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New LMTV owner

FarmingSmallKubota

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worked more tonight trying to get those 3 lights in. pretty frustrated. would it be a crazy idea to pull the sway bar off so i have room to get in there. my arms are just not long enough coming from behind the sway bar and i have hit my head on some sharp angle iron for the last time. any kind of tension on that sway bar if i pull the 6 bolts out?
 

GeneralDisorder

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worked more tonight trying to get those 3 lights in. pretty frustrated. would it be a crazy idea to pull the sway bar off so i have room to get in there. my arms are just not long enough coming from behind the sway bar and i have hit my head on some sharp angle iron for the last time. any kind of tension on that sway bar if i pull the 6 bolts out?
The upper sway bar bushings are a BEAR to replace with new ones. Might not be an issue to bolt/unbolt it with the old bushings but new ones are an absolute MONSTER to get the bolts back in.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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So between bad weather, life and just frustration been putting off working on the truck. I did get the new upper bushing kit in mail and will be taking the sway bar off in hopes of reaching those last three red lights on the truck. tonight i got my arm work out in and jacked the cab up by hand since i still dont have the pump fixed and replaced the last 5 marker lights on the roof. Had hoped to drive the truck to Findlay for the Armed forces days, but maybe next year.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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nothing like almost 2 months of staring at the truck wanting it to fix itself. Well today the weather was 70 degrees, low humidity, clouds blocking the sun, wife was available and willing to hand me stuff, and i had the right tools. Pulled the rear sway bar off and rolled it down out of the way. installed and had to remove the rear lights because the wire was on backwards on the back of the light fun fun. Finally got all the bolts in and lights working so went back to install new upper sway bar bushings. Previous repair by the military no washers and i think they had bushings for shocks in there instead. Metal bushing with rubber and an inner metal bushing. So i used the new ones from DPequipment. I smeared them with Brake slide grease since it does not affect rubber. took the lower ones off, cleaned the rust up. They looked new except nothing had been cleaned when they were changed I also lubed those up with the permatex silglide stuff as well. since the sway bar is very heavy i used a roller chain come along hooked to the rear shackle to pull it up in place much easier and safer than the initial idea of using a jack. never seized the bolts and tightened everything up. you will need 30mm for upper bushings, 16mm for bolt side of lower bushing and 18mm for nut side.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
The upper sway bar bushings are a BEAR to replace with new ones. Might not be an issue to bolt/unbolt it with the old bushings but new ones are an absolute MONSTER to get the bolts back in.
I thought it was pretty easy. maybe because i had the sway bar swung out of the way. I had more trouble with those 3 little lights across the back than i did with that sway bar. i put one washer in slid the bolt in and then from the top slid the other washer on the other side and i could angle the whole bracket to get the space needed. If i did not have the bottom disconnected i could see how this would have been more difficult.
 

Third From Texas

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Corpus Christi Texas
nothing like almost 2 months of staring at the truck wanting it to fix itself. Well today the weather was 70 degrees, low humidity, clouds blocking the sun, wife was available and willing to hand me stuff, and i had the right tools. Pulled the rear sway bar off and rolled it down out of the way. installed and had to remove the rear lights because the wire was on backwards on the back of the light fun fun. Finally got all the bolts in and lights working so went back to install new upper sway bar bushings. Previous repair by the military no washers and i think they had bushings for shocks in there instead. Metal bushing with rubber and an inner metal bushing. So i used the new ones from DPequipment. I smeared them with Brake slide grease since it does not affect rubber. took the lower ones off, cleaned the rust up. They looked new except nothing had been cleaned when they were changed I also lubed those up with the permatex silglide stuff as well. since the sway bar is very heavy i used a roller chain come along hooked to the rear shackle to pull it up in place much easier and safer than the initial idea of using a jack. never seized the bolts and tightened everything up. you will need 30mm for upper bushings, 16mm for bolt side of lower bushing and 18mm for nut side.
Doo you have the part numbers for the bushing set that you used?
 

GeneralDisorder

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I thought it was pretty easy. maybe because i had the sway bar swung out of the way. I had more trouble with those 3 little lights across the back than i did with that sway bar. i put one washer in slid the bolt in and then from the top slid the other washer on the other side and i could angle the whole bracket to get the space needed. If i did not have the bottom disconnected i could see how this would have been more difficult.
Those tapered ones are easy, I'm talking about the upper BAR bushings. These guys:

 

GeneralDisorder

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I think people usually refer to the bushings you linked as the "lower" bushings, and those in the eyelets of the bar as the "uppers".
General convention would be to refer to the one's at the axle as the lower bushing, the one's at the bar as the upper bushing, and the one's at the body as the bracket bushing.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
For Post #172
3 PAOZZ 19207 12419029 WASHER,FLAT M35.................... 4
4 PAOZZ 81860 25951-1 MOUNT,RESILIENT..................... 4
5 PAOZZ 19207 12419026 BUSHING,SLEEVE...................... 2
 
Last edited:

FarmingSmallKubota

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Wapakoneta, Ohio
I have made several post with part numbers and terminology from the TM so no need to discuss further. I did after looking at the parts break down realize the stabilizer bushings are what had been put in place of the correct parts that consist of these
3 PAOZZ 19207 12419029 WASHER,FLAT M35.................... 4
4 PAOZZ 81860 25951-1 MOUNT,RESILIENT..................... 4
5 PAOZZ 19207 12419026 BUSHING,SLEEVE...................... 2
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Location
Wapakoneta, Ohio
Its been a while since i worked on the truck, have a bunch of parts odds and ends to install. did not get the air bags on yet, but I did get a surprise find part from Gov Planet. Light Material Handling Crane, new in what was left of the crate. 3 sold i was lucky enough to buy the last one. Its a heavy bugger to install by yourself, but i did manage to get it together. I stopped this summer when it was hot and today decided i would finish. Everything works here are my questions.
1) i can not find a picture or diagram of where the Breaker box mounts. I assume it stays on the outside of the truck all the time and you just unplug the cord
2) does anyone actually use the ratcheting pivot or just pull the pin out so its free to rotate? i have both the long and short handle.
Pictures tomorrow when its light outside.
 

flyfishtrailer

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Location
Cool, CA
Its been a while since i worked on the truck, have a bunch of parts odds and ends to install. did not get the air bags on yet, but I did get a surprise find part from Gov Planet. Light Material Handling Crane, new in what was left of the crate. 3 sold i was lucky enough to buy the last one. Its a heavy bugger to install by yourself, but i did manage to get it together. I stopped this summer when it was hot and today decided i would finish. Everything works here are my questions.
1) i can not find a picture or diagram of where the Breaker box mounts. I assume it stays on the outside of the truck all the time and you just unplug the cord
2) does anyone actually use the ratcheting pivot or just pull the pin out so its free to rotate? i have both the long and short handle.
Pictures tomorrow when its light outside.

Awesome find on the crane. Did GP have an NSN for that kit or was it just the kit number of 57K1215 ? I missed them if they just auctioned off three and need to know how GP listed it so I can accurately search for more.
 
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