New guy here, just picked up a M103-A3, have a few questions

[jeepwm69]

New here, have posted over on G503 a bit over the years. I'm a Jeep guy (80's era CJ's) and have an M416 and M100 I've picked up over the years to use with the Jeeps.

Last week I picked up an M103-A3 that was a flatbed (generator if I had to guess), and was converted to a fuel trailer by bolting two 120 gal aluminum tanks to the bed and adding a 12V transfer pump.

I bought it with the intentions of keeping it as is. We have land and a couple of tractors so I'll keep using it for off-road diesel. That said, it will be nice to have a super heavy duty trailer if we need it, simply by unbolting the tanks and removing them.

When I went to pick it I i realized the wheels/tires are HUGE. Looking at the brakes, it doesn't look like smaller wheels/tires would really be an option. Anyone found any "bolt on and go" options? I'd like to lower it down a little bit if possible.

If that's not a viable option, I'd like to at least pick up a spare. Anyone know where to source a spare wheel/tire? We'll be using it around the farm, and a few miles at slow speed to the farmer's Co-op and back, so just need it to be "farm ready", not interstate highway ready.

Lastly, landing leg is gone. I'm not concerned with originality on this one, and my M416 has a civilian tongue jack that has a large metal wheel attached to a pretty big tongue jack, and I'd like to find something similar to this. If it were to fit in the hole where the original landing leg bolted up, that would be even better. Anyone found a good commercially available tongue jack for these big trailers?

 

[Ray70]

Welcome to the forum! I've also had several M103-A3 generator trailers in a few different configurations and I know what you mean, the tires and brake drums and lug pattern are huge. Unfortunately I never found anything readily available that would bolt on. As for a spare, there have been several guys in the past giving them away free in the "Pay it Forward" section.
You might also try placing a parts wanted ad to see if you can find one.
you can surely find something for a jack that can be adapted to fit in place of the original one.
Try a local Tractor Supply or Northern Tool.

 

[Mullaney]

New here, have posted over on G503 a bit over the years. I'm a Jeep guy (80's era CJ's) and have an M416 and M100 I've picked up over the years to use with the Jeeps.

Last week I picked up an M103-A3 that was a flatbed (generator if I had to guess), and was converted to a fuel trailer by bolting two 120 gal aluminum tanks to the bed and adding a 12V transfer pump.

I bought it with the intentions of keeping it as is. We have land and a couple of tractors so I'll keep using it for off-road diesel. That said, it will be nice to have a super heavy duty trailer if we need it, simply by unbolting the tanks and removing them.

When I went to pick it I i realized the wheels/tires are HUGE. Looking at the brakes, it doesn't look like smaller wheels/tires would really be an option. Anyone found any "bolt on and go" options? I'd like to lower it down a little bit if possible.

If that's not a viable option, I'd like to at least pick up a spare. Anyone know where to source a spare wheel/tire? We'll be using it around the farm, and a few miles at slow speed to the farmer's Co-op and back, so just need it to be "farm ready", not interstate highway ready.

Lastly, landing leg is gone. I'm not concerned with originality on this one, and my M416 has a civilian tongue jack that has a large metal wheel attached to a pretty big tongue jack, and I'd like to find something similar to this. If it were to fit in the hole where the original landing leg bolted up, that would be even better. Anyone found a good commercially available tongue jack for these big trailers?

.
Welcome to the Outfit!

Happy to have you here. The TM's (Technical Manuals) are here for your trailer.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/trailer/TM9-2330-213-14&P.pdf

Snap up some pictures and possibly post them here to the site. There are a few "picture hounds" here - with me at the front of the viewing line. If you need help getting them posted before you build a thread count - contact one of our Admins or specifically @patracy (for Safety and Security purposes).

 

[juanprado]

Bolster m796 or flatbed m1061 16.5 tires and rims could lower you but scarse and expensive.

Others have ditched the axle with a civy unit.

Square bulldog jack with appropriate rating would work but would mount to the frame not the original and mount needs to be fabricated.

 

[Tinstar]

Welcome to Steel Soldiers!!!!

Unless you plan on driving it on the highway a lot, I would just buy a spare.
You can still buy new NDT tires

I have a M149A1-2 water trailer and it still has the original wheels.
I tow it around ranch and use it quite often in the warmer months.
The larger tires are great off road as they handle the weight really well in the dirt.

A smaller tire, while shorter, sinks in more with its smaller footprint carrying equal amount of weight.

