My new project (M1009)

[_Aragorn_7]

OK from my view I am seeing a normal 6.2 diesel idling. Now slowly increase the RPM's and see if that belt stops bouncing, and everything aligns harmonically. That has been my experience. I had guys open the oil cap at idle and tell me the engine had excessive blow by. Then I would accelerate a little and the blow by was gone. At idle that 6.2 diesel is a rattle trap and makes fuel doors vibrate and will create all sorts of vibrations. No worries. Have a Great Day.

You are spot on. Raised the RPMs and it smoothed out perfectly. Thanks!

 

[_Aragorn_7]

After learning that the vaibration on the crank pulley is normal at idle. I finished changing the fluids and took it for its first test drive (other than just around the block). It ran beautifully, other than it never shifted to 3rd. So i guess the next thing is to work on the vacuum system and get it aligned.

 

[GunnyM1009]

After learning that the vaibration on the crank pulley is normal at idle. I finished changing the fluids and took it for its first test drive (other than just around the block). It ran beautifully, other than it never shifted to 3rd. So i guess the next thing is to work on the vacuum system and get it aligned.

Awesome love seeing a build come together

 

[_Aragorn_7]

I replaced all of the rubber vacuum lines in the engine bay and pump sucks pretty good. But it still does not shift into 3rd until 50mph. So the next thing i will do is double check the little rubber line on the transmission and then bypass the modulator on the injection pump. My understanding is that will make it shift as soon and softly as possible. Please correct me if i am wrong.

Also tested the cold advance/high idle. It never turned off after 3 miles of hilly driving, so i guess the sensor is bad. The only one i can find is on ebay and is over $100. Is that normal? If that is i will probably just wire in a switch.

 

[ezgn]

I replaced all of the rubber vacuum lines in the engine bay and pump sucks pretty good. But it still does not shift into 3rd until 50mph. So the next thing i will do is double check the little rubber line on the transmission and then bypass the modulator on the injection pump. My understanding is that will make it shift as soon and softly as possible. Please correct me if i am wrong.

Also tested the cold advance/high idle. It never turned off after 3 miles of hilly driving, so i guess the sensor is bad. The only one i can find is on ebay and is over $100. Is that normal? If that is i will probably just wire in a switch.

Have you adjusted the VCV valve on your Injection pump. Two nuts holding the valve to the Injection pump. Loosen the nut and move the valve either forward towards the firewall for lower shifts and towards the radiator for higher shifts. If you can find cold advance switch for $100 I would buy it. Just make sure it is the right one. Where did you find one?

 

[Keith_J]

The cold high idle plus timing advance is a normally closed thermal switch. Much like a coolant thermostat, it uses a wax motor which on melting, expands. In this case, the expansion opens the switch. It can fail, the smallest leak of wax will keep contacts closed.

Rock Auto has them for 58 dollars.

On the transmission control, delayed shifts mean vacuum leak or non operational vacuum control valve. High vacuum means low engine load or closed throttle. The vacuum control valve is no longer made so be careful. New old stock are over 100 dollars, Hillbilly Wizard probably has a few working units for sale.

Idle speed is hardest on the engine vibration. This is why the top radiator hose clamp has a stainless guard to protect the hose. Belts only last 20k miles or two years, which ever comes first. Too tight and you risk bearing failure. Too loose and they jump.

 

[ssdvc]

I had this same issue with my trans. You may find this thread helpful:

Trans Shift Points

OK, I replaced my vacuum pump and vacuum hoses the other day. Before I did this, my trans shift at 17mph (1st to 2nd) and 32mph (2nd to 3rd). After installing the new vacuum head, shift point are 30mph (1st to 2nd) and I have gotten up to 45+mph and she won't shift into 3rd. I have moved the...

steelsoldiers.com

 

[german m1008]

I replaced all of the rubber vacuum lines in the engine bay and pump sucks pretty good. But it still does not shift into 3rd until 50mph. So the next thing i will do is double check the little rubber line on the transmission and then bypass the modulator on the injection pump. My understanding is that will make it shift as soon and softly as possible. Please correct me if i am wrong.

Also tested the cold advance/high idle. It never turned off after 3 miles of hilly driving, so i guess the sensor is bad. The only one i can find is on ebay and is over $100. Is that normal? If that is i will probably just wire in a switch.

at about 50 miles......that sounds like the forced shift point.
If so, then I think it's not a matter of setting the VCR valve.
……..a really stupid question ………. are the vacuum hoses attached correctly to the VCR valve or are they perhaps mixed up?

 

[Keith_J]

Top tube to transmission.

 

[_Aragorn_7]

at about 50 miles......that sounds like the forced shift point.
If so, then I think it's not a matter of setting the VCR valve.
……..a really stupid question ………. are the vacuum hoses attached correctly to the VCR valve or are they perhaps mixed up?

Here are how mine are connected.

 

[_Aragorn_7]

Here are my vacuum readings. The guage stays nice and steady.

