New guy - lift question

[japickar]

I am going to install a 6" lift on my M1008 in a couple of weeks and have a steering question.

After looking through several old threads, it seems that the general consensus is that crossover steering is an almost must if you are going to be running a 4" or larger lift. I was planning on going with a steering block as the guy I bought the truck from uses them and a drop pitman arm and they run 10" lifts and 44" boggers along with high horsepower big blocks in their M1008's. He said that the only problem he ever had using a steering block was the studs backing out on him one time and he fixed it with loctite and never had another issue. These guys are not easy on their trucks by any means and I will definately not be as hard on mine as they are on theirs.

My plan is to run 37" Humvee tires with the lift. My truck will definately be wheeled some, but most of our wheeling consists of mud and some hills, so no rock crawling.

Will I be fine with the steering block for now, or should I start saving for crossover steering?

 

[86m1028]

I have done both in the past.
Dont wast your time or money on the block & drop pitman arm.
Crossover with a track bar is the best way to go.

 

[Matt65]

I'm running a drop pittman with the Hummer radials on 4" lift. Check out the link in my signature for details. In the end, for me, it came down to how much money I wanted to spend.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[Sharecropper]

I am currently lifting my M1028 5" and will use the drop pitman from Off Road Designs and a steering block from Rough Country. Each repositions the steering approximately 2-1/2", so this will keep the drag link level. As long as you take it easy in the rocks this will work fine. I ran this setup for 10 years on a 1985 civi K30 and had no problem whatsoever. If you plan hard off-roading and rock-crawling, crossover is the only way to go. Keep in mind, however, that with crossover, you will also need to purchase a 2WD steering box and pitman. ORD has these ready for purchase. Always use red LocTite.

 

[ODdave]

Ok, I will let the secret out........ There is a CHEAP cross over to be had.

 

[ThunderOne]

Ok, I will let the secret out........ There is a CHEAP cross over to be had.

 

[ODdave]

Parts needed,

-94-02 dodge truck pitman arm = $5-15 Junkyard

-Aftermarket steering arm Blank or finished = +/- $50 Ebay

-Drag link (tube style adjuster not split collar) from 80's chevy 4x4 = +/- $10 junkyard
2wd gearbox from 80's chevy truck (or if your good you can use the sector shaft from that dodge you got the arm from ) =$ varies

-the most expensive part is the 7degree tapered ream but its a tool so it dosnt count as an expense in my book. Can be had from speedway motors for around $60

Pretty cut and dry how to do it, I will post pics and instructions soon as i am doing this on my 1028 right now , and have done this to other trucks with great success.

 

[japickar]

Thanks for the replies. For now I am going to use the steering block and drop pitman arm and see how it goes. I can always upgrade in the future. This cheap crossover is intriguing though....

 

[Cucvnut]

crossover will make you happier. I have had trucks with both styles and even in light wheeling you will want cross over.

 

[ODdave]

here a few pics of the peices, I only get about 1 hour after work to do stuff before it gets dark so i will have to wait to get more pics of it installed. You can use the original Tie rod ends you removed for this to save a few bucks (if they are still good)

 

[ThunderOne]

What else is needed to do after lifting the M1009 higher than 4 inches? I have heard extending the driveshaft, but would you not just drop the carrier bearing some and shim the pinion angle? That's what's the norm on my Tacoma at least.

Let me know what else needs to be done, I like the 4" lift with 37s, but I think 6" with 37s might be better.

 

[ODdave]

What else is needed to do after lifting the M1009 higher than 4 inches? I have heard extending the driveshaft, but would you not just drop the carrier bearing some and shim the pinion angle? That's what's the norm on my Tacoma at least.

Let me know what else needs to be done, I like the 4" lift with 37s, but I think 6" with 37s might be better.

no carrier brg on these

 

[ThunderOne]

no carrier brg on these

Okay, so what about shimming, extending the driveshaft? Anything else needed to be done past 4"?

 

[Cucvnut]

I would just extend your d shafts

 

[ThunderOne]

I would just extend your d shafts

It just seems weird that the Chevy people don't want to fix their pinion angles while they are at it..

 

[ODdave]

The lift alredy has a shim in it, springs or blocks. Us dumb chevy ppl figured that one out when we designed the lift. lol.
One common thing on the blazer is to take the spacers on the trans crosmember and move them from atop the frome and place them between the crossmember and frame.

 

[Cucvnut]

Depends owhat else you need to fix your issue but why do you want to degree so much when you can do it the right way and fix your d shafts.

 

[ODdave]

LMAO !!!! just looked at ORD's crossover steering $440 ............... Wait till you see my "LOW-BUCK" pics from mine tomarrow.......Man i cant stop laughing. Its actualy the first time i looked at an aftermarket kit, Kind of hard to belive being the first one i did myself was in 2003.....

 

[ThunderOne]

The lift alredy has a shim in it, springs or blocks. Us dumb chevy ppl figured that one out when we designed the lift. lol.
One common thing on the blazer is to take the spacers on the trans crosmember and move them from atop the frome and place them between the crossmember and frame.

That is good that they shim them, however I have seen some lifted Blazers and the pinion is WAY off.

Mine explaining the trans xmember thing a little better?

 

[ODdave]

What is WAY off? you do NOT want the pinoin to be straight with the drive shaft.

There are 4 boults that attach the crossmember to the frame, they are about 1.25 inches longer than needed and have a spacer to take up that extra. The bolts go from the bottom up and the spacer is on the nut side, above the frame rail. Remove the 4 bolts and place the spacers between the frame and x-member, reinstall the bolts. This drops the t-case a lil for no cost at all.

There is another trick to but it requiers new d-shafts as stated before. You can use a rear housing and output shaft from a dodge with a fixed rear yoke. Gives you room for a longer shaft.