goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
I also lowered the liftgate and took some picture of the inside of the box.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
My replacement XM820e2 recovery and modification thread
- Thread starter goldneagle
- Start date
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Had some trouble starting the truck. I had been running it in place to use the liftgate to load drums of oil into the box. Ended up borrowing the fuel filter bowl and cartridge from my spare M923 truck since I didn't have any spare filters in stock. Got her running again! Left the 24 volt battery charger on for 6 hours to recharge the batteries.
That night I stated to research fuel filter bases and spin-on fuel/water separators. Ended up ordering a Wix 24770 Filter Mounting Base for $28 and a Wix 33439 Spin-On Fuel and Water Separator Filter for $21. The base has four 1/2" NPT ports (2in and 2 out) Hopefully is will mount as easy as the CAT filter assembly I added to my M931. If it works I will upgrade my other two 5 ton trucks the same way.
I also ordered oil filter adapters and filters for my 5 ton trucks. This way all the filters will be spin-ons.
That night I stated to research fuel filter bases and spin-on fuel/water separators. Ended up ordering a Wix 24770 Filter Mounting Base for $28 and a Wix 33439 Spin-On Fuel and Water Separator Filter for $21. The base has four 1/2" NPT ports (2in and 2 out) Hopefully is will mount as easy as the CAT filter assembly I added to my M931. If it works I will upgrade my other two 5 ton trucks the same way.
I also ordered oil filter adapters and filters for my 5 ton trucks. This way all the filters will be spin-ons.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Yesterday I scraped the writing off the 2 windshields. I installed 2 ANCO wiper assemblies to replace the old style windshield wiper assemblies.
I also managed to drill and install the 2 additional bolts to the base of the springer set that I had installed on the passenger side.
I also managed to drill and install the 2 additional bolts to the base of the springer set that I had installed on the passenger side.
srodocker
Well-known member
- 6,549
- 69
- 48
- Location
- Lacey, Washington
Love your build threads. Those part #'s you posted are for spin on kits for your 250 correct? Been saving #'s for a spin on conversion. I also like your visor idea.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Yes those are for the fuel filter spin on conversion on the Cummins 250 engine trucks. Untested but should work. Thank you for the compliment.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Since it was raining today I didn't have much time to spend on my M820e2 project. I did manage to install a vinyl coated steel cable to lock the steering wheel in order to deter theft. I also borrowed a door weatherstrip from my soft top frame to replace the missing piece on my passenger side door. I also decided to remove the super heavy duty power cable that was wound on a spool under the back box. It is used to supply 3 phase electric power to the box in back. It is 4/2 conductor with those barrel plugs on the ends. Looks like it has never been used! I was nervous having it on the truck due to possible theft. I don't plan to use it with the truck anyway. I may use the cable to connect my 42KW diesel generator to the house for power. Right now i have a 50 amp cable for that purpose.
I also came up with a quick list of things I need to do for the truck in the very near future:
Remote Brake Fluid Reservoir
Bypass Coolant Filter
Fuel Filter Upgrade
Oil Filter Upgrade
Change Oil
Kill Switch?
Mud flaps replaced
Cab light
I also came up with a quick list of things I need to do for the truck in the very near future:
Remote Brake Fluid Reservoir
Bypass Coolant Filter
Fuel Filter Upgrade
Oil Filter Upgrade
Change Oil
Kill Switch?
Mud flaps replaced
Cab light
srodocker
Well-known member
- 6,549
- 69
- 48
- Location
- Lacey, Washington
I just installed this kill switch. Works well
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keyed-Maste...=Model:250+Europa&hash=item460f084e30&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keyed-Maste...=Model:250+Europa&hash=item460f084e30&vxp=mtr
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Thank you for the info. I have 2 brand new CAT versions of that kill switch in stock. I already installed one in my M923 a year or so ago. Hopefully you used it on the ground side of the circuit.
wdbtchr
New member
- 883
- 3
- 0
- Location
- St. Louis, MO
Curious why you would put it in the ground side? I always though it went in the hot side.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
It was discussed before here in other threads. I do not remember the reasoning. But the consensus was that it should be on the ground side. I rerouted the ground from the NATO receptacle to the switch as well. Here is how I did it on the M923: There are 2 wires on one side of the cut-off switch (1 from the NATO receptacle ground and 1 from the chassis ground) The other terminal of the switch has 1 wire going to the battery negative terminal.
