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Navy 5 ton, shovel mount?

Ajax MD

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When you go to service the steering axle (which you should do promptly), don't use a hammer and screwdriver to remove the spindle nuts. Do yourself a favor and buy the proper spindle nut sockets. Just Google "spindle nut socket" with the sizes shown below:

4-3/8" 8 sided, and a 4-7/8" 8 sided. You can find them online, they are made by OTC. Usually cost between $25-$30 each.
I bought a massive, Snap-On torque wrench off eBay for a very affordable price. This'll get your torque values correct when you reinstall the spindle nuts. If you're really particular, you can get it calibrated or at least tested on a Snap-On truck.
 

Ajax MD

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I am working on a tool and spare list to keep in the truck. Thankfully there are two rather nice compartments for just that use behind the cab. That air hose to gladhand adapter is COOL!
Right. The dumper tool box is behind the cab. On the cargo truck, the tool box is on the side, aft of the battery box. You'll put your smaller tool box of ratchets, wrenches and junk in this big, BII tool box.
 

SandBar

Full Time Patriot
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GA/FL
When you go to service the steering axle (which you should do promptly), don't use a hammer and screwdriver to remove the spindle nuts. Do yourself a favor and buy the proper spindle nut sockets. Just Google "spindle nut socket" with the sizes shown below:



I bought a massive, Snap-On torque wrench off eBay for a very affordable price. This'll get your torque values correct when you reinstall the spindle nuts. If you're really particular, you can get it calibrated or at least tested on a Snap-On truck.
By this you mean new wheel cylinders, and axle seals? I have yet to find an all inclusive post detailing what I should do to fully service all the axles.
 

Recovry4x4

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Glad you found your pioneer tool rack. Is it actually bolted to something? As far as front axle service all inclusive post, you can find that info in the TM too.

Regarding air hoses. I have the inflator hose in my box along with a regular air hose to run other items. I got tired of packing both so I just put a quick coupler on a glad hand and then use the same hose for everything. Another thing, if anyone plans on running a large impact off of that, it's not going to work too well. There isn't enough flow through the small hose and not enough air storage. The solution is an air pig. Purchase a standard portable air tank. Add a half inch tee to it and a length of 1/2" air hose. You can charge this with your small hose and it will give you the volume and flow to run a 1" impact from the 1/2" hose. You will have to wait to build pressure back but it gives you the volume and flow to get stubborn lug nuts off.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
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When you go to service the steering axle (which you should do promptly), don't use a hammer and screwdriver to remove the spindle nuts. Do yourself a favor and buy the proper spindle nut sockets. Just Google "spindle nut socket" with the sizes shown below:



I bought a massive, Snap-On torque wrench off eBay for a very affordable price. This'll get your torque values correct when you reinstall the spindle nuts. If you're really particular, you can get it calibrated or at least tested on a Snap-On truck.
So, there are 2 different size spindle nuts on the M39 series 5 tons? I have one for a deuce, need them for the 5 ton.
 

SandBar

Full Time Patriot
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Glad you found your pioneer tool rack. Is it actually bolted to something? As far as front axle service all inclusive post, you can find that info in the TM too.

Regarding air hoses. I have the inflator hose in my box along with a regular air hose to run other items. I got tired of packing both so I just put a quick coupler on a glad hand and then use the same hose for everything. Another thing, if anyone plans on running a large impact off of that, it's not going to work too well. There isn't enough flow through the small hose and not enough air storage. The solution is an air pig. Purchase a standard portable air tank. Add a half inch tee to it and a length of 1/2" air hose. You can charge this with your small hose and it will give you the volume and flow to run a 1" impact from the 1/2" hose. You will have to wait to build pressure back but it gives you the volume and flow to get stubborn lug nuts off.
Welded to the big storage box behind the cab in plain sight 😀 Is this the normal location?
 

