need a tool

[WOLFMAN1]

i need to know if anyone knows where i can get a plug wrench for my transfer case and transmission. what does one look like? can i use something else in its place. what size wrench do i need to use on my lug nuts. looks a lot bigger than my standard tool set.

 

[doghead]

You need a standard BUDD NUTT socket, for the Lug nuts and thimbles.

The Transfer case and transmission plugs can be a couple of things, usually either 9/16 hex or 1/2" square. So you need either a 9/16" Allen wrench or use a 1/2" drive ratchet in the hole. You need to look and see which one you have.


btw, you may have found this info with an Advanced Search in the Deuce forum using key words like, transmission plug wrench or whatever you can think of.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

i tried sticking a 1/2 in socket wrench in the plug and it was alittle smaller than the square hole.

 

[doghead]

It will work, try it.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

i'll do that. thanks. does anyone know where a oil filter and fuel filter are located on a gasser?

 

[Happyland1410]

Though a 1/2 socket wrench usually works, there is actually a 9/16 square male socket made for it. Here is an example from SK:

Sk Hand Tool Corp , 41248 1/2 In Dr Male Pipe Plug Socket - 9/16 In

 

[WOLFMAN1]

thanks, if the 1/2 socket wrench works i'll let you know if not then it's to plan bravo.

 

[m16ty]

I've always used a 1/2" drive ratchet. The military used a piece of square keystock that you inserted into the hole and used a adjustable wrench to turn it in the BII.

 

[emr]

Happyland thanks for the site info, i will be using that , and yes the BII is a 1/2 inch 3 inch long square and use the adjustable like stated, good correct info

 

[nattieleather]

I'm not trying to be rude, but it sounds like you need to get a copy of the field manuals for your truck. The gasser is a little harder to find than the multifuel trucks, but they are out there. The drivers manual will show you where all your lube points are what oil to use etc. The Organizational Level manual will show you how to most repairs and the Depot manual will show overhaul type repairs. It will be a great investment for you to find them get them and read them over. You and your truck will be happy together for a long time...

 

[Barrman]

Fuel filter is on the drivers side between the fuel pump and the fuel shut off valve on the frame.

Oil filter is on the passenger side front of the engine. Big round thing with a single bolt in the lid.

As Joe wrote. Get the manuals. At least go to the "resources" button at the top of the page, go to tech manuals and on the 3rd or maybe 4th page, you will find listings for the M35 that say "pre 1965". Those are Gasser manuals.

TM9082 is the bible for Gasser work. It is a combination of the -10 and -20 I referenced you to in the above paragraph. They are out there, so get one and keep it in the seat box wrapped in a baggy so it won't get wet.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

BARRMAN! you have a gasser? thats cool thanks for the head up on resourse manuals. so pre 1965! got it. one question for you. how far should the truck travel on average before it should shift into second gear. i know 9 miles an hour. i tried in an open field and it takes a while to get up and go. some times tries to stall while driving. anyone know where i can get a good airfilter to carb hose? also need to replace water hose from rad to engine. any alternatives? love my gasser just wish i was a better mechanic

 

[Barrman]

I have a pair of Gassers. The yellowish truck with the white top at the left of my avatar picture is the 1953 parts truck. The all USMC green truck second from the right in my picture is the fully redone and running 1952 Gasser. Search for my post about Gassers and you will see most of my build from 3 years ago.

These engines need to be run and run hard to perform correctly. At least that has been my experience. I can fire it up and get down my driveway and dirt road while it warms up. Get onto a paved road and it is gutless. The shift to second is pretty fast, maybe 2-3 seconds with full throttle from a standing stop until I have to shift. But that time gets longer and longer and longer as I go through the gears. Pretty much, 5th doesn't get used because it can't pull any more than about 35 in it.

However, once it has been at whatever speed it thinks is top speed for the day a few miles, it will start to creep up. Better yet, go down a long hill at WOT. If you can be above 50 at the bottom of the hill, hold it there and 60 will be passed pretty soon. Once mine gets to 60 and held there a mile or so, it turns into a hot rod.

It will out accelerate the Whistlers M35, pull hills better than the whistler and run off and leave the whistler on level ground. Exhaust manifold glowing cherry red the entire time. Just needs to be blown out for the right performance.

I took a M105 trailer 20 miles last year behind the Gasser M35 to pick up some gravel for the drive way. It was mostly down hill to get there and I kept it around 48-52 mph but had to push going up hills to keep that speed. I told the guy at the quarry to fill it up. I figured I would run out of space before I overloaded the truck. I didn't know anything about gravel.

