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New deuce owner seeking advice

frank8003

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I have seen a few people talk about using the gladhand as a remot line. Is that similar yo what you are talking about? I do not currently have access to a gladhand unfortunately. But hope to soon.
I remember 1/2" NPT TEE.

Don't need a gladhand fittin. Just take that off and add a "T" and pipe into the TEE
andIMG_6448.JPG put the gladahand original back on. Add to the TEE whatever fitting you want to get from any compressor air hose into it. Then you got air without running engine.
Piece of cake. Me, with various means of connecting went a bit too much but all various were there on quick disconnects for any hookup I wanted to make.
 

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Jacob2027

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Southeast alaska
I remember 1/2" NPT TEE.

Don't need a gladhand fittin. Just take that off and add a "T" and pipe into the TEE
and put the gladahand original back on. Add to the TEE whatever fitting you want to get from any compressor air hose into it. Then you got air without running engine.
Piece of cake. Me, with various means of connecting went a bit too much but all various were there on quick disconnects for any hookup I wanted to make.
That is a heck of a line of fittings. But could be very useful. So half inch npt back at the gladhand? Then adapt down I imagine to quarter inch not for the other airline fittings?
 

Welder1

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Ok it's critical that the tip in the end of the rod is engaged to the sliding collar in the pump. If it is correct you should be able to rotate it towards the firewall and let go and it should return to the 7 0'clock position. The fuel shutoff cable only pulls the lever. It has to return to the run position on its own.
 

Jacob2027

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Ok it's critical that the tip in the end of the rod is engaged to the sliding collar in the pump. If it is correct you should be able to rotate it towards the firewall and let go and it should return to the 7 0'clock position. The fuel shutoff cable only pulls the lever. It has to return to the run position on its own.
Thank you. I knew it had to be engaged inside but wasn't sure if that wouod be the way to tell. I added a little grease to that so it doesn't want to fall out.
 

frank8003

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One could even put 1/4" line feeding into there
Or even 1/8"
Let the pressure build and goand see.

Just put a tee
One can always puit a pipe plug in it
It is just so USEFUL!
 

frank8003

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There is nobody here to hinder You
Everybody Here wants to help........................
55° 43'N 132° 52'W
Wood at that place is used for heat
stay warm.......................either.
 

Jacob2027

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Southeast alaska
One could even put 1/4" line feeding into there
Or even 1/8"
Let the pressure build and goand see.

Just put a tee
One can always puit a pipe plug in it
It is just so USEFUL!
That it will be. Got some old 1/4 npt air fittings for quick connect I can use. Have to get other parts from the hardware store. If they have any....
 

Jacob2027

Member
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Location
Southeast alaska
There is nobody here to hinder You
Everybody Here wants to help........................
55° 43'N 132° 52'W
Wood at that place is used for heat
stay warm.......................either.
Yep burn two wood stoves. One in the main house and a double barrel in the shop. Everyone here has been a great help. So much good knowledge and advice.
 

Jacob2027

Member
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Location
Southeast alaska
So quick update. Full filter set finally ordered and on its way. Seller had taken the weekend off. So kindof a bummer but the alternator is also ordered now and should be in the mail tomorrow morning. With any luck and all haste on shipping she will be running by Sunday. At that point just need to see how the engine sounds. I know when she reved high before she sounded smooth. Hopefully no damage...
 

fpchief

Well-known member
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South Alabama
Ok. They are ok, just sometimes have some delays. I have one and I do like it. If it does not come in when it is supposed to, do not let any time go by before you try to make contact.
 

Jacob2027

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Location
Southeast alaska
Ok. They are ok, just sometimes have some delays. I have one and I do like it. If it does not come in when it is supposed to, do not let any time go by before you try to make contact.
Sounds good. The guy seemed really nice on the phone. Said they had just put a kit together and had it in a box to ship out to me first thing in the morning and they would track it as well as giving me tracking just to make sure it arrives properly.
 

Jacob2027

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Location
Southeast alaska
When you remove the alternator/generator take and clean that big ground wire landed on the frame underneath it. It is the only way/time to get to it and it needs to be cleaned up and relanded.
Sounds good to me. Thanks for the advice. I would have probably skipped that until later.
 
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Jacob2027

Member
65
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18
Location
Southeast alaska
Ok so still waiting on a 5gallon bucket transfer pump from orielly for doing lube. But did the alternator and fuel shuttoff today. Drained the air tanks. The one on the passanger side had a lot of water in it but it was clear water and then some motor oil on top of it. I am thinking rings in the air pump? Also on the belhouse between the transmission and engine there is a plug on the bottom and an open hole that is threaded. Is this normal? What goes in the hole if so? Here are some pictures.
 

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tobyS

Well-known member
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Use a copper line bigger than what you need coming from the compressor...it dissipates heat and could go several feet. Most don't use very much air volume, but slowing the hot air down from a large diameter will help to cool it.

Those are nice looking tires on the rear. I would keep them for now and would consider doing 10.00 all the way around. But I don't like budd rims, so would be looking for a no-offset rim (front) if I wanted 10.00.

What I would replace is the fronts. I'd go to a lot more flotation. The 11.00 is very close to the OD of the 14.5 on the A3 and you will find several members that use the combination, 14.5 on front on A3 wheels and 11.00 on the rear budds. if you go that way, there is a modification to the spring perch that you should research for front stability.

For a while, use the 10.00 on the rear and get the front dialed in with the 14.5....then find a set of 11.00 when you have other things working/replaced/rebuilt for the rear. Stay off hard pavement when the front is engaged and you should not have much problem.

Looks like a worthy project....a good deal. The hard top is a good advantage and of course the winch. I think threaded hole in bellhousing is for water fording....put a plug in it for deep water (and remove later).

If you are going to do your wheel bearings, why not put new rubber in the wheel cylinders and new brake shoes?
 

M37M35

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East Central Oklahoma
Drained the air tanks. The one on the passanger side had a lot of water in it but it was clear water and then some motor oil on top of it. I am thinking rings in the air pump?
Sounds like the previous owner hadn't drained the air tanks like they should have. Both tanks are supposed to be drained every time the truck is driven because of oil and water accumulation, which is normal. A lot of oil could indicate a problem, but you won't know that until you get the truck up and running and drive it for awhile.
Also on the belhouse between the transmission and engine there is a plug on the bottom and an open hole that is threaded. Is this normal? What goes in the hole if so?
Yes. The plug you see is stored in a blank hole and is moved to the open hole before fording deep water. After fording, it's to be removed from the open hole and put back in the blank storage hole.
All the above info is in the TM.
 
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