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Ajax MD

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So, there are 2 different size spindle nuts on the M39 series 5 tons? I have one for a deuce, need them for the 5 ton.
On M39, M809 and at least the earlier M939's, there two spindle nuts on each spindle, which act as jam nuts (an inner and an outer). They are two different sizes. (See Items #1 and #3.)

spindle.jpg
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
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Mayo, MD
By this you mean new wheel cylinders, and axle seals? I have yet to find an all inclusive post detailing what I should do to fully service all the axles.
Well, "inspect" might be a better term. Pull the front wheels off and inspect the wheel cylinders for leakage and rust. Inspect the shoes for remaining pad material, replace if necessary. Inspect for broken or missing brake shoe springs. If they're all fine, no need to replace them.

Also, remove and re-pack the wheel bearings. They will surely need it. A seized wheel bearing on the steering axle could lead to a major accident. When you pull all this apart, you'll be able to tell if the axle seals are leaking. If they're not, then just let it be. Back to the wheel bearings: I did mine by hand. It's easy.

One way to help keep the axle seals from blowing out, is to ensure that your axle vent is clear to breathe. When they get corroded and plugged up, positive pressure builds up in the axle on hot days and hard driving conditions and can cause the axle seal to leak. You're in Florida. It's hot there, I hear. ;)

Finally, inspect and replace (if necessary) the steering knuckle boots. You can see these by getting under the front of the truck and looking at the inside of the wheel. If you have grease flying all over the inside of the tire and you see torn rubber, the boot is shot. The vendors all sell zip-up boots with large, metal zippers that are easy to install. Slather some sealant on the zipper when you zip them up and they'll be fairly water proof.

Here's a great thread that can help you out with the steering axle:

Also, there are some Youtube videos. @simp5782 made some of them. He *is* the "5-ton Whisperer."

The bottom line is this: It's not a Honda Civic, it's a 5-ton truck with single circuit brakes. I'm not trying to suck the joy out of the hobby but we do have a responsibility to keep the trucks safe or the authorities will jerk us off the road.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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On M39, M809 and at least the earlier M939's, there two spindle nuts on each spindle, which act as jam nuts (an inner and an outer). They are two different sizes. (See Items #1 and #3.)
I'll be darned. The deuce uses the same size inner and outter and all the LD stuff I've worked on had the same size. Living and learning every day.

Welded to the big storage box behind the cab in plain sight 😀 Is this the normal location?
The normal locale for the pioneer rack was on the side of the bed as in that pic you showed earlier. I like that tucked away location. I have a second tool box to stack on the first one on my truck but my rack is already bolted to the bed. I might look into moving it. Here's mine as delivered.
 

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Lovetofix

Member
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Morrison,TN
Welded to the big storage box behind the cab in plain sight Is this the normal location?
That is the normal place for the M817’s for sure. I don’t know about the other 809 series trucks.
The M51’s I’ve seen were on the side of the dump bed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

SandBar

Full Time Patriot
756
231
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Location
GA/FL
I have a weird truck for sure, started as a m51 International Harvester gasser in 53, then updated to m51a2 in the mid 80s (diesel).
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
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4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Glad you found your pioneer tool rack. Is it actually bolted to something? As far as front axle service all inclusive post, you can find that info in the TM too.

Regarding air hoses. I have the inflator hose in my box along with a regular air hose to run other items. I got tired of packing both so I just put a quick coupler on a glad hand and then use the same hose for everything. Another thing, if anyone plans on running a large impact off of that, it's not going to work too well. There isn't enough flow through the small hose and not enough air storage. The solution is an air pig. Purchase a standard portable air tank. Add a half inch tee to it and a length of 1/2" air hose. You can charge this with your small hose and it will give you the volume and flow to run a 1" impact from the 1/2" hose. You will have to wait to build pressure back but it gives you the volume and flow to get stubborn lug nuts off.
Well it is now named. Never did know what to call it.
I had these desiccant filled instrument air tanks those idiots put in the dumpster. I built it
to dump a huge amount of compressed 125PSIG air into my one inch impact but then never need it.
I used a little harbor fright compressor to fill the thing.
So now it has a name
She an air pig

air tanks fini.JPG
 

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Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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They work real good Frank. I busted 2 lugnuts loose on my M108 using the pig, 1" impact and 1 gallon 12V compressor powered off my golf cart. Took lots of time for the little compressor to restore the air but it really worked.
 
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