Need assistance with shocks

[hvillem1009]

I purchased some new shocks today so i could get rid of the old ones. I got all my tools I would need and set out to change them. I started with the rear shock, well, tried to start. Trying to pull, pry, push and even use a cheater bar, I can not get the bolt holding the bottom of the shock to break loose. I even sprayed some WD-40 to help, but still no luck. I don't have access to an impact tool, so any suggestions on how I can possibly get the bolt off?

I have tried both sides on the rear, have not attempted front shocks yet.

 

[jw4x4]

Soak it good with some penetrating oil. The best is a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Other than that, get a big breaker bar and snap the bolt and replace it.

 

[ARYankee]

PB Blaster!!!!!! It works wonders.
I carry a can in all my MVs and have one in my shed.

 

[skywalker6582]

I had the same thing a couple weeks ago. PB Blaster and walked away for awhile, then used an extra long breaker bar - cheater pipe works too. In my case I was lucky and the nut broke loose but it took lots of muscle to back it all the way off. If it doesn't break loose then it will break off and you can replace it.

 

[chevyCUCV]

After you spray with pb, or acetone/atf(my choice), hit the bolt with a hammer. The shock might be enough to make a difference. Even a bunch of taps on it with something heavy will help

Can try heating the nut and then spraying it while hot.

 

[stranger75]

Persistence is key. I second the notion of using PB Blaster and patience. it may take a couple of days or even a couple of cans to really soak in. The old blue wrench (heat) can help, and of course, leverage. The longer your breaker bar/ wrench, the more power you will get out of each grunt inducing pull.

A member posted about the same difficulty a while back.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/85272-atlanta-ga-area-request.html

 

[wayne pick]

I use a burnzamatic torch with MAP gas on rusted bolt and nuts. Propane will not get it hot enough. Spray the mixture mentioned above on it after heating, it will suck the oil into the threads. Try to spin it off while it's still hot, it will come off easier that way.

 

[stranger75]

Wayne, where is Map gas available for bernzomatic torches? Home Depot & Lowes? I have used their propane torches to some extent with success, but have never tried Map. I also need to try the ATF/ acetone mix.

 

[wayne pick]

Any Home Depot, Lowes, tractor supply or hardware store should carry it. It's the yellow bottle. It is far hotter than propane and great for stubborn rusty bolts and nuts. Not good for sweating pipe, too hot.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Another vote for PB and heat.

 

[1StumpJumper]

This is the stuff we use in refineries to break big nasty bolts/nuts loose. Soak, wait, shock the threads as mentioned above, & repeat.

 

[85CUCVtom]

Heat!

 

[hvillem1009]

Well, I got the shocks changed. It only took 3 hours. I used the PB blaster and hit with hammer, but no luck. I used a heat gun for shrink tubes and heated the bolts for about 10 minutes each and was able to break them loose without a breaker bar. I am glad I got them changed, the old shocks had no life in them at all. One of the rear shocks top mount was "jerry rigged". Glad the shocks came with parts to replace.

Next step is going to be to get the leaf springs re-arched. The new shocks help some but the leaf springs need to be re-arched. Found a place in Jackson, MS that can do for around $600. I'll give an update with new thread once that project is done.

Thanks for all the advice.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I have used their propane torches to some extent with success, but have never tried Map. I also need to try the ATF/ acetone mix.

Another vote for trying both.

MAPP gas is very useful around the house. Yeah, too hot for most copper sweating jobs. Not bad for disassembling old joints, though, and if you are careful, you CAN sweat with it.



ATF/acetone is even better than Kroil, which is better than PB Blaster.

WD-40 is pretty close to worthless as a penetrating oil Great for other things, but not as a penetrant.

 

[ARYankee]

Just curious. What brand shocks did you buy?

 

[SouthernSteel]

Freeze pentrateing oil.Auto zone sells it.It does wonders.I have used it on everything on my cucvs(m1008's).It has gottin some bad bolts loose.I love the stuff. I keep a can in my truck tool box and a can in both my buildings.

 

[scottladdy]

This is not an endorsement or recommendation for a particular product, just an example of what can be had for small financial outlay.

Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2"

There really is no substitution for a decent impact wrench when working on vehicles, especially those that are more than 25 years old. You may want to consider an investment in one before attempting to tackle the spring bolts. JMHO.

 

[jw4x4]

You must be deadset on keeping your cucv original. My front springs were toast. I swore up and down that I wasn't gonna lift my 1009. But after finding out how much the oe springs cost, I went ahead and bought a lift kit with 4 new springs for less than the cost of oe front springs. I am glad I went that route. Running slightly bigger tires and the ride is superb.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Rearching is ANCIENT tech. Going to ride like crap and then sag back down.

You can buy replacement factory leaf springs for less than $600 from a good maker like Eaton spring. Heck, even the JCWhitney ones are cheaper than that and better than rearching the saggy old stuff. Once a spring has lost it's temper you can't put it back in the metal.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Once a spring has lost it's temper you can't put it back in the metal.

Yep.

Well, maybe with some serious heat treating, but not just by running it through some rollers. AFAIK, that's all that is done with re-arching.