I have a butler creek #5000 side swivel Jack welded to the side of the tongue. Works great and handles the weight just fine.

 

[SCSG-G4]

M103 uses 'standard' 900-20 NDT tube type deuce tires and wheels. Their load capacity as singles is a tad over 4000 pounds and as duals more than 3500 each. Hard to find civilian tires with that weight capacity in a smaller rim.

 

[G744]

I found a set of 15" 6-bolt lowboy wheels at a truck salvage place. Their offset will allow use on the 6-bolt Budd pattern without rubbing.

I bought 9.00-15 lowboy tires (12 ply), they handle more weight than a 9.00-20.

Most of the time they are on a M105 with added sideboards, hauling 1.5 yd of gravel.

Search around, and take your tape measure to check the offset.

 

[jeepwm69]

Thanks for the warm welcome!

This is the trailer as purchased. Has the rear support leg, lunette is there, but the landing leg/wheel is missing.

Obviously the camper shell will be going, but the tanks are nice 120 gal aluminum tanks, so they'll fit the bill for a fuel trailer.

Pulled it home about 100 miles at 50-55MPH, using our 1/2 ton GM pickup. Didn't have any problems with it, although with the tanks full there will be a lot more weight back there.

Honestly given our intended use, picking up a spare would likely be the easiest route. No further than I intend to pull it, I could probably leave the spare at home and run and get it if I have a flat. I just want something so I don't have to abandon the trailer for long to get a tire fixed (or ordered if I get a ruined tire).

I found a set of 15" 6-bolt lowboy wheels at a truck salvage place. Their offset will allow use on the 6-bolt Budd pattern without rubbing.

I bought 9.00-15 lowboy tires (12 ply), they handle more weight than a 9.00-20.

Most of the time they are on a M105 with added sideboards, hauling 1.5 yd of gravel.

Search around, and take your tape measure to check the offset.

15" wheels fit over the drums on one of these trailers? I figured I'd have to have a huge wheel to clear the drums. I have a truck salvage yard here in town and a buddy owns it, so I might be able to get something from him.

 

[Coug]

Trailer tongue weight isn't going to be a huge amount, so I'd say find a 5k rated tongue jack and not worry about it. The original jack assembly adds a LOT of tongue weight and is a bit of a pain in the butt to deal with. Unless you're a purist (and you obviously aren't for this trailer) there is no benefit to it.



considering that the trailer is supposed to have air over hydraulic brakes, the safest solution is replace the axle with one for electric brakes and a modern wheel assembly.

I don't know what you plan to tow it with normally, but as you mentioned the 1/2 ton GMC as what you towed it home with, just thought I'd chime in as the voice of paranoid caution.

Looking up laws, in Arkansas, any trailer over 3k lbs is required to have functional trailer brakes. If it was manufactured before the law went into effect, they must be retrofitted.
Even for just "farm use" if it goes out on the roads at all, there is the risk of getting a ticket for not having the trailer brakes functional.
Empty is around 1700 lbs without the bed or tanks on it. Probably at least 500-800 lbs for them, so call it 2500 lbs or so.
With 200 gallons of diesel in it that's another 1400 lbs.
So you're looking around 4k lbs.

If the tanks are partially full when you go to move it, there will likely be sloshing in the tank, and that can give you a bad day even with working trailer brakes. Without brakes it could potentially cause an accident.


below is just my opinion, so take it as such.
if it were mine, I'd be looking at a heavy duty trailer axle with electric brakes. Probably a 7k rated as there isn't much price difference between them and 5.2k assemblies, but there is a larger jump between 7k and 8k assemblies.

With the 7k axle and 8 bolt hub, you can run common trailer tires, and smaller ones at that. You could also do a drop axle to lower the trailer to be more level with your pickup truck, and lower the center of gravity.
If you went with a 5.2k axle, you have a 6 bolt hub. Not sure what bolt pattern your pickup truck is, but if it's 6 bolt wheels then this might be a viable choice.

These trailer chassis are way overbuilt for the rated weight, as that's a cross country weight rating, so that's another reason I'd do a 7k axle.

You might also check with your buddy at the salvage yard and see if he has any axles you could use.

