my new m35a2

[HN6]

Lockers installed in both rear axles, all seals replaced and new brake cylinders. New to me air T-case installed took 3 tries with little mistakes... ugh

Now the difference with pics of a air tcase and a sprag. The previous owner also rigged a manual engagement for the sprag. I just figured it all out after talking to Gary and he cleared the confusion for me. Wasn't sure what the extra lever was for as I am learning..

photos are labeled with tape trying to explain and show for others... The photo on the tranny shows where the linkage connects from Tcase to transmission for engagement. That was bypassed with the added lever for manual engagement of the sprag..

Please correct me if I am wrong in my new found knowledge

 

[71DeuceAK]

Thank you for sharing these photos!

 

[cattlerepairman]

There actually was a kit available in years past for the manual engagement of the sprag case that, from what I hear, worked really well and was very popular. It was produced by one of the then leading MV refurbishers. Maybe what you have is one of these?

 

[HN6]

There actually was a kit available in years past for the manual engagement of the sprag case that, from what I hear, worked really well and was very popular. It was produced by one of the then leading MV refurbishers. Maybe what you have is one of these?

The welding and bolt set up was kind of a hack job, but now that I know what it was doing.. very easy set up for sure.

 

[cattlerepairman]

It prompted me to refresh my memory and indeed, there was a REB kit made by Memphis Equipment which removed the sprag overrun by using gear wheels with more teeth and adding the manual engagement: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/reb-kit.13496/

 

[HN6]

I took this item off my other tcase because the one on the air case was froze up.. tried cleaning and lubing but the gear inside would not move. Also, the one that came on the air tcase had an added grease zero.. not sure why. Isn't this oil fed? The o ring in the coupler from hose fell out so I replaced with a o-ring similar size not sure if this will work properly and if not do I have to replace the entire line since it has that cable running up the inside?

Added primary spin on filter as well.

 

[Dipstick]

I took this item off my other tcase because the one on the air case was froze up.. tried cleaning and lubing but the gear inside would not move. Also, the one that came on the air tcase had an added grease zero.. not sure why. Isn't this oil fed? The o ring in the coupler from hose fell out so I replaced with a o-ring similar size not sure if this will work properly and if not do I have to replace the entire line since it has that cable running up the inside?

Added primary spin on filter as well.

That's the speedometer drive. It looks like you need a new speedometer cable too. The outer covering has to be intact to protect the inner drive cable and it's jacket from corrosion. One of the earliest repairs I made on my Deuce was replacing both the tach and speedo cables because the gauges were behaving erratically. As far as lubrication goes I think it's grease on the external portion of the drive and oil where the drive goes into the transfer case. The spin on fuel filter is a great modification, but spin on oil filters are even better. With them your oil pressure will come up much faster. Hope this helps you.

 

[Dipstick]

https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/air-shift-service-before-swap-m35a2.198709/#post-2316284

I hope I did this right. Above is a link to a post I made concerning the transfer case air shift cylinder. I had to replace mine. The symptom was a huge, rushing air leak whenever I attempted to engage the front axle. I discovered that all of the air was dumping out of the transfer case vent. The cause was a scored piston and cylinder which also damaged the o-ring that seals the piston to the bore. Just something to keep in mind.

 

[HN6]

https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/air-shift-service-before-swap-m35a2.198709/#post-2316284

I hope I did this right. Above is a link to a post I made concerning the transfer case air shift cylinder. I had to replace mine. The symptom was a huge, rushing air leak whenever I attempted to engage the front axle. I discovered that all of the air was dumping out of the transfer case vent. The cause was a scored piston and cylinder which also damaged the o-ring that seals the piston to the bore. Just something to keep in mind.

Thanks for the link. I never came across that in my searches for things to do before swapping. Luckily I put air to it just to listen and watch before install and I even pulled that cap to have a look. All looked nice, clean and acted functional.

 

[Dipstick]

Thanks for the link. I never came across that in my searches for things to do before swapping. Luckily I put air to it just to listen and watch before install and I even pulled that cap to have a look. All looked nice, clean and acted functional.