On the M820 the NATO receptacle ground wire already goes to the chassis ground bolt so I only need 1 wire on each side of the switch.
Last edited:
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Yesterday in-between raindrops I decided to replace the 2 torn off mudflaps in front of the middle axle. Looks like the tires drove over them going over a curb or something tall. (mudflap got caught between the object and the tire). I had some conveyor belt material that I got from a member at the GA rally. I cut the material to match the mudflaps on the rear axle. While in the process of installing the mudflap on the driver's side, I noticed that the conveyor belt material i was using as a mat on the ground was not water proof. It was allowing water to seep in where my knees were pressing on it. I decided to finish installing the conveyer belt mud flap anyway. I think it will still serve it's purpose. It will be interesting to see if any water makes it through the material.
I do have the option of spraying the mudflap with that rubber spray they advertize on TV.
I was planning on using the conveyor belt material to make some floor mats in my M931 truck. I wonder if it will work better as is or with the bottom sprayed with rubber. I need to experiment with the material to see how easily water gets through it. Maybe having a floor mat that breaths will be better for allowing any trapped water under it to evaporate. I know some of the truck floor pans rust out due to water being trapped under the floor mats. i would love to get some member opinion on the subject.
I do have the option of spraying the mudflap with that rubber spray they advertize on TV.
I was planning on using the conveyor belt material to make some floor mats in my M931 truck. I wonder if it will work better as is or with the bottom sprayed with rubber. I need to experiment with the material to see how easily water gets through it. Maybe having a floor mat that breaths will be better for allowing any trapped water under it to evaporate. I know some of the truck floor pans rust out due to water being trapped under the floor mats. i would love to get some member opinion on the subject.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Today I managed to get another project out of the way. I got the fuel filter setup upgraded to spin-on filter assembly. I purchased a WIX filter base and filter from AMAZON.com. It had 1/2" NPT intake and output and 1-14" center stem. The WIX filter I got is rated 14 micron fuel/water separator. The cartridge in the stock fuel filter housing is rated 12 micron.
Since the fittings on the old filter housing do not fit the new one I had to find some fittings that would allow me to connect the existing fuel lines to the new filter housing. I went to NAPA but the local store does not have a good collection of fittings. I then tried a Heating A/C supply house but they did not carry brass fittings either. Went to Home Depot and found what I needed. Only glitch was I had to replace the connector on the copper line coming from the fuel tank with a flare fitting.
At this point I had already removed the old fuel filter housing from the truck. I Used a was to cut the copper line just behind the old fitting. I then used a pipe cutter to re-cut the copper line cleanly. I inserted the 1/2" flare nut over the copper tube. I pushed the fitting far enough so I could get the flaring tool attached to the pipe. Once I had the flare done I attached the 1/2" by 4" brass pipe to the new filter housing. I attached the flare adapter at the end of the pipe. I attached the copper tubing to the flare end. I then installed a 1/2" NPT by 5/8" flare at the output end of the filter base.
Once I had the fittings attached I was able to mark the drill holes of the filter base with the backing plate attached to the truck. Once marked I drilled the holes for the mounting bolts. I then mounted the new filter base to the truck. I had to remove one bolt that held the fuel hose clamp to the truck frame. Then I was able to get a little slack on the fuel hose to reach the new fuel filter housing. I connected the fuel hose to the flare fitting and tightened. I then filled the new fuel filter with fresh diesel and attached it to the filter housing. I tightened the clamp on the fuel hose to the frame. I started up the truck to test the new filter assembly. After 2 starting attempts the truck ran fine. I let it run a bit and all seemed well. No leaks in the new setup. Here are some pictures of the setup
.
Since the fittings on the old filter housing do not fit the new one I had to find some fittings that would allow me to connect the existing fuel lines to the new filter housing. I went to NAPA but the local store does not have a good collection of fittings. I then tried a Heating A/C supply house but they did not carry brass fittings either. Went to Home Depot and found what I needed. Only glitch was I had to replace the connector on the copper line coming from the fuel tank with a flare fitting.