The 103A3 is listed as air over hydraulic, so you could always just convert it to electric over hydraulic. Issues here though are some brake controllers aren't designed to handle electric over hydraulic assemblies. Another issue is cost. You'l be into the conversion for about the same price as swapping out the axle at that point, so I don't see any benefit unless you plan to tow it with larger vehicles and want to keep both the air over hydraulic and have the electric over hydraulic as well (even more complication/expense)

 

[jeepwm69]

Trailer tongue weight isn't going to be a huge amount, so I'd say find a 5k rated tongue jack and not worry about it. The original jack assembly adds a LOT of tongue weight and is a bit of a pain in the butt to deal with. Unless you're a purist (and you obviously aren't for this trailer) there is no benefit to it.



considering that the trailer is supposed to have air over hydraulic brakes, the safest solution is replace the axle with one for electric brakes and a modern wheel assembly.

I don't know what you plan to tow it with normally, but as you mentioned the 1/2 ton GMC as what you towed it home with, just thought I'd chime in as the voice of paranoid caution.

Looking up laws, in Arkansas, any trailer over 3k lbs is required to have functional trailer brakes. If it was manufactured before the law went into effect, they must be retrofitted.
Even for just "farm use" if it goes out on the roads at all, there is the risk of getting a ticket for not having the trailer brakes functional.
Empty is around 1700 lbs without the bed or tanks on it. Probably at least 500-800 lbs for them, so call it 2500 lbs or so.
With 200 gallons of diesel in it that's another 1400 lbs.
So you're looking around 4k lbs.

If the tanks are partially full when you go to move it, there will likely be sloshing in the tank, and that can give you a bad day even with working trailer brakes. Without brakes it could potentially cause an accident.


below is just my opinion, so take it as such.
if it were mine, I'd be looking at a heavy duty trailer axle with electric brakes. Probably a 7k rated as there isn't much price difference between them and 5.2k assemblies, but there is a larger jump between 7k and 8k assemblies.

With the 7k axle and 8 bolt hub, you can run common trailer tires, and smaller ones at that. You could also do a drop axle to lower the trailer to be more level with your pickup truck, and lower the center of gravity.
If you went with a 5.2k axle, you have a 6 bolt hub. Not sure what bolt pattern your pickup truck is, but if it's 6 bolt wheels then this might be a viable choice.

These trailer chassis are way overbuilt for the rated weight, as that's a cross country weight rating, so that's another reason I'd do a 7k axle.

You might also check with your buddy at the salvage yard and see if he has any axles you could use.

The 103A3 is listed as air over hydraulic, so you could always just convert it to electric over hydraulic. Issues here though are some brake controllers aren't designed to handle electric over hydraulic assemblies. Another issue is cost. You'l be into the conversion for about the same price as swapping out the axle at that point, so I don't see any benefit unless you plan to tow it with larger vehicles and want to keep both the air over hydraulic and have the electric over hydraulic as well (even more complication/expense)

Eh, where I live I am 0% concerned about LEO messing with me on this trailer. This would be one of the safer rigs rolling around here, when one looks at what most of the farmers are running up and down the roads. That said, with full tanks I'd probably be rolling at a snail's pace from Co-op to farm shop with flashers on, just because I know that trailer loaded down could likely push my truck around on the road.

We do have a flatbed trailer that a local guy made (he has a trailer manufacturing business) and it has electric brakes on a 7K axle, so maybe I should look into that and see what the cost would be to get another axle and bolt it in. The salvage yard buddy is semis only. He doesn't really mess with anything else.

 

[G744]

AN air horn compressor/tank and a Johnny bar control will let you use the great O-over-H brakes on your trailer.

Pretty simple.

 

[Tinstar]

Anyone found a good commercially available tongue jack for these big trailers?

This is the Jack I have mounted on 2 M101A2s and this M149A1A
5k rating and handles the water trailer fully loaded with ease.
The local farm store, Attwoods, sells them.

The tongue modification was done by the Oklahoma Forestry agency.

Works perfect for the CUCV and the Jack is an absolute necessity.
The tongue wheel spins and pivots freely

Edit:
Will be painting Jack next warm day.

 

[G744]

I just use a Hi-Lift.

 

[kblazer87]

17" or 19.5" rims and tires from an Isuzu NPR 6 lug truck or Chevy/GMC equivalent W series will fit that axle. Same for the Mitsubishi Fuso 6 lugs.

 

[jeepwm69]

Thanks for the replies. I think a place in Memphis might have spare wheels/tires (saw another 1.5 ton trailer, asked the seller where he got the new tires/wheels on it) so going to see if I can get some locally.

I also need to get a pic of the jack on my M416, as that's what I'd kinda like to get for this one if I can figure out what it came off of.