New M1009 CUCV owner!!

[cucv1833]

Small oil leak from under the harmonic balancer where the crossmember is nice and juicy with oil buildup and sludge.. Almost seems it is coming from the oil pan gasket? Maybe try and tighten the bolts a touch and see if that takes care of

Also have most of the parts for the mil antenna install ab15 and ms 116-118 sections and tip. Gotta make a plate for the ab15 to mount to the truck bracket then install my cobra, speaker and PA.. Hehe

Sounds like you need a front crankshaft seal. If so might want to change the balancer while your there. I had the same problem just did this a few days ago and no more leak.

 

[andytk5]

Sounds like you need a front crankshaft seal. If so might want to change the balancer while your there. I had the same problem just did this a few days ago and no more leak.

Good point, considering it should be about $30-$40 for the balancer I may as well do it since I plan to drive this allot. Had one go out on a 85 gas K5 and sounded like it was coming apart while it ate the key and keyway on the snout! Thanks for the advice.

 

[andytk5]

Haven't had a chance to get under the truck yet but took a few minutes to put on my antenna setup. This will be wired to an old Cobra CB.

 

[andytk5]

Alright, along with figuring out what the **** I did to screw up my deuce putting the HH back in.. that's finally all worked out thanks to Horst, Gimpyrob and Greg.

Hooked up the CB and PA to the antenna. Seems like I'm picking up I-95 which is at least 12mi away which I though was far for an untuned setup (swr in the mail).

Heres's some pics, painted the cases with 686. Prob do the same ant on the deuce with a cheapy CB.

 

[Pballer71]

Where did you get the antenna from and for how much i have no idea where to find them?

 

[andytk5]

Where did you get the antenna from and for how much i have no idea where to find them?

There are other sources but personally i have used Saturn Surplus and Fair Radio. The mast sections can be had for $5-10 each (there are 3, ms116-117-11 and I used the ab-15/gn base since it was pretty cheap an still authentic. That I found from $15-30. Then just added a tip for s/g's

There are other bases and masts but this works. Hope that helps.

Side note for any radio gurus. Would there be any issues with adding a mobile ham using another identical antenna to the other side of the truck?

 

[Pballer71]

Thank you

 

[andytk5]

In addition to my front end leak I have a small leak from the tailshaft f the T case. Should be a couple of easy fixes.

 

[Alabama Mike]

Your trucks looking good, I just got mine this past weekend, I hope it turns out as good as yours has, keep up the good work!!!

 

[andytk5]

Your trucks looking good, I just got mine this past weekend, I hope it turns out as good as yours has, keep up the good work!!!

Thanks man. It's been a little work but serious mech work. Mainly cleaning/painting. I had a few K5's before this so it's pretty easy.

Now to see how this guy runs on motor oil and diesel, maybe even some atf...

 

[tankie88]

For rust proofing i always use diesel/old motor oil mix and spray the whole underneath of my blazer.I also do the same for the inside of the rocker panels,after popping the rubber buffers off on the door frame.

 

[andytk5]

For rust proofing i always use diesel/old motor oil mix and spray the whole underneath of my blazer.I also do the same for the inside of the rocker panels,after popping the rubber buffers off on the door frame.

That's a great idea. I do it on my boat trailer. I like the rocker panel idea too. Waiting to put in a/c after this crazy heat wave passes. Truck has been sitting idle for a little bit getting a little paint touch up. Love to put some correct markings on it with a little personal touch.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

For rust proofing i always use diesel/old motor oil mix and spray the whole underneath of my blazer.I also do the same for the inside of the rocker panels,after popping the rubber buffers off on the door frame.

Okay, that's really not politically correct!

Bet it works well!


I find trans fluid does a great job. Doesn't smell, either.

A 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone is a great penetrating oil, too. Much better than commercial products.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Side note for any radio gurus. Would there be any issues with adding a mobile ham using another identical antenna to the other side of the truck?

Depends on what band you'd be running. If it's far enough away in freq, no problem. For example, a 440 rig should be no problem at all. Might be a bit dicey if you are running 10 meter. They are next door frequency neighbors and the energy from one will bleed into the other. If it's strong enough, there may be enough energy to damage the other radio's receiver.

