Need help with unidentified noise please.

[edpdx]

Started two days ago. Kind of a randon noise from under the M1009. I checked it when I got home didn't find anything. Yesterday it started sounding like a pice of wire had wrapped around the turning rear wheels, or driveline- it was definitely from the rear near the center of the axle maybe. I had another look, nothing jumped out.

Sounds like chirping like a squirrel as I excelerate. Then at slower speeds I hear more mechanical noise as I nearly coast along. If I had to guess, it would be in the neighborhood of the differential.

I've only had it open once when I changed the real wheel seal. I had the brakes (rear) redone last November- drums turned, new shoes and wheel cylinders.

I don't really know my way around the rear end too well. What could be going on. It getting worse.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Have you inspected or replaced the u-joints lately?

 

[porkysplace]

Have you inspected or replaced the u-joints lately?

Or greased them , if they have been replaced they should have grease zerts.

 

[Gripy]

When my u-joints went bad it sounded like a rock was stuck in the tire; a clicking noise that increased with speed.

 

[edpdx]

What is this on the U-Joint?

I am having trouble removing the u-joint from the driveline. I used a large socket to pound the yoke housing down around the cap, but it's not budging. These little things on either side look like a roll pin end. I remember some GM models use a nylon tube to keep the ends on. Is this what we're looking at?

 

[edpdx]

Pulled the driveline this morning. it was loose the bearings seem toasted. One cap lip broken. Replacing now, but having troubles with removing the U-Joint from the driveline.

 

[Skinny]

That is where Spicer injects liquid plastic to lock the ujoint in during manufacturing. You either have to put that in a press and watch stuff explode as they come out or heat up the plastic with a torch. Not microwave safe!

Be sure to wear eye protection or maybe even a face shield. That plastic has a tendency to shoot out when heated.

 

[Drock]

You shouldn't be pounding on your drive shaft! You need to use the vise you have there and 2 sockets to PRESS out the u-joint. Then you can press the new one in.

 

[edpdx]

Drock, My question is, are these pins responsible for keeping the u-joint from being removed? Do I have to pull these pins out to get the u-joint out?

 

[Skinny]

You shouldn't be pounding on your drive shaft! You need to use the vise you have there and 2 sockets to PRESS out the u-joint. Then you can press the new one in.

This works when the truck is new or down south out of the rust belt. Just how that shaft sits in the vice, strike the yoke.

 

[Warthog]

Drock, My question is, are these pins responsible for keeping the u-joint from being removed? Do I have to pull these pins out to get the u-joint out?

You do not remove the pin, it is plastic. You melt it or break it out as you are pressing out the u-joint

 

[Recovry4x4]

My experience with the injected nylon dictates the use of a decent size press, A decent sized impact tool and/or both combined with heat. Heat makes things much easier.

 

[Drock]

Just my , I personally would NOT hammer on my driveshaft period. I'd sink it in that vise with 1 socket smaller then the bearing cup on one side. And ah socket larger then the cup on the other side, put ah large pipe over the T handle of the vise, maybe heat it up as suggested if needed. Remember your driveshaft is a balanced rotating devise, and that end is a cast piece. If you go hammering on them your liable to either bend the shaft or break the cast.

 

[edpdx]

Drock, duly noted. Holy smokes what a putz I am. I forgot to take out the C-rings on these two sides. The inner type. Pulled them off and everything comes right out. So embarrassing.

Thanks for all your help.

Just my , I personally would NOT hammer on my driveshaft period. I'd sink it in that vise with 1 socket smaller then the bearing cup on one side. And ah socket larger then the cup on the other side, put ah large pipe over the T handle of the vise, maybe heat it up as suggested if needed. Remember your driveshaft is a balanced rotating devise, and that end is a cast piece. If you go hammering on them your liable to either bend the shaft or break the cast.

 

[Skinny]

I agree but sometimes clamping or pressing only bends the yoke where a sharp smack tends to break it loose. The best method I've used is to do what you mention in a hydraulic press then hit the yoke with a hammer. Combines the best of both worlds but most don't have that equipment on hand.

I even own the fancy $400 Snap On ujoint press. I used it once only to realize it sucks compared to a hammer. Ujoints up north just don't play nice at all.

With the way that photo was taken, if you leave it exactly where it is and strike using a ball peen just to the left of the upper facing cap...success will be yours.

 

[tankie88]

I torched mine out....like I mean melted the plastic with a gas torch.

 

[doghead]

All covered in the TM...

 

[patracy]

And a vice won't warp a yolk right?

 

[Recovry4x4]

And a vice won't warp a yolk right?

If you're going to do a nylon injected joint in a vice, you better have lots of heat and a troop of chimps to crank it!

 

[patracy]

If you're going to do a nylon injected joint in a vice, you better have lots of heat and a troop of chimps to crank it!

It was a rhetorical question. Was just making a statement how a vice is safer as was mentioned in the thread. Either way can cause damage in reality, if one isn't careful.