At this point I had already removed the old fuel filter housing from the truck. I Used a was to cut the copper line just behind the old fitting. I then used a pipe cutter to re-cut the copper line cleanly. I inserted the 1/2" flare nut over the copper tube. I pushed the fitting far enough so I could get the flaring tool attached to the pipe. Once I had the flare done I attached the 1/2" by 4" brass pipe to the new filter housing. I attached the flare adapter at the end of the pipe. I attached the copper tubing to the flare end. I then installed a 1/2" NPT by 5/8" flare at the output end of the filter base.
Once I had the fittings attached I was able to mark the drill holes of the filter base with the backing plate attached to the truck. Once marked I drilled the holes for the mounting bolts. I then mounted the new filter base to the truck. I had to remove one bolt that held the fuel hose clamp to the truck frame. Then I was able to get a little slack on the fuel hose to reach the new fuel filter housing. I connected the fuel hose to the flare fitting and tightened. I then filled the new fuel filter with fresh diesel and attached it to the filter housing. I tightened the clamp on the fuel hose to the frame. I started up the truck to test the new filter assembly. After 2 starting attempts the truck ran fine. I let it run a bit and all seemed well. No leaks in the new setup. Here are some pictures of the setup
.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Tried to make it to the auto repair shop to get some work done on my truck, but could not get the truck started. After testing the fuel lines and connections I tried to pressurize the fuel tank. Still no luck starting the truck! Since I was getting fuel the IP but just a trickle on the return line I decided to check the fuel shut-off on the IP. The emergency shut-off lever was positioned properly. Next I tried to turn the screw that opened the fuel flow to the IP. Tried to start the truck and success, the truck started. Had to use the emergency shut-off to turn off the truck. Unscrewed the bypass screw and tested again. Truck did not start! So the problem was that the fuel shut-off solenoid was not functioning. Turned the screw in again to get the truck started.
Had my mechanic friend help do an oil change and spin-on oil filter upgrade. We also installed a remote brake fluid reservoir in the cab of the truck. Got the kit from one of our members.
When I got home I noticed there was 1/2 the reservoir empty already. When I looked under the truck i saw brake fluid dripping down. I checked the top of the master cylinder to see if we messed up the upgrade. The top was dry with no sign of leaking. So it looks like I need to rebuild the master cylinder or replace it.
As far as the IP shut-off solenoid, I will test it tomorrow to see if it is defective or the start switch is going bad. If I have 24 volts at the solenoid but the truck does not start then it it the solenoid. If no power present then it's the start switch.
I wonder if the solenoid is serviceable? I have a keyed start switch I can replace the existing switch if that is the issue.
Had my mechanic friend help do an oil change and spin-on oil filter upgrade. We also installed a remote brake fluid reservoir in the cab of the truck. Got the kit from one of our members.
When I got home I noticed there was 1/2 the reservoir empty already. When I looked under the truck i saw brake fluid dripping down. I checked the top of the master cylinder to see if we messed up the upgrade. The top was dry with no sign of leaking. So it looks like I need to rebuild the master cylinder or replace it.
As far as the IP shut-off solenoid, I will test it tomorrow to see if it is defective or the start switch is going bad. If I have 24 volts at the solenoid but the truck does not start then it it the solenoid. If no power present then it's the start switch.
I wonder if the solenoid is serviceable? I have a keyed start switch I can replace the existing switch if that is the issue.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
A bit more progress today. I installed the coolant bypass filter assembly on my truck. I installed one on all my truck to keep the rust floating in the coolant down to a minimal.
I also tested the solenoid fuel shot off and found that it was the solenoid not the switch that is not functioning properly. Now I have to decide if I can fix the solenoid that works intermittently or just replace it. Any suggestions?
I also tested the solenoid fuel shot off and found that it was the solenoid not the switch that is not functioning properly. Now I have to decide if I can fix the solenoid that works intermittently or just replace it. Any suggestions?
Attachments
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Today I tinkered around a bit with the fuel shutoff solenoid but it is still not cooperating. I also checked the brake master cylinder and it is definitely leaking. Looks like I am buying new replacements for them Monday.
