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New liners/pistons... Honing and other questions

merlot566jka

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ID or TX or OK
Hey guys,

About to rebuild my engine, have all the parts in hand and have been studying the manual. Old versions for the lds-427 mentions honing the liners after install. Yet the newer manuals for the ldt and lds-465 do not mention honing. I pulled out one of the new liners from the box and they are not honed already. So, I assume, I need to hone them before putting pistons in.

I started looking at the dingle berry like hones, took me a while to find a correct size, and now I need to pick out what type of material and grit to use on the hone. It mentions using oem ring manufacture reccomendations based on the type of ring. So I have searched and searched, but I cannot find anything saying what kind of rings our engines have or what the recommendations are for honing. Does anyone know?

Also currious if anyone has had to use a hydraulic puller to remove the sleeves or if they just pop out after a few taps from the bottom? In the manual it shows the hydraulic tool to remove and install, but talking to people who have re-sleeved an engine, they say it take a little force and then it will pop right out with ease.

Thanks for any help and if anyone has pointers that they learned when they rebuilt theirs, I would love to hear it.

Oh, and these are the newer LDS sleeve kits with the 3 ring piston that is coated on top.
 

wrenchturner6238

Active member
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On the pulling the liner (not on the LDS) but other diesels I have used a jack and an extension to reach the liner and Jacket it out. I am not an expert on these engines but in any cylinder you want some cross hatch on the liner or your rings will not seat. As to the grit not sure there will probably be others that chime in.
 

merlot566jka

Member
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Location
ID or TX or OK
I have built a few gas engines and am familiar with honing, just wanted some more info on our rings and others' experience.

I figured a bottle jack may be an option as well. Was kind of hoping it would be easy, but with an interference fit, I dont expect it to be too easy!
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
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Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
You don't want to use anything with grit when you hone them. The hone itself has all the grit it needs. Just use 30w motor oil as the honing lubricant. The hone, and oil is all you need. All cylinders should be honed unless they are chrome lined. The multifuel liners are not chrome lined. Pull the heads off and spin the motor over and the liners will come out when the pistons push them up.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
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Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
TM 9-2815-204-35 page 205
d. Honing. New cylinder liners must be honed
to 4.3125 to 4.3145-inches. Refer to repair and
rebuild standards (par. 292). Lower end of bore
must be 0.0000 to 0.0005-inch larger than top
end after honing. Scratch pattern should be 90
to 120 degrees. Surface roughness should be
25 to 40 micro-inches after final honing.
 

merlot566jka

Member
360
0
16
Location
ID or TX or OK
The grit I referred to was the grit of the hone itself, 120, 180, 220, 240, 320, 400 are the options on the site. As well as material, aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, boron... Etc etc. I've always used oil when honing.

Awesome advice of just turning the engine over! I hadn't thought of that.
 

cattlerepairman

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IMG_20151012_111059.jpgIMG_20151012_120351.jpg

Here is my five cents:
I cut as liner-sized hole into some 1/2 inch plywood to hold the liner securely. In the first pic, the liner is actually stuck in that hole in the plywood. I held a can of WD-40 in one hand and sprayed into the liner, then honed with a power drill and the attached hone in the other hand. I started spraying before the hone touched the liner only stopped spraying after the hone was back out of the liner.

I just honed enough to see the criss-cross marks and the suface looked uniform. Finger nail test - finger nail does not catch on any surface imperfections or ridges. Removing material should be at a minimum. On the second pic you can see that there are some discolourations left - they could not be felt, so I decided not to remove more material.

Some liners indeed came out by turning the engine over. For the others, I used a broom handle, cut a piece off the bottom for a sharp edge, stuck the broom handle in from the bottom end of the engine, caught the edge of the liner with the sharp edge of the broom handle and persuaded it out with a rubber mallet.
 
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