Good job inspecting it. I'm glad you found my post useful. In my case, I think it was due to decades of moisture in my compressed air causing the steel cylinder bore to corrode. That corrosion also scored the piston and o-ring. It was a very loud air leak. Impossible not to hear it even with the engine running. It's not hard to replace or repair it at all. I would think about changing your speedo drive cable though. I changed my tach cable at the same time as my speedo. My tack needle was erratic and sort of bouncing around.

 

[HN6]

Replaced all brake lines except for front axle. Had some little droplets of oil coming out of one of the hard lines along with the brake fluid.. What should I look into or rebuild? Going on week 2 of working on this truck and it is slow going!

Drained and cleaned the fuel tank.... didn't really need it but I thought it did check that off the list.

 

[NY Tom]

Hydraulic Head O-Rings might be worth changing.
You could check the cold weather starting solenoid if you have one. Mine started leaking externally. Needed new O-Rings.
Maybe U-Joints and all the seals coming out of the transfer case and axles? Most of mine started leaking nicely once I began taking it on longer drives.

 

[HN6]

Hydraulic Head O-Rings might be worth changing.
You could check the cold weather starting solenoid if you have one. Mine started leaking externally. Needed new O-Rings.
Maybe U-Joints and all the seals coming out of the transfer case and axles? Most of mine started leaking nicely once I began taking it on longer drives.

I have replaced all axle seals and grease. Haven't messed with the hydraulic head.

 

[NY Tom]

You did the pinion seals up top on the axles as well? Those ended up being worse than the wheel bearing seals on mine.

 

[Godspeed131]

Funny you say that, I recently replaced all axle seals in mine except the pinion seals and last week on a 100 mile trip the front pinion seal started leaking, lucky I got new ones with the axle seals so no big deal. That’ll be the next fix for me.

 

[NY Tom]

Yes they make a real mess too when they leak...
I have to do over the transfer case rear output - something did not go right I guess and it still leaks.
Wish it was one of the easier ones. Hate fighting with that parking brake assembly...
It took a 100 mile drive to really get my truck leaking too - LOL. Magic number I guess.

 

[Dipstick]

Yes they make a real mess too when they leak...
I have to do over the transfer case rear output - something did not go right I guess and it still leaks.
Wish it was one of the easier ones. Hate fighting with that parking brake assembly...
It took a 100 mile drive to really get my truck leaking too - LOL. Magic number I guess.

NY you really have to watch your T-case and transmission vents to make sure they are not stuck in the down/closed position. They can make a small leak much worse. I know from personal experience. The parking brake assembly is one of the easier things to fix on a Deuce. I redid mine including a new handbrake cable (the real culprit). I have some pics of the handbrake cable replacement and some tips I will gladly offer you when you get around to doing it.

 

[NY Tom]

Good call I have to check those vents. Just did not get to it yet. Seems a likely source to my problem.
I did the whole parking brake too. New cable and shoes the whole nine. Had to pull shims out to set the shaft clearance on the t-case too at that time.
I used the seal which I had gotten from one supplier for the axle pinion seals where the lip protrudes.
The right seal is fatter and will fit in the housing better. My mistake on that.
Getting pretty happy with this truck though. All the work I have done has gone pretty well and I am confident it will take me where I need to go at any time.

 

[Dipstick]

Good call I have to check those vents. Just did not get to it yet. Seems a likely source to my problem.
I did the whole parking brake too. New cable and shoes the whole nine. Had to pull shims out to set the shaft clearance on the t-case too at that time.
I used the seal which I had gotten from one supplier for the axle pinion seals where the lip protrudes.
The right seal is fatter and will fit in the housing better. My mistake on that.
Getting pretty happy with this truck though. All the work I have done has gone pretty well and I am confident it will take me where I need to go at any time.

Ok. Good to know. I got 70 miles into a trip to N.Y. State when I discovered my rear axle was blowing gear oil all over the place. The vent was stuck and the heat in the axle causes the air to expand pressurizing the oil past the seals. I recently did the hose barb and tubing thing on my axles. The T-case and tranny vents are next. Those vents S@CK!

 

[NY Tom]

Yes I had removed those axle vents and cleaned them and thought they were OK a while back. Then one day I was checking the gear oil level and when I cracked loose the plug I could hear the air escaping. I did all the axle vents the same way with tubing brought to the firewall. Honestly I did not know the t-case and trans had these vents too until reading another thread in this forum. Wish they were easier to get to.