New 36' tires on my truck

[Ranger_J]

HEy guys, once again it's me with probably a silly question. I bought some 36 inch tires and I am going to have them put on my truck soon with a 4 inch lift. What are somethings I am going to need to know before I put em on. Loose power, shakes alot on the road, steering, things like that. The guys I am going to seems to know what he is talking about. Going to switch to a diferent steering set up. Forgot what it is called but I think it's cross over steering. Said it would be better than what is on it right now. Total cost is about 1500 dollars for what he is gunna do. I am not sure if that sounds right and he explained what was gunna happen and I was like huh? MY buddy goes to him all the time and said don worry, your gunna like it when he is done. Just wanted to know if there was anything I needed to be aware of before I stick those prety little tires on. thanks

 

[Westech]

your going to want a 5 inch or so.... I had a 4.5 and cleared 33 with room but it was nice to have little more room when in the twisty stuff.... will have to lower T case but that is ez.. just use the bolts and spacers already on the cross member.. the front steering stabilizer is crap so get a off road unit. the stock one will last a week with larger tires.... going to need longer brake lines, shokes.. that no big deal.

 

[ctmustang]

 

[tamangel]

Does GA require that all tread be covered by fenders? ...so if your tires stick out several inches from the body, would you have to add fender flare extensions?

Mike

not related
http://www.maginternational.org/

*****

 

[Ranger_J]

ok, thanks for the info. 5 it is. Yeah, my first thought about lifts where it is just to give the tires room. I think he is gunna make my truck do the twisty thing. skyjacker stuff and what not. 1500 dollars for what he is gunna do. steel brake lines etc. gotta ask about the t case

 

[4bogginchevys]

I would suggest you not lower the t-case. I have had many front driveline issues with angularity and I have come to the conclusion it does not help unless the bind issue is at the axle yoke, you will not have a problem with this. I used a magnetic angle finder when setting my truck up the last time and it actually makes the angle worse, I think by 2 degrees or so but cant exactly remember. The angle gets worse at the tranfer case by making the front shaft run just a little up hill before it drops to the front, that is if you have a cv unit on it, and that truck definately does if stock. If you encounter any bind issues with the cv unit(the reason to drop it in the first place) you can grind a little off the ears of the cv where it will make contact. The driveline professional in this neck of the woods told me to do this instead of buying a "high angle" cv unit because thier really not worth it. I've now run my front shaft a whole year without issue.....Good luck

 

[scrambled]

I spent many years lifting trucks in a couple of 4x4 shops. You don't need crossover steering.

To clear the tires in your pic, I would run a 6 inch lift. On the blazers and burbs, I would add a little extra to the rear. Usually 1-2 uches in the for of a block or add-a-leaf.

The steering for 6 inches would be a block and raised arm. With those pieces, it will turn like a factory truck. The crossover steering is a good idea, but not needed. Was he using the sector shaft from a 2wd box? Also, how was he going to attach it to the passenger knuckle?

I have a 4/6 lift ordered for my 1009. I am going to run 35x12.50r17s on 17x9 wheels, so they won't be nearly as meaty as your tires. I love the 36 iroks though.

Your ride quality should not suffer from the lift and tires. the iroks will make more noise, but they should balance out and ride pretty smoothly. If they are the bias ply ones, the will hop a bit in the mornings due to the flat spots from sitting. I ran 39 bias iroks and after the first mile they rode really smooth.

Hope this helps. I can't wait to lift mine soon.

Travis

 

[elfraz]

scrambled, What brand lift did you get? I just got a M1009 and am planning the same set up you discribed.

 

[overkill375]

I run military 36"s with a 4" lift from tough country no rubbing yet on my 1008. I did order longer brake lines and shocks though.

 

[Ranger_J]

HEy thanks guys, pretty awesome info. I knew I loved this website for a reason. I am rolling over all that info in my head. As for crossover, I think he was goingto custom fab something. NOt sure. I need to pay more attention. I have add so the only way I would know exactly what he is doing is to have a pen and paper and right down everything there and then. Anyway, thanks again.

 

[scrambled]

The lift I am going with is the following:
Superlift front 4" springs 01-234-6
Superlift front kit box 3001-1
Steering arm 3000
Front shocks 85100
rear 4" block 3049
rear add-a-leaf 2300
rear shocks 85150


I like the superlift stuff because it is a softer ride up front. A lot of the lifts make the trucks ride harsh. I always run the superlift stuff on my personal trucks.

 

[red]

the crossover steering upgrade is not mandatory but helps alot with steering issues and wheel travel when your offroad (the twisty stuff). crossover will reduce the amount of bump steer you get tremendously, its also a stronger setup and your able to keep your ability to turn all the way when offroad, compared to the stock setup which when your flexed out (one wheel stuffed into the fender the other is all the way down as far as it can drop), your steering is extremely limited.

picture to explain the flexed out statement, my old 79 k5 (civilian model) stock height with 33x12.5"

for the actual lift there are lost of ways to do it. from experience i've found rough country springs to be the smoothest riding and allow the most flex (wheel travel). for shocks most of the brands that sell monotube shocks are similar in quality but what shock you decide to use depends on your use of the truck. if your going to go flying through the desert at high speeds a shock with a remote reservoir would be the best option. if its daily driving and some mixed offroad a monotube shock would be just fine (the normal shock upgrade). get the nitrogen filled shocks if you abuse the truck hard and want your shocks to last longer but if your not that hard on it no worries. lots of more info about making the blazer more offroad capable if your interested shoot me a pm

 

[4bogginchevys]

I bet your mechanic will use either new or used knuckles from an early dana44. The "flat top" version has an over hung tie-rod aswell. It may be a bit overkill, but 3/8 wall DOM tubing with weld in bungs and (one each) left hand/right hand threaded heims on each end make your steering adjustability very easy and elimininate bind while offroad(from 2wd box to pass knuckle. It is spendy but worth it for ease on your steering pump/box.

 

[steved454]

Just got my m1028 a month ago and went through the same thing, except I have not bought the wheels or $750 to $800 + installtion unless you do it yourself. you can go to ORD Online Catalog - 4x4 Suspensions, Parts and Performance and get there steering box brace , I would get that with the size tires you are going to for insurance. tuff and rough country sells lift kits for about $300 to $400 dollars but you have to buy the drop pitman arm $140. I decide to go budget build on this truck( I always go crazy and pump all kinda of $ into my projects) and went to my local spring shop and had him fix up a 4.5 spring lift, no blocks used and got new shocks and drop pitman arm. I spent right at $850 but no blocks at all used and I know the guy and I think business was real slow and he needed the work. If anyone has hummer or hummer2 wheels for sale or anything close to it pm me I am to the wheel and tire stage atm. Hope this helps some.

 

[detroitmuscle1986]

i was thinking about going with some HD tuff country 4" lift springs, but being in maine we ned a plow on our truck to plow our driveway. Im just unsure if the springs will be able to support the weight of the plow and if they can, how much they will sag?