8.8 tons of rock later, we started for home and I couldn't get over 30 and out of 3rd gear. some really long up hill pulls against the governor in 3rd later to wake up the OA331 and I was having to back off on the flat sections to keep below 50. I was also worried about how fast my fuel gauge was dropping too. I think 3-4 mpg was all I got that run compared to my normal 5 mpg.

REO designed the M34/M35 truck around the OA331. It is the heart of the design and matches up with the transmission ratios and axle ratios perfectly because they were all designed to compliment and make the engine work like it was designed.

The only complaints I have are high speed long distance travel in the summer. 48 indicated with my 11.00-20 tires is all I can do in 100 degree heat before the temp gauge starts going up and up. Removing the hood side panels helps a lot, but slowing down is the only real fix. The truck was not designed to run 52 mph all day long in the heat. It was made to haul 2.5 tons of stuff cross country below 30 mph. It does that perfectly. I use it around my property all the time for pulling trees. The 425 rpm idle makes 1st low so slow and torque multiplied that some trees pull out before I even know the chain got tight. Low speed grunt is what this truck excells at.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

glad to find someone who has a gasser. i have a hard time trying to hit second in open field. still any subs for hoses. my problem is mostly brakes. i had to take one tank off of the truck that someone called my wet tank. it was rusted with big holes in it on one end of the tank. the other tank looks like it was just replaced. i got it to hold air pressure and the brakes to work. i even added an exterior brake fluid resivor. it is hidden under the driver seat. i filled it half full the other day and drove the truck around. with the truck off the brake pedal is firm and hard to push. with the truck running the pedal goes down with pressure and the brakes work. but when i let the truck sit for two weeks i popped up my seat cushion and my resivor was empty. but the brakes were still firm and i filled it back up. got to check today to see if they are still up. i noticed fluid of some sort in the tank when i drained it. smelled like gas or some kind of chemical. the trailer brake hook up on the driverside is always wet with what smells like gas or chemical. with the truck running shouldn't air be comming out of the trailer hook ups on booth sides. opened the one on the left and it spit fluid in my face. thank god for rags. the one on the right side opened it and no air or fluid. any suggestions. thankyou for letting me know how fast the thing should run. now i know what to expect alittle better.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

hey barrman. if your parting the yellow truck and got some parts you don't want or need. i could probably use them if you want to sell them. or if you know anyone parting out another gasser let me know. thanks again

 

[Barrman]

I am not out of room yet, so things are still being collected and not sold.

The vent for the air pack is T'ed into the vent for the fuel tank. If you are getting fuel smells at the rear, then your airpack needs to come off and get rebuilt. They are easy to do. Rebuild kits show up on Ebay all the time for less than $80. I would also recommend you replace all the hoses in the brake system, inspect each wheel cylinder and all the lines. I had to replace every single line and hose on mine along with rebuilding all the wheel cylinders. My brakes worked before I did that too. Once I got the body off and saw the rust pits in the lines, I just started ripping them out. Dont cheap out on time or money when it comes to the brakes.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

thanks it's not just at the rear of the truck when i drain the air tank the conensation coming out of the air tank smells like gas also. so replace air pack and brake lines got it. now to search for parts. anyone know how much a good running air pack will cost cause i can't rebuild crap as far as my skills go.
hey i bet theirs a manual for that isn't there?

 

[Barrman]

Yep, The TM9082 tells you how and has pictures. So does the -20.

Figure $250-$300 for a good air pack. You might want to try to learn how to take them apart.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

found out something new today. while crawling under the truck the bottom of the air pack was wet with fluid. smelled it and it was brake fluid. on the side of the air pack towards the driver side was two screws i could see and feel. it looked liked the fluid was coming from that area. the brake lines and fittings didn't have any fluid around them it all gathered along where it splits into two parts. Is there a gasket directly between those two parts or just part to part. going to check the tm and see what it says. hit me up if you know before i find it. thanks for the info. where do i find find tm9082
what is the full number for it cause i had a hard time finding it. I found 2 files in resources that have 9-2320-209-10 65-pt 1 &65-pt 2 and 3 that have april 65-1,2, &3

 

[Barrman]

TM 9082 is the full number for the 1953 or so published manual. I got mine from a guy in Lexington KY. I am pretty sure I have seen them in either MVM or the MVPA magazines for sale. Every now and then on EBay also.

If you have leaks between the large air part of the pack and the smaller hydraulic part of the pack. Then either the seals are shot on the fluid side or the control valves are shot, fluid is getting past and into the air side through the J-pipe. Since you have fluid at your trailer connections, I would lean more toward this problem. It really is very simple. Buy a kit, take it apart, clean everything and then follow the step by steps in the -20.