New deuce project

[jacklegjim]

My deuce project was finally delivered today. I bought it 3 weeks ago and was not in a big hurry to get it due to the weather.
It is a 1983 Air force M35 A2C W/O W and has had the bed and some other parts removed and put on another truck that was for sale.
My plans are to go back with a drop side bed if I can find one at a good price and not too far away and put duel brake circuit from an A3 which I have already bought.
The hard top has a few rust issues/holes around the joints I can fix it, I just don't know if it would be worth the time. Other than the brakes I plan to keep it original.
I also bought a parts truck with no bed or axles. I plan on keeping the truck a while and wanted to have spare parts around. I sold my last deuce a few years ago
and I wished I had not sold it before it left my driveway.I also had brake failure on the truck I sold while the guy who bought it was test driving it. One of the front brake hoses some how got between the steering knuckle stop bolt and axle and it was cut into. Anyway my new truck needs a lot of work to get it in the condtion I would like it to be.It seams like everytime I buy something like this it looks worse after I get it home than it did before I bought it.
I will be a few days before I start to work on it bad weather is coming. Here is a few pictures I would have got a few more but it was raining.

 

[rchalmers3]

Short lil begger! It looks pretty good from here!

Rick

 

[jacklegjim]

It is missing the outer tires on the rear axle.

 

[OD_Coyote]

.It seams like everytime I buy something like this it looks worse after I get it home than it did before I bought it.
I will be a few days before I start to work on it bad weather is coming.

I have the same issue and have had it for 40 years.

 

[jacklegjim]

Well I have spent the last three days working to get the non running deuce I bought running again. There were several small issues to fix but the main one was the HH. The button fell off and the bowtie is broke in two pieces.I had already bought a used IP that was stated it was pulled from a good runner. I got that put on today and it started right up no help from starting fluid. Here is the problem it does not want to idle
and the throtle response seams slow. It will idle if I ease up on the throtle real slow but, if I rev it up and let off it will die.It starts right back up and then idles down some and then dies.
My new fuel filters will be here tomorrow I will replace them and see if it is any better. Is will somke a little when I start it back up after it dies.I hope it is the filters but, I have a felling it is something else.
Would it run at all if the timing was 180 out? I will also check that tomorrow. I have been working in the mud and away from my garage I can at least move it to the shop now.
I am pretty sure it needs a clutch it will move but, it does not feel right that is next on the list.
I have been taking things slow and have taken all the steps to deal with a run away multi-fuel if it should happen. I have read several stories about run aways on here and it worries me that I will do something wrong and have a run away.

 

[jacklegjim]

I changed all three fuel filters today and it runs a lot better but, still will die when it is de-accelrating.If I give it some throttle right before it dies it will keep running.
It revs up good, starts easy and idles good.It will start and idle with out giving any throttle and will run rough at 500 rpm for maybe a minute and go up to 700 rpm and run smooth there. I am not sure what to look at next. I appreciate any advice. I took two short videos on my iphone I will post a link if I figure out how to get them to youtube.
Thanks

 

[jacklegjim]

Here are the links to the videos. One of them is it starting and me doing nothing the other one is reving it up and giving it some throttle before it quits.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxkBArPLFAI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4K7wPwrxwOM

 

[rustystud]

Check for air getting into your fuel lines. You might have a pin hole leak somewhere. Also adjust your lifters.

 

[jacklegjim]

Well I replaced the lift pump today I was using a in line pump temporarily. I dont have any leaks on the fuel system. I am not sure how to tell if it is sucking air but, no leaks anywhere with the lift pump running and the engine off or running. When I crack the bleeder no sign of air in the fuel. It started right up today after not running since yesterday. Any other ideas? When I searched for a similar problem I found a few but, there was no post on the fix. This is dissapointing to say the least. If no other ideas I guess I could try the good HH on the original IP.Is there something in the governor that controls the idle speed or is it just the screw on the throttle arm? The tag on the IP I put on has idle speed 550 rpm and max rpm 2600 I adjusted the screw on the throttle arm to get it to idle at 700 rpm it did no help the problem though.

 

[jamawieb]

Does the motor not sound like it has a knock, it sounds like a valve to me? Do you have any blow by out of the exhaust?

 

[jacklegjim]

I don't think it is a rod I does not sound like other rod knocks I have herd. It it is not as loud in person as it is on the video. I have the trans cover off and it louder in the truck than outside. You can see a little blow by coming from the road draft tube. I loosened the injector lines while it was running and the noise did not changed the rpm dropped.
I dont see anything other than diesel smoke from the exhaust. I will adjust the valves and started too tonight but, after reading the procedure I need to find a way to turn the motor while watching the valves I don't have soldier B.
I loosened all the injectors while I was working on it this past weekend and tried to turn it with the fan but the belts slipped. Also my IP does not have a FDC and running straight diesel.I pulled the fuel tank off and cleaned it good before I tried to start it. The only other thing is I don't have a air filter in it right now I have one on the way.I can't see that causing any issue.

