New M1010 CUCV, power steering Q's...

[fitz]

Any chance that one of the locking hubs is sticking?. If you need to borrow a jack, I'm in Braintree.

 

[Skinny]

That would not be good for the front diff if the PO retained the LSD during the gear swap.

 

[squaretaper]

Skinny- I don't understand- what would the danger be with the LSD?

Fitz- I may have to hit you up. You have a CUCV?

 

[fitz]

I have a M1028 that I drive daily in the nice weather.
It's a clean truck from North Carolina.
I also have a few rusty New England trucks that I keep around for parts.

 

[timarr]

SQUARETAPER, At advanced auto gear box with core charge its 168.00 . use coupon trt41 for discount and after you return the core the gearbox is only 73.00 plus tax!

 

[rickf]

If you go with one of the local auto store steering boxes for cheap just remember that you get what you pay for. I would use a Red head reman box myself. The steering boxes are NOT all the same between the 10 through the 30 series. Mechanically they will all fit but the internals are different in the heavier trucks. Another good reason to use Redhead. You tell them what you have and they send you what you need, with a lot more than a 30 day warranty. Your truck, your choice. I am also curious as to why a LS in the front after 3.73's is bad. With the hubs unlocked the front diff is moot point. As long as the front gearing was changed to match the rear there will be no issues.

 

[Skinny]

If one hub is sticking and you have a front LSD, the spiders and clutch packs may have been damaged. Just something to check. A sticking hub with an open diff although bad is not the end of the world, the spiders just rotate around each other and the opposite axle shafts rotates in reverse. Most modern trucks do this as a way to disconnect the driveline. With a limited slip, she will melt down pretty fast in that scenario.

 

[rickf]

If one hub is sticking and the other is unlocked and you have a limited slip the only thing that is going to happen is the side opposite the sticking hub will rotate at the same speed forward as the locked hub and the spiders will not turn at all. No damage will be done. One good point is being made here and that is to check the hubs and make sure they are clean and lubed and that all the parts are there.

 

[Skinny]

How do you figure no damage will occur?

All the diff manufacturers that make LSD's specify not to install in a front axle with a disconnect. That is the same situation that would occur if a single hub was sticking. Say what you will but damage may occur not to mention a decent steering pull.

 

[rickf]

Think about this. The clutches in the differential will want to spin the opposite wheel, just like it would if it were jacked up and you spun one tire the other would spin the same way. Same thing on the ground and driving. There is no resistance in turning the other axle. It will also turn the drive shaft, again, very little resistance. You may feel a slight pull to one side but I doubt it. I run slugs for hubs in my Jeep due to grenading to many hubs. I also run a locker in the front. I have blown a u-joint in one axle and three wheeled all day and then drove home many miles with no issues at all, no pulling. They have come to the conclusion that there is so little gained by using locking hubs that few companies use them or the axle disconnects anymore.
I do agree that the manufacturers say not to put a LS in with a disconnect. That is more of a CYA thing than anything plus if you are putting a LS in the front you should already know to disable the disconnect. I am not disagreeing with the reasons, just the end result.

 

[Skinny]

Aside from the pulling being an issue, a full locker will more than likely just stay engaged and cause no harm. Although a cheapo pocket locker may get angry and try to ratchet. Any type of LSD whether cone, gear, or clutch will try to spin internally. Depending on how much drag occurs, it may rotate. Better safe than sorry.

 

[squaretaper]

I gotta admit, most of this is over my head. I spun the forward driveshaft by hand, seems the pass side axle spins but not the DS and assume that's normal. I don't think either hub is sticking, though the DS hub has been replaced with a similar but slightly different model.

The mechanic I was referred to is dragging his heels getting back to me- anyone recommend someone in the Boston area who knows what he or she is doing? I've got no problem doing the work but I'd want a keener set of eyes on the truck so I don't eff anything up.

 

[squaretaper]

Also I just want to add thanks to all chiming in here with helpful hints and knowledge. Seems like the thing that separates this forum from many of the others is the patience and willingness to help newbies that is important to really build a strong culture around something. 1000x thanks, really.

 

[Iceman3005]

To bad your not closer, I would put it in my shop and have it fixed in a day!

 

[CPAPPY]

Have you tried adjusting the steering gear box ,Might take some play out of it .

 

[SGT LongT]

Couldn't it also be a worn steering rag joint causing the play?

 

[squaretaper]

There's a tiny bit of play in the rag joint. The box is certainly worn, I can see the shaft the rag arm is connected to popping up and down as the steering wheel is turned. I tried to adjust the gear in the box via the jam nut/grub screw but I can't get the jam nut to budge- I'm afraid of really pushing on it and messing up a brake line, which run close by.

 

[CPAPPY]

Might need to adjust the pre-load to take up the end play in that shaft .