New Deuce Has A Problem

[97Beast]

When I got the new deuce I had to kill the engine about 5 times by putting it in 5th, pressing the brake, and releasing the clutch. This was because the engine shutoff cable was corroded and stuck at the pump. I've since freed up the shutoff and it works as it should now. However I'm not sure how many times the previous owner killed it this way.

When I first got it the transmission shifted in all gears great and worked in first and reverse beautifully. After each time I killed it this way the transmission has gotten worse. First I noticed it was harder to put into different gears and 1st and Reverse. Now I cant get it into 1st or Reverse without the transmission grinding.

I thought I might have worn the clutch and I thought I could have fixed it by adjusting the linkage. So I followed the procedures in TM 9-2320-361-24-1. I made sure I had 3.25" from the center of the lever bottom hole to the transmission flange. I also made sure the pedal free-travel was 1.5". Therefore the pedal moves 1.5" before the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate fingers. I observed this through the bottom inspection port on the bellhousing.

Is my clutch disk shot? Is the pressure plate/clutch adjustable?
If the clutch is worn thinner why would it cause this problem?

Also when I had the center floor cover removed I noticed a shaft that slides out of the shifter mechanism cover. Is this normal?
When I looked through the inspection port everything looked like new and there was no clutch material strawn around.

I appreciate any help you guys can give me.

 

[OPCOM]

well, what you did to stop the engine is for emergencies only, and sure it is very hard on the clutch and trans. If you wan to see if the clutch really disengages, chock the wheels put on the parking brake put trans in 4th put transfer in neutral have a helper push in the clutch all the way get under the truck and try and turn the little shaft between the transfer and transmission. it won't be easy at all, but you will certainly be able to tell if it is free or if the clutch is grabbing/sticking.

 

[gimpyrobb]

While it isn't the preferred method to stop it, I doubt that it killed the trans. You DO know the first and reverse are NOT syncro-ed, right? If at a stop, try bumping it into 2nd first and then shift into first. See how that does. I really haven't heard anything to indicate its bad yet.

Edit, that rod is a left-over relic that controlled the sprage T-cases. All the trans should have them.

 

[RAYZER]

Make sure that your trans has gl1 in it.

 

[clinto]

Remove the inspection place on the bottom of the bellhousing, have someone depress the clutch pedal and measure with a feeler gauge the clutch disc departure. I think it's something like .018"/.020" (going off memory here).

 

[deathrowdave]

Trans is designed to take max. torque form Multi-fuel engine. Engine is not at max. torque at idle . The trans did not know if the truck was trying to move a heavy load or stall the engine.I would check the clutch it may have went to lunch.

 

[97Beast]

Today I took a look inside the inspection plate, and it looks like the clutch is not disengaging all the way. With the transmission in 5th and the Transfer Case in nuetral, we had the clutch to the floor and i could spin the shaft between the Transmission and T-case. But it wasnt quite spinning freely, the clutch was still rubbing.
My linkage is dialed in, and my throw-out bearing is only 1000ths of an inch away from the forks. What could be keeping me from disengaging.

The truck shifted flawlessly when i first bought it, and only after having it for a week the grinding, and difficulty to shift showed up. What needs to happen to get my clutch to disengage all the way, what happened to all of sudden keep me from disengaging?

School me guys! I can bear to see my 11,000lb+ purchase sit and be inoperable.

 

[rosco]

RUN IT! Quit worrying. After a while, you will learn if there is really anything wrong. When was the last time you greased it? They can always use a grease job. Usually one squirt will do it, except the u-joints. You grease them until it comes out good. (the grease job has little to do with your clutch, other then to help you not worry and to give you a learning experience on looking at all that iron under there) Don't miss any fittings!

 

[97Beast]

I would think about running it if I inherited this problem, but the fact that it has come up just recently after purchasing it has me worried.