 

[rustystud]

What is your fuel pressure ? You didn't mention before that your using a "inline" fuel pump not the factory intank pump. That can make a huge issue. You should have around 7psi to 10psi to the injection pump booster pump. Then coming out of the booster pump you should have around 30psi to 60psi to the filters and back again to the injection pump. If the pressure is too low you can fuel starve the engine.

 

[jacklegjim]

Last night I put a gauge in the line between the filter and HH.
there is a tee with a plug in one end and I put it there.
The gauge I used is not very high quality so it could be off
a few psi but, 7 or 8 psi with the lift pump running
With the engine running the needle is jumping around so fast it is hard to get a good reading.
I will move it to the filter housing and see what the psi is.
It will start and run with or with out the lift pump running
there in no difference. It seams like when I let off the throttle something
is over compensating and shutting the fuel off. When it is about to die if I touch the throttle it will come back and idle.

 

[rustystud]

Last night I put a gauge in the line between the filter and HH.
there is a tee with a plug in one end and I put it there.
The gauge I used is not very high quality so it could be off
a few psi but, 7 or 8 psi with the lift pump running
With the engine running the needle is jumping around so fast it is hard to get a good reading.
I will move it to the filter housing and see what the psi is.
It will start and run with or with out the lift pump running
there in no difference. It seams like when I let off the throttle something
is over compensating and shutting the fuel off. When it is about to die if I touch the throttle it will come back and idle.

View attachment Scan0011.pdf
Your saying that between the filters and the Hydraulic Head your getting 7 to 8 psi ? Just so we are all on the same page, your talking about the inlet hose to the Hydraulic Head right ? If so then your pressure is so low that it's crazy. This diagram shows you what the pressure should be. The filters should have around 30 psi (idle) to 70 psi (60 is normal) at 2200 rpm.

 

[jacklegjim]

First off Sorry for confusion Rustystud and thanks for taking time to help me.
Maybe I can explain this better.
With the lift pump running and the engine off I have about 8 psi.
With the engine running the needle on my gauge is jumping around
it is hard to get an exact reading but I would say around 30 psi at idle.
right now my gauge is in the line between the filter outlet and HH inlet. I think my
gauge is jumping because it is so close to the HH. I am out of town
so I will not be able to work on it again until Sunday night or Monday.
I will continue to read TM's and search this site for help to solve this problem.

 

[rustystud]

First off Sorry for confusion Rustystud and thanks for taking time to help me.
Maybe I can explain this better.
With the lift pump running and the engine off I have about 8 psi.
With the engine running the needle on my gauge is jumping around
it is hard to get an exact reading but I would say around 30 psi at idle.
right now my gauge is in the line between the filter outlet and HH inlet. I think my
gauge is jumping because it is so close to the HH. I am out of town
so I will not be able to work on it again until Sunday night or Monday.
I will continue to read TM's and search this site for help to solve this problem.

I think that's part of your problem. The gauge should not be jumping around. It should show a steady pressure. Since it is jumping I think you have a relief valve sticking or something is going on in your boost pump.

 

[silverstate55]

To bar the engine over to watch the valve lifters (and/or to adjust the valves), I usually drain off about 2 gallons of coolant from the radiator petcock drain, disconnect the upper radiator hose & the radiator upper mount, loosen the lower radiator nuts, then push the radiator forward as far as it will go...remove the fan (Four 1/2-inch bolt heads), and typically you should have room to get a barring wrench/tool on the crankshaft (I use a 3/4"-drive ratchet with 1-5/8" socket). And make sure you chock your wheels so you can shift the transmission to Neutral (I seem to forget this everytime, until the barring tool refuses to move & I realize what I forgot to do).

Oh, and also make sure that your engine shutoff cable is engaged before you start; don't let any fuel get to the IP while you're barring it over. It should turn clockwise pretty easily and the valve train movement is pretty obvious, once you remove the forward valve cover. If you've used a clean bucket to catch your coolant & run a coolant filter like I do, you can re-use the coolant when you button things back up again.

HTH.

 

[jacklegjim]

I spent the last two afrternoons pulling the IP and swapping the booster pump with one from the original IP and reinstalling it. I moved the guage to the bleeder port on the filter housing.
I does not run any different and still has the same issue. Fuel psi at idle is 40 psi. Could this be a problem with something inside the IP? Maybe I need to put the good HH on the original IP?
I sure am not looking forward to pulling the IP back off .

 

[rustystud]

I spent the last two afrternoons pulling the IP and swapping the booster pump with one from the original IP and reinstalling it. I moved the guage to the bleeder port on the filter housing.
I does not run any different and still has the same issue. Fuel psi at idle is 40 psi. Could this be a problem with something inside the IP? Maybe I need to put the good HH on the original IP?
I sure am not looking forward to pulling the IP back off .

So you didn't put the good Hydraulic Head on the pump ? I think you should install the known good "HH" on your pump. That way you can eliminate it as a cause of the problems if it still acts up. Or better yet it fixes the problems.