I also checked the coolant in the radiator. It was nasty with lots of rust in it! So i went to ADVANCE AUTO and got some new anti-freeze for the truck. I dumped the old anti-freeze and starting flushing the cooling system. It took forever to get most of the rust out of the system! I ran the truck so I could keep the water circulating and get the rust out. Probably used a few hundred gallons of water to flush the system. I then added new coolant and water and ran the engine to make sure the cooling system was full. I then opened the valves to the bypass coolant filter to let it clean the cooling system. Another project out of the way!
I also checked the coolant in the radiator. It was nasty with lots of rust in it! So i went to ADVANCE AUTO and got some new anti-freeze for the truck. I dumped the old anti-freeze and starting flushing the cooling system. It took forever to get most of the rust out of the system! I ran the truck so I could keep the water circulating and get the rust out. Probably used a few hundred gallons of water to flush the system. I then added new coolant and water and ran the engine to make sure the cooling system was full. I then opened the valves to the bypass coolant filter to let it clean the cooling system. Another project out of the way!
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Got the new master cylinder and solenoid valve for the truck late this afternoon. Will try to install them Saturday.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Saturday I started to work on replacing my leaking master cylinder with the new one I ordered from ERIK'S Military Surplus. I removed the skid plate from the bottom of the hydro-boost. Got 3 bolts off the master cylinder and could not get the 4th that was near the frame on the top. I decided to go get a neighbor to help with the last bolt. I rotated on to left elbow to scoot out from under the truck and my whole world started to spin. I flipped on to my belly and held on to the ground until the Earth stopped spinning! **** that was scary! Once I was on my feet everything was ok again. Vertigo is no fun!
I had my friend do the rest of the replacement with me assisting from above. Got everything back together and the master cylinder bled. Started up the truck and pumped the brakes. Got the brakes working good. Will test them again before I go on the road.
Sunday I managed to replace the fuel control valve on the IP. The old one was not opening when needed and I was unable to start the truck due to the malfunction. New one works great! Now I can take the truck on the road safely.
I had my friend do the rest of the replacement with me assisting from above. Got everything back together and the master cylinder bled. Started up the truck and pumped the brakes. Got the brakes working good. Will test them again before I go on the road.
Sunday I managed to replace the fuel control valve on the IP. The old one was not opening when needed and I was unable to start the truck due to the malfunction. New one works great! Now I can take the truck on the road safely.
- 1,577
- 139
- 63
- Location
- Norwood LA
Glad it's starting reliably again!
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Took the truck to Hattisburg, MS Monday to drop off barrels of UMO and my refinery at Jeff's place. Then I went to the storage yard to pick up some parts...Truck ran great for the 80 mile trip. When I tried to restart the truck it would not fire. We went through the usual troubleshooting. After pressurizing the fuel tank several times we saw a slow leak coming out of the main rubber fuel line going from the filter to the IP. I called Trailboss and asked if I could borrow a fuel line from his M818 so I could get home. It was very nice of Doug to allow me to use his fuel line to repair my truck.
I got home safely, but I lost the 2 fan belts going to the fan. Lucky for me the truck ran cool enough without the fan running.
I ordered 2 new fans belts from NAPA that arrived Friday.
I got home safely, but I lost the 2 fan belts going to the fan. Lucky for me the truck ran cool enough without the fan running.
I ordered 2 new fans belts from NAPA that arrived Friday.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,537
- 1,067
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
I picked up the new fan belts as well as new fuel hose from NAPA today. I was able to reuse the original fittings with the new hose. Installation went easy. When I was going to remove the borrowed hose i noticed that one of the flare fittings was cracked. I went to NAPA to get a new fitting and hose for Doug. NAPA did not have the right fitting. I think I found the correct fitting on AMAZON.com. I ordered it and it should be here on Tuesday.
If it is the correct fitting I will get a new hose from NAPA and assemble a new fuel hose for Doug's truck.
Now for the hard work. Took hours to get thee new fan belts installed on the fan. The measurement was so tight that we had a heck of a time trying to get them on the pulley. But after a couple of hours we got everything buttoned up. Next time I may try the next size belts.
If it is the correct fitting I will get a new hose from NAPA and assemble a new fuel hose for Doug's truck.
Now for the hard work. Took hours to get thee new fan belts installed on the fan. The measurement was so tight that we had a heck of a time trying to get them on the pulley. But after a couple of hours we got everything buttoned up. Next time I may try the next size belts.
Last edited: