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On the a-3 the cat engine is fairly reliable, the transmissions however do not like to be abused and are hard to get parts for.
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There you go. If you can get 13K out of a truck off road in ALASKA!, I should be able to get 10K of paved road miles in So. Cal. But you might be the exception. Other posts here seem to cast doubt on getting anything near that without major $ and work. I'm just trying to get a sense of it.I have 13 k of dirt road mileage on my lmtv, with only an oil change, a couple door handles ,and an cab air bag replacement. I spent 6 k on it, its a daily driver, and a work truck, other than the climb to get in to it, the worst part about it is the price of a weekly fill up.
How do you "abuse" an automatic transmission? Can't exactly strip gears, ride the clutch or shift it from first to reverse like a stick.On the a-3 the cat engine is fairly reliable, the transmissions however do not like to be abused and are hard to get parts for.
My LMTV blew the fan clutch and took out the radiator. Fan clutch design was extremely flawed and should have been replaced by the military but wasn't. I also lost a rear brake canister due to age/stuck diaphragm. These 2 items didn't show up on normal maintenance but still happened. No matter what you're looking at an aged vehicle that likely was driven hard by people who had no vested interest in treating it like it was their own and have to pay for damage from the way it was driven (I know I didn't care when I drove stuff in the Army other than I didn't want to replace a track if I threw one off my tank). "Maintained" in the 80s meant you spent a couple days a week in the motorpool doing PMCS but that was all superficial. Things were only really torn down if they were seriously broken. Different posts or different units on the same post might have done things differently but you're just as likely to get one from a unit like mine (this was the same between Ft Polk and Ft Lewis and then between Active and Guard units) so don't live under the illusion that the military was perfect in the way they took care of these trucks.Well THAT"S my question. Yes, I had to virtually REBUILD my little Willys. I CAN'T do that with a deuce, but that's the question, how often do they break and require MAJOR repairs. LOTS of posts here about tearing apart the transmissions, pumps, brake systems etc. Quite a bit difference between squirting up the zerks and changing oil every year, replacing bulbs etc. and tearing apart a huge cat. engine.
10k "trouble free miles" and "no major projects" is kinda relative to what you're used to... For example, if your conscientious about caring for the truck, you'll probably want to pack the hubs during that time. Hub packing is a regular maintenance item. Some guys will brag that they can knock out all 6 in a day, duals 'n' all, and to them it's no big deal. But, I can realistically see it taking someone a full 3 days (or more) in a less-than-condusive environment, going at a careful pace so as not to get it wrong the first time, trying to figure out the process and what tools are best for the job along the way. And that would be considered far more laborious than a "typical maintenance" item on your little willy's, and would be considered a "major project" by many folks. And, given the associated quantities of oil, coolant, grease, etc. a deuce can redefine your notion of what a "big mess" truly is. With these trucks there will always be a bulb about to blow, return spring about to snap, or a seal about to weep. long story short, you've got to enjoy tinkering, and being a steward of 50 year-old nostalgia to enjoy owning one of these trucks. Otherwise you're likely to be miserable.There you go. If you can get 13K out of a truck off road in ALASKA!, I should be able to get 10K of paved road miles in So. Cal. But you might be the exception. Other posts here seem to cast doubt on getting anything near that without major $ and work. I'm just trying to get a sense of it.
I have done so many hub services I can recite off the top of my head exactly which tools you need, torque specs, wheel cylinder, bearing, race and seal part numbers, etc.Some guys will brag that they can knock out all 6 in a day, duals 'n' all, and to them it's no big deal. But, I can realistically see it taking someone a full 3 days (or more) in a less-than-condusive environment
WOW, that IS a lot of work. I've never seen a vehicle designed such that you have to completely disassemble the entire wheel hub w/I 10,000 miles.I have done so many hub services I can recite off the top of my head exactly which tools you need, torque specs, wheel cylinder, bearing, race and seal part numbers, etc.
And it usually takes me 3-4 days to do a full blown, 6 hub service, including inner front seals and zipperless boots. Now, others might do it faster because I'm really finicky about cleaning everything so it's spotless but it's an enormous job and I have all the tools, including a custom built seal installer for the rears.
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At issue is the weird seal. So, on these the seals ride on the bearing races and they keep the gear oil out of the hub and the grease in the hub.WOW, that IS a lot of work. I've never seen a vehicle designed such that you have to completely disassemble the entire wheel hub w/I 10,000 miles.
djandj. One of the Steel Soldiers members here in the South West may have a good truck for sale. It's most important to find a well maintained truck that has a solid drive train, electrical, and a rust free body. I've had my Deuce for 11 years, and 20,000+ miles. The mistake I made when I purchased my truck was, although the price was right, and the truck looked clean, it hadn't been well maintained. So soon after I purchased it, I started having all kinds of little problems, leaks (coolant and oil), turn signals and other electrical problems, etc. etc.. What I'm trying to say is start with a good solid truck...don't scrimp. I'm retired so I work on my truck a lot. It's my Hobby. Even a good solid Deuce is going to require maintenance. So if your not into spending time under, inside, and around your truck, you may as stated else ware here. Find a Chevy or Dodge. Maybe a CUCV? Hope this helps.WOW, that IS a lot of work. I've never seen a vehicle designed such that you have to completely disassemble the entire wheel hub w/I 10,000 miles.
The problem with an M35A3 is not abuse (well sort of), but that the OEM seals on the pistons that put pressure on the clutch pack, especially the 4th and reverse, start leaking past them and the pressure on the frictions and steels decreases (slips). Then people mash the fuel (rpm) and the clutch's burn out.How do you "abuse" an automatic transmission? Can't exactly strip gears, ride the clutch or shift it from first to reverse like a stick.
It is correct that plated "Historical" will get you around the CDL issue. I have a CDL but have never been pulled over or even questioned regarding my license in over 12 years.I believe theres an exemption for historic vehicles over a certain age. You'll want to talk to people in California who have these things. Don't get your info from people out of state (including me), nor unfortunately from reading the laws. The relevant data is scattered and the exemptions aren't in the same place as the regulations.
I disagree with the "older trucks are a big hassle" statement. Older trucks, like the M35A2 are bulletproof if you maintain them properly. That being said, beat it hard and you should expect to put some $$ into fixing the stuff you break. These trucks have been around for years and were designed to be serviced/serviceable in isolated areas/regions. No complicated electronics, no CTIS stuff, no automatic trannys, just a truck designed to do its job under very harsh conditions.Great information guys. So I get that older trucks are a big hassle and are old technology. But many of the trucks out there I'm looking at like the M923 etc. are from the 80's or 90's. Can't really compare the two can we? How is the maintenance/reliability for a M923 etc. from the 80's or 90's? Or is it a case of same tech just repackaged.
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