Does your truck grind in 1st and Reverse? I've read how so many other members have this problem. Alot of them contribute this to the lack of synchroes in 1st and 2nd. In reality my trans is still spinning because the clutch is not fully disengaged, synchronized or not that is a problem. But what exactly causes this problem. There has to be a way to mend this because I drove the truck without any issues for the first week I had it.

And yes there are a ton of fittings underneath this thing. I plan on getting to all of them, but this trans issue has really stopped me from any other tinkering.

 

[Floridianson]

Sticky pilot bearing?

 

[gringeltaube]

That's what I think it is.
First I would reduce pedal free travel to 1" or little under and see if it made any difference. If not then the input shaft nose could be running dry in the pilot bushing causing enough drag to have the input shaft spinning all the time, especially after transmission gets warmer.

G.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Remove your floor plates, place your T case and Trans in neutral and start your truck. The centrifical force will cause your main shaft to spin slightly. Take a crowbar and see if you can stop it with little to no resistance, if you can then you are probably all right. My old trans and the one I just installed both did this.
Also check your throwout bearing fork rod lever (next to the throttle pedal) If it is misadjusted it could be causing your problems. Mine was misadjusted and it was a bit*h to get it right again, I had to remove the entire throttle pedal assy just to adjust it.
Good luck and Merry Christmas!

 

[Seth_O]

I had a very similar issue - mine turned out to be a very slightly ballooned input shaft. I checked it by removing the floor plates, putting the t-case in neutral and running the truck. With the tranny in neutral I got just a very slow spin out of the output shaft (I could hold it still with my hands.) With the truck in gear but the clutch pedal depressed it spun much more aggressively, and I couldn't stop it. Once I fixed the input shaft issue when I put the clutch in the output shaft actually came to a stop with the engine running.

I would check your freeplay adjustment, T/O bearing and tranny alignment in the BH. It's also possible the PP is sticking for some reason. I can't see that your emergency shut-down's would do that, but maybe?

 

[97Beast]

Guys thanks for the advice so far. Here is what I was able to do yesterday.

I removed the inspection cover on the bottom of the bellhousing, put the transfer case in neutral, put the transmission in 5th, and had my brother push in the clutch to the floor.

I was able to turn the short shaft between the tranfer case and the transmission by hand ( only possible with the clutch pedal to the floor ). When I did this the throughout bearing pushed in the forks on the preasure plate and the clutch disk was able to spin. The problem is that I could feel and hear the clutch disk rubbing and it took some effort to turn it ( it should be free when the pedal is to the floor ? ). By being in 5th overdrive the ratio helped my effort. I was not able to do this in any other gear because the rubbing force was too strong for the ratio of the other gears.

As I mentioned before I have adjusted the clutch linkage per the manual.

Also, when the clutch is not used the throwout bearing is several thousands from touching one of the forks but the other fork I can see is about 1/8 inch from touching the throwout bearing. I noticed that all the forks are not at the same height when at rest. I'm sure this is not per the intended design.

If the linkage is adjusted and the clutch pedal has to be all the way to the floor to partially free the disk, then I am assuming that there is something wrong with the preasure plate. I also assume that as the clutch disk wears the preasure plate more more quickly free the disk since the thickness of the disk would be less.

What do you guys think before I pull the transmission and clutch??

Thank You !!

 

[m-35tom]

put some oil on the splined shaft where it goes into the clutch disk. it is probably just dry and the disk does not move as freely as it could. using the clutch to stall the engine at idle will not hurt the clutch at all. even if you do it for years.

tom

 

[Barrman]

Make sure the transmission is bolted tightly to the bellhousing. Several people have had them work loose and behave as you describe.

Beyond that, I would suggest adjusting the linkage to where it allows the clutch to spin more free. How thick is your clutch disc now?

After that, I would think pilot bearing as mentioned above. Which means you get to see if you really can bench press a transmission.

 

[gimpyrobb]

You could keep speculating, or you could pull it and see for sure. If you accept it is coming out, you should be able to have it sitting on the ground in 2hrs. A couple hours of inspecting/adjusting. Then 2hrs to put it back in. Its not really THAT bad.