Need some help 803a

[maniatopoulosg]

Does anyone live in the south Florida Fort Lauderdale specifically I have a fuel gauge/sender problem i would like to pay someone to figure this out get me going again I don’t want to keep changing parts generator has 150 hours on it


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[Ray70]

If you can't find anyone local, we should be able to get you fixed up by discussing it here.
I remember your previous post, but was a little confused as to what you had for a sender and gage and what exactly you found when you tested it out of the tank.
Maybe we can revisit your posts and get to the bottom of it with a little clarification.

 

[maniatopoulosg]

If you can't find anyone local, we should be able to get you fixed up by discussing it here.
I remember your previous post, but was a little confused as to what you had for a sender and gage and what exactly you found when you tested it out of the tank.
Maybe we can revisit your posts and get to the bottom of it with a little clarification.

Ray thank you for helping me with this
I purchased this unit in 2018 add 140 hours on it
I purchased the generator with a faulty fuel gauge
I purchased a fuel gauge from Greenmountain it is a vdo brand
Everything went well generator worked fuel gauge worked
Put the generator away (It is garaged next to my cars there’s no way for any rodents to get to it)
I pulled it out of the garage almost 6 months later purchased brand-new batteries
Put the batteries in and she fired right up I noticed that the fuel gauge was pegging all the way to full sometimes moving around but very slow
So I began asking questions hear about the fuel sender you guys recommended the KUS more modern version I purchased it disconnected the batteries began to disassemble the rear housing
I tested the new fuel sender she’s at 33.2 at four and 241.7 at empty ohms

Installed on the tank fuel gauge shows full and the fuel dummy light is on
Watching call me colts video on YouTube I began to figure that the ohms on fuel sender might be wrong


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[Zed254]

240 ohms empty and 33.5 full matches the document I attached, so your fuel sender looks good.

 

[maniatopoulosg]

240 ohms empty and 33.5 full matches the document I attached, so your fuel sender looks good.

Zed thank you
You think the vdo gauge I purchased from green mountain is causing this ?


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[Zed254]

I sent you a PM. My fuel gauge is a Teleflex.

 

[maniatopoulosg]

I sent you a PM. My fuel gauge is a Teleflex.

I ordered it already thank you


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[maniatopoulosg]

I ordered it already thank you


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I ordered it already thank you


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I just hate ordering parts not knowing what it is here are pics of current gauge

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[Zed254]

You might want to check your wiring connections, too. It might be something as simple as a grounding or corrosion problem. I searched on 'fuel gauge pegs full' and got several hits. This one is interesting:
What would cause a fuel gauge to peg way past full?

Re: What would cause a fuel gauge to peg way past full? Generally, if your gauge is reading past full and the tank isn’t full, it’s the positive wire that has a connection problem. If it’s reading totally empty, it’s the ground.

 

[kloppk]

The LOW FUEL fault should have nothing to do with the fuel level sender. The LOW FUEL is detected by the float switch in the tank.
The fuel level sender only provides a signal to the fuel gauge to operate it.

I'd suggest grabbing a meter and checking some DC voltages to determine where the problem is.

Connect the meters negative lead to the front panel ground stud in the right corner of it.
Place S1 in the PRIME/RUN position (set does not need to be running)
The voltage at the fuel gauges ground stud should be 0 volts DC.
The voltage at the fuel gauges "I" terminal should be approximately 24 volts DC.
The voltage at the fuel gauges "S" terminal should be between approximately 3.5 and 8.5 volts DC. That voltage will depend on how much fuel is in the tank.
Here are the approximate DC voltages you should have at the "S" terminal based on the fuel level.

E 8.4 volts DC
1/8 7.9 volts DC
1/4 7.4 volts DC
3/8 6.8 volts DC
50 6.2 volts DC
56 6.0 volts DC
5/8 5.5 volts DC
3/4 4.7 volts DC
7/8 4.1 volts DC
Full 3.5 volts DC

Let us know what you measure at each of the points

 

[Dieselmeister]

What was wrong with the original fuel gage when you purchased the unit? You replaced the gage, the new gage worked, and now you are having problems with the new gage. My concern is that you might have a problem somewhere else in the wiring that is causing this, and not the sender or gage.

 

[Dieselmeister]

A few troubleshooting points in addition to my previous post, and a simplified operating description.

The gage operates by applying 24 volt power to one side of the gage, then taking this power from the other gage terminal (S) to the sender. The sender is a variable resistor that then sends the power to ground. High resistance registers as low fuel, low resistance as high level.

Does your tank show full, or peg on the full side? If it pegs "full", you most likely have a short in the sender lead, to the chassis ground, somewhere in the generator.

A quick way to verify this is to turn the master switch to run (but don't start).

First. If the gage pegs, remove the sender wire (S) from the gage. If the gage drops to empty, your gage is good. Reconnect the wire.

Second. Carefully remove the sender wire from the Sender and see if the gage is still pegged. If it is still pegged, you have a short somewhere. In other words, something is taking the power to ground, before it gets to the sender, giving you a fake Full signal. (Some gages also can be damaged if they get full power for from a short for too long. Full is normally 33 ohms in the sender. This could be why your original gage was defective).

Put some tape over the disconnected lead at the sender, and with the unit in the run position (but not running), start (gently) tugging and wiggling the sender wire between the sender and gage. When your gage drops to empty, then you are close to the short.

Keep us posted, and we will help you get this problem solved!