You'd have to have the specs on the units and antennas, and do some calcs to be sure, but offhand, I wouldn't recommend running 10 meter that close to a CB.

But that's just off the top of my head. Maybe someone who has done it can chime in.

If you have a footwarmer on either one, even without doing any calcs I'd say you'll fry a front end.

 

[andytk5]

Depends on what band you'd be running. If it's far enough away in freq, no problem. For example, a 440 rig should be no problem at all. Might be a bit dicey if you are running 10 meter. They are next door frequency neighbors and the energy from one will bleed into the other. If it's strong enough, there may be enough energy to damage the other radio's receiver.

You'd have to have the specs on the units and antennas, and do some calcs to be sure, but offhand, I wouldn't recommend running 10 meter that close to a CB.

But that's just off the top of my head. Maybe someone who has done it can chime in.

If you have a footwarmer on either one, even without doing any calcs I'd say you'll fry a front end.

Wow, thanks man. Maybe I'll just put the ham in the deuce and call it good. Thanks for the info!

 

[andytk5]

Here are some pics of the fuel filter that came on this truck. Some guys were asking for some close up pics.

 

[andytk5]

So I am taking care of that leak at the front of the engine, def the front seal on the oiil pan, and I have come across some other issues. If I have the pan off to do new pan seals I figured I might as well swap out the oil pump for a new one and do the rear main seal while I am there.

Took off the rear main cap and the bearing surface looks wiped and scarred, pics at the bottom. Also when inserting the rear main seal some off the seal sliced off the tip of both halves when I slid them in.. wtf... Anyone have similar stupidity? I might also pick up a spare to rebuild so if this one poops out then I can drop her in later.
70k miles on it.

Also it's hard to find the oil dipstick tube oring.. Jeez.

 

[andytk5]

Got everything but the pan back in, new rear main seal using the plastic guide...

Tq'd the bolts to 40ftlbs- 110ft inner 100ft outer, 60ft on the oil pump bolt. Laid down the anaerobic sealer on the rear main cap, oiled up the bearings and offset the rear main seal as per TM. Tapped it in and tightened the cap down. Looking to finish painting the pan since it had rust on it. Was able to find appropriate orings for the dipstick.

Also found the elec kickdown wire was unplugged but also cut. I am tryingt o trace it down so I can wire in a new one. Also my oil psi switch was disconnected and set off to the side (reconnected it), there is also a loose connection (blue wire) hanging under my master cylinder on the drivers side of the motor? There isn't anywhere else for it to connect to.

 

[andytk5]

Finished the bottom end stuff and it runs great. Primed it before I started it at the vacuum drive. No leaks and fresh oil and filter with a quart of the lucas oil conditioner.


Changed all the belts, swapped in new goodyear radiator hoses. Flushed the radiator, new coolant.

I have a proper CDR valve on order to replace the GHETTO setup (pic) it came with.. Ill post up the number for it when I get it. I'd like to keep that new rear main seal intact.

Couple questions.

The orange kickdown wire is cut coming of the trans, not sure if it runs to the injection pump or the accel pedal. Currently reading a bunch of posts about it. I have some pics of the wire and inj pump area and pedal switch.

There are a couple of loose connections in the engine bay that I took pics of if anyone wants to take a stab at them. The blue wire connection is over the driver side valve cover coming of the fire wall. The other 2 are on the pass side behind the valve cover one is large black, the other is 2 wire white.

Read through alot of posts about the Volt meter and came across many talking about fuses being out. I have checked the main ones that wwere listed but came across a single opening "V/MTR" that looks like a single spade goes into it but I have no idea.

 

[andytk5]

Popped out the instrument cluster to repair the squeaking speedo and cleaned it up while I was there. Gotta love that flexible circuiton the back of the case.. High Tech stuff, lol.

Anyhow greased the cable coming in and also wd40'd the speedo unit on the backof the dial real well. Reassembled and no more spqueak!

Painted the core support and the air cleaned. Also prob going to place my guages under the dash for now.