RE: Need help in obtaining registration and parts in Califor
The weight certificate is not required if it will be registered as a Historical Vehicle, but the DMV clerk will probably still tell you that it is. As I understand it, the DMV clerk will start entering your vehicle with a body type of "truck" at first, and the computer will spit out a message that a weight certificate is required (as it normally would be for any commercial vehicle). Later, when you come back after getting your VIN verification, weight certificate, and any other prerequisites lined up, they'll discover that when they try to set things up for the Historical Vehicle plate, their computer will not allow them to use any body type other than "car", and then the computer will not tell them that they need a weight certificate (or accept one, for that matter). Since your clerk probably hasn't had to deal with a Historical Vehicle registration since their training 15 years ago, they won't anticipate any of this.
My first time registering a deuce as a Historical Vehicle, I went through getting the weight certificate and learned all of this stuff the hard way. Each time since then, I helped the (different) clerk through the process (since I've been through it and they haven't!), explaining that once they try to request the Historical Vehicle plate their computer will force them to enter a body type of "car" or whatever, and thus it won't require or accept a weight certificate. Since then, I've registered a number of Historical Vehicles without needing a weight certificate.
One thing that I find helpful is to have the VIN verification done by a licensed VIN verifier from a registration service (look in the yellow pages), rather than bringing the truck in to the DMV. The less the DMV has to see, the less confused they'll get by your out of the ordinary registration.
Also, have ALL of your paperwork filled out properly and completely when you arrive at the window. Be friendly and helpful. Make it easier for the clerk to finish your registration right then and there than to pass the buck to somebody else, because they'll take the easiest path to get you out of their window!
Finally, note that even if your truck is registered as a Historical Vehicle and you never use the truck for commercial purposes, you will still need at least a Class B Commercial Driver's License to drive it legally here in CA. That's not true in all states, but it is true here in CA.
The master cylinder is under the cab, and can be accessed through the little door under the driver's feet. You'll need to disconnect the vent line from its cap (unless it's missing or broken!) and then unscrew the cap with a wrench. Your truck probably needs DOT 5 silicone brake fluid if it hasn't been modified since militayr service, and you probably won't find that at the local auto parts store. There should be at least 2 inches between the pedal and the floor when the pedal is pressed down all the way... if there's less, then it's time to adjust those brakes. I cut a piece of plywood 2 inches wide and glued it to the end of a handle about 2 feet long, so I can stick it under the brake pedal while I'm sitting in the seat and pressing the pedal. This makes it a bit easier to check the gap if you don't have a helper handy.
For your head bolt, try calling up Memphis Equipment at 901-774-0600. Might as well see if they have a gallon jug of silicone brake fluid, too.
Bleeding the brakes is no worse than it is on any other vehicle, aside from having 50% more brakes to bleed! If you need to do it without a helper then there are various options. I don't like those vacuum pump bleeders, and I'd stay away from them. Some folks get military surplus pressure bleeders, or make their own. I swap out the brake bleeder valves with part number SB71620 from
http://speedbleeder.com/ . It has a built-in check valve that makes one-person brake bleeding easy, as long as you manage to keep the master cylinder topped up. You can actually grab the brake pedal lever from under the truck and pull it, rather than climbing back up into the cab... just keep the master cylinder topped up or you'll hear that sickening gurgling sound that tells you you're starting over from scratch!