After the valve. I moved the valve towards the firewall and now it reads 8"Hg




Before the valve (measuring the pump)

 

[Keith_J]

Vacuum pump is good, anything over 22 inches of Hg under 8000 feet elevation is good.

Now, 8 inches Hg at idle is suspect. Needs to be at least 18" Hg at idle. Is the gauge connection direct to the VRV nipple or do you have a tee into the line?

This transmission was designed to work behind a carburetored gasoline engine where manifold pressure was used to infer engine load.

 

[_Aragorn_7]

I tested the vacuum down at the transmission, it was only reading 4"hg. Blew the steel line out with compressed air and pressure tested it. Remeasured and now get 8-9"hg. Test drove it and shifts into 3rd between 30-40mph, depending on throttle input. Yay!

That seems normal to me but i could be wrong since i have nothing to compare to. When should it kick down a gear/s when floored?

 

[_Aragorn_7]

The cold high idle plus timing advance is a normally closed thermal switch. Much like a coolant thermostat, it uses a wax motor which on melting, expands. In this case, the expansion opens the switch. It can fail, the smallest leak of wax will keep contacts closed.

Rock Auto has them for 58 dollars.

On the transmission control, delayed shifts mean vacuum leak or non operational vacuum control valve. High vacuum means low engine load or closed throttle. The vacuum control valve is no longer made so be careful. New old stock are over 100 dollars, Hillbilly Wizard probably has a few working units for sale.

Idle speed is hardest on the engine vibration. This is why the top radiator hose clamp has a stainless guard to protect the hose. Belts only last 20k miles or two years, which ever comes first. Too tight and you risk bearing failure. Too loose and they jump.

I have searched Rockauto and have not found the high idle sensor. Can you post a link?

 

[Keith_J]

Thm400 has a centrifugal governor on passenger side which is biased by a vacuum signal. If this governor leaks, the transmission will shift at higher speeds. There is also a wide open throttle switch near the accelerator pedal which forces a kick down shift if the governor speed has not been reached.

You need to make certain there is no leak in the vacuum system from the VRV to the transmission. A Mity Vac hand pump with gauge is your best tool for this testing. The transmission modulator is easy to replace and cheap. Since you are a secondary owner, the modulator may have been replaced. Some are adjustable. Good info on Rock Auto.

For the cold start switch:

1988 CHEVROLET K2500 PICKUP 6.2L 379cid V8 DIESEL Cold Start Valve Temperature Switch | Shop Now at RockAuto

Electrical-Switch & Relay Parts and More for Your 1988 CHEVROLET K2500 PICKUP at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[Keith_J]

For a M1009 with 3.08 ratio axles, light throttle shifting to 3rd between 30 and 40 is about right.
The modulator also controls clutch hydraulic pressure which is shift firmness. Too soft can wear out clutch facings.

 

[Keith_J]

Digging around, I found at least one person making VRVs for Ford 6.9 IDI. This engine uses the same injection pump as the 6.2 Detroit, only it spins opposite direction. The C6 Ford transmission uses a similar vacuum modulation.

I thought about using an electric TPS (GM 10137417 ) to drive a PWM vacuum solenoid (VW 1J0906627A). Circuitry is very simple and adjustable for nearly any performance needed.

I'm using these parts for another vacuum control. Still working on it but eventually will have variable geometry turbos on my 6.2. Yes, small twin turbos. Why? Being small, they package neatly next to the engine without making glow plug replacement an all day task. Being next to the engine, they spool fast and early. Being VGT, they don't choke the exhaust at high speed. But they require a complex control system. High vacuum closes the vanes, increasing exhaust gas velocity tangentially to the turbine. Opening the vanes is done by reducing vacuum to the actuator, this increases exhaust gas flow rate while reducing turbine energy capture.

 

[_Aragorn_7]

Well, I have been driving the M1009 for a while now (3 tanks worth) and has been pretty smooth but not flawless. The 1st issue was i lost the 2nd alternator. I figure i would try the DB electrical alternator since the starter has been good so far (and it was a lot cheaper than Hillbilly Wizard). It fit good and the pulley was the right size for my belt. However when i started the truck sparks shot out of the alternator. Not sure why, but the alternator still works and regulates at 14.6v. So i guess we'll see how long it will last.

I then got tired of driving in silence (or as silent as a M1009 can be). So i build a stereo system for it.




I didn't want to drill any speaker holes in the truck so i used 2 50 cal ammo boxes and used 160lb (40lbs each) neodymium magnets to hold them to the wheel wells.





I saw other people were using 30mm ammo cans as center consoles and i decided to do the same. I put the stereo inside the can and made a circuit system for buttons on the lid based on Ford's Sync steering controls.



The stupid drill bit walked on me while i was drilling the center button, but luckily it is hard to notice in the driver's seat.

The only thing i am a little concerned with currently is the alternator 1 voltage regulator. With the headlights and heater on it sits at 14.5v but with everything off i have seen it hit 15v. It will everntually come down on its own, but takes over 10min of driving. Is that a concern? Are the regulators adjustable?