New M1009 owner looking for parts.

[Sine Metu]

Hello all,

Bought an 1984 M1009 about a month ago, had some issues that needed work and took care of the more important ones. =) Anyways I have been unable to hunt down a 24V front passenger side blackout light. I was wondering if anyone could direct me to a site or somewhere I could purchase one? I would also be interested in purchasing one off of anyone that is scrapping their CUCV. Also I am looking to (over time) installing as close to the original military CB radio as possible? any good places I could look to find what I need to do that, and what type Antenna I need that mounts onto the bracket? Thanks

P.S. word of advice to anyone looking to purchase CUCV, check the transfer case and both differential oil levels!!! mine, all three together barely had 16ounces of oil and I drove about 200-300 miles like that before checking...luckily they didn't freeze up! I put synthetic in them and its been running fine since...hopefully I wont have further problems!

 

[67_C-30]

Welcome to the board. As far as the blackout lights, you can usually find them on ebay. There is a rear one on there now, but they come up quite bit, front and rear.

MILITARY M880 CUCV M1008 M1009 REAR BLACKOUT LIGHT 12V: eBay Motors (item 190422271161 end time Jul-29-10 18:00:00 PDT)


As far as the radio, the military trucks used FM radios like the one pictured. Some people retrofit CB's in there, but they aren't correct.

There is US Army CB made by Cobra thatt is OD green and looks pretty cool, but I could do without the decals.

 

[HAWKMAN]

When you get to putting in the radios I have bases and whips, also have RT 524 and 442 but they are functioning and not for gutting. Your looking for a B/O in the front bumper? I'll take a look and post results later, welcome to SS site...much good info and people!!

 

[chief1983]

No one's still made it clear whether the 12V light is supposed to work in the Chevy CUCV or not, as the Wiki still states it's a 24V light and explicitly incompatible with the M880 light. I have been meaning to test the actual voltage across the light but haven't had time to dig out my multimeter, and fixing my rear seal leak is now my current priority. But, if I find that multimeter I'll be sure to verify this once and for all.

 

[HAWKMAN]

Sine Metu,
I've got the BO light for right front...PM me.......

 

[chief1983]

Happen to have a rear 1009 BO light too?

Mine was snipped at the housing somehow.

 

[Sine Metu]

okay I pulled the one bad BO light and tried it on the driver side to see if it was a wiring problem...it is not. then I tested tested for voltage, with the engine turned off and the BO system on I was getting 12.7V, then when I turn the engine on and touch the voltmeter to the wires it hits 14V then just counts down to 0....it did it for both sides? not really sure what that means. For instance, are the lights 12V themselves but split off of a 24V main wire (i.e. you got 24V going to both rear and front but they split for the lights)?

 

[chief1983]

Interesting. I guess that means they are 12V lights. They're not split like you think probably, they're just on an independent parallel branch off of the 12V main circuit. There's an entire part of the M1009 electrical system designed to provide 'civvy' 12V power to various components of the vehicle, which is why it's called a hybrid 12V/24V system. It appears the blackouts are on this 12V system as well.

Not related to your blackouts: I'm not sure how it works, I've read something about a resistor bank on the firewall behind the IP, but I don't know much more than that. I do know, it's recommended to use that, as opposed to a direct feed off of one battery, as the existing 12V supply will balance the load between both batteries evenly. Only other option I've heard is to feed from one battery directly for more 12V power but install some sort of drain equalizer device that makes the batteries keep the same charge.

Back to the lights: Looks like I'll be buying one of those rear BOs on Ebay after all. Wiki page might need to be updated as well, as it would appear the lights are in fact 12V and not 24V as it states.

I may have been misled on a couple of accounts, I've only had my CUCV for a couple months but I've been reading everything I can to figure out this interesting little beast.

 

[Sine Metu]

Chief1983,

Yea, everything I have read says these should be 24V but yea I have no clue now...time for more research! =)....

As for the resistor bank I'm not sure...pardon my ignorance, but what is the IP?

 

[Sine Metu]

Also Chief1983, let me know what you voltage is when you get the chance to test it, I'm curious as to what other CUCV's are testing...

 

[doghead]

The "resistor bank" is behind the air filter housing, on the firewall. It is ONLY used to supply the glow plugs.

 

[chief1983]

IP = Injection Pump. I'd familiarize yourself with the basics of what separates the 6.2's Stanadyne DB2 IP from other types like direct injection diesels. Don't worry, 2 months ago I was wondering the same thing

 

[chief1983]

It is ONLY used to supply the glow plugs.

Thanks for clearing that up. Then, where does other 12V equipment get power?

 

[Barrman]

You guys really need to read the -20 and study the wiring diagrams in the appendix at the back of the -20.

24V is used for the starting system. The rest of the truck is 12V. There is some cross contamination at the fuse box, starter relay, glow plug resistor and part of the alternator circuits. But, those all have to do with the starting the engine and keeping the batteries at 24V total. If it has nothing to do with making the truck start, it will be 12V.

12.6 engine off is a perfect front battery fully charged. 14.4 engine running is what the drivers side alternator should be keeping the front battery at.

Have you tried the lights on a bench with a known 12V supply and put a test light or volt meter on the wiring?

 

[chief1983]

You're right that I do need to study that better. I did take a look at the schematics today, but I'm still confused where the 12V actually comes from. In just the blackout schematic, the best I can tell is the source for them is the fuse box, so it makes it seem that the fuse box itself has a 12V supply?

 

[Sine Metu]

24V is used for the starting system. The rest of the truck is 12V. There is some cross contamination at the fuse box, starter relay, glow plug resistor and part of the alternator circuits. But, those all have to do with the starting the engine and keeping the batteries at 24V total. If it has nothing to do with making the truck start, it will be 12V.

12.6 engine off is a perfect front battery fully charged. 14.4 engine running is what the drivers side alternator should be keeping the front battery at.

Have you tried the lights on a bench with a known 12V supply and put a test light or volt meter on the wiring?

If just the starter is 24v whats the point of having a system like that? I mean normal diesels are 12v starters so why not have this one also?

Thank you for the voltage specs, no I haven't tried bench testing, I thought about it but the one BO light worked fine so I figured just testing the bad one on the good wiring would tell me if it was the light or the wiring..

 

[Barrman]

The military went to a standard of 24V after WWII. That way any vehicle can jump start any other vehicle. Any radio can be put in any other vehicle.

Can you imagine the troubles, expense and danger of having a 12V truck and people trying to jump start them with 24V trucks? Not to mention that the mission of a military vehicle is to move NOW. Burned up starters, alternators, batteries and basically everything electrical on the truck would have happened a lot.

Making the slave cable procedure the same for all vehicles really helps factor out Soldier C and his idiot helper.

The M715 was a designed from scratch 24 V truck. It replaced the 24 V designed from scratch M37. When the military lost most of its budget at the end of Vietnam. They needed light 1-1-1/2 ton trucks. Purpose built trucks were expensive. So, the Dodge M880 was the first CUCV. It was a 12V truck with another alternator added so it could be 24V started and slaved.

The Chevy CUCV trucks are just the same with GM parts.

 

[HAWKMAN]

Happen to have a rear 1009 BO light too?

Mine was snipped at the housing somehow.

I'll take a looksie today and let you know.

 

[Sine Metu]

sweet thanks for the info...Definitely makes sense