need electric schematic for M1084 A0

[GeneralDisorder]

would the ears etc. of the N1307 even come close to fitting 3116 mount?

and the regulator has a vehicle harness... assume that is why you need schematic... what in harness is the excite wire? what else may snag using this alt hidden in that harness?

The N1307 requires a remote mounted regulator. The alt you have pictured there doesn't appear to have a regulator or the harness so it doesn't have an excite terminal. That is literally the bare alternator - windings and rectifier, etc. Sans electronics.

I can't find any mention of what that came off of, but it should use the N3215B regulator - which apparently has a setting on it that needs attention paid to what type of batteries it's connected to - which hints at "vehicle damage" if you use the wrong setting - whatever horrible outcome that implies and no details given as to what and why this switch exists in the first place:

https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II0082A_uid121020091204322.pdf

Here's the regulator (not that common but a few on ebay):

Used Niehoff Voltage Regulator 76761-N3215B, for Military Engine Generator | eBay

Used, untested, may or may not work properly, sold for parts/repair.

www.ebay.com

Looks to be entirely too much bother to use - have to build a harness for the regulator to the alternator, and the regulator then needs another harness built to access it's excite terminal - which I can't even find a diagram of showing the pinout.

Too much trouble IMO.

 

[coachgeo]

The N1307 requires a remote mounted regulator. The alt you have pictured there doesn't appear to have a regulator or the harness so it doesn't have an excite terminal. That is literally the bare alternator - windings and rectifier, etc. Sans electronics.

I can't find any mention of what that came off of, but it should use the N3215B regulator - which apparently has a setting on it that needs attention paid to what type of batteries it's connected to - which hints at "vehicle damage" if you use the wrong setting - whatever horrible outcome that implies and no details given as to what and why this switch exists in the first place:

https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II0082A_uid121020091204322.pdf

Here's the regulator (not that common but a few on ebay):

Used Niehoff Voltage Regulator 76761-N3215B, for Military Engine Generator | eBay

Used, untested, may or may not work properly, sold for parts/repair.

www.ebay.com

Looks to be entirely too much bother to use - have to build a harness for the regulator to the alternator, and the regulator then needs another harness built to access it's excite terminal - which I can't even find a diagram of showing the pinout.

Too much trouble IMO.

uses the n3109 regulator which comes with a harness to alt. Problem is it appears the excite wire is inside the "vehicle" harness so back to square one.

This one mayyyyy also be the one Sean says is too long....... aka. hits the turbo... Ill measure tomorrow

 

[GeneralDisorder]

uses the n3109 regulator which comes with a harness to alt. Problem is it appears the excite wire is inside the "vehicle" harness so back to square one.

This one mayyyyy also be the one Sean says is too long....... aka. hits the turbo... Ill measure tomorrow

IDK there's some confusion as to the N1307 vs the N1307-1

The "-1" calls for the N3109 but the other just calls for "remote mounted regulator" and this listing on ebay shows the N1307 kit that comes with the N3215B:

C.E. Niehoff & Co Generator 76761-N1307 28V 2920-01-494-5639 280 AMp Kit | eBay

C.E. Niehoff & Co Generator 76761-N1307 28V 2920-01-494-5639 280 AMp Kit.

www.ebay.com

And yes - I'm sure on a non-C7 truck it will probably be too long and interfere with the turbocharger wastegate fitting at the very least. Also probably larger in diameter and would need the shock tower spaced out as well unless the truck has coils (SN 101906+).

 

[Third From Texas]

I was just using the N1307 as an example (I just picked a random 24v alt). Of course someone doing such a swap would need to do a good deal of research. And mods would be expected.

The point was that it's far cheaper to us a 24v + a step down due to the insanely high price of the dual voltage unti.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

If you're going to all the trouble then I would just figure out how to run the Niehoff 570A 24v unit. They are also commonly seen on ebay for $500. Sadly even the C7 trucks only have about 13" to work with in the stock location and the 570A unit is 15.5" long......