• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

New M35A2 Owner - Recovery Story & IP Leak Question

AZJason

New member
5
0
1
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
Been lurking for just a bit over a year educating myself the best I can before I took the plunge in to my first truck. Watched many gov and private auctions over the year and finally something fell in to my lap when I wasn't even looking. Just over a month ago I happen to spot an ad for a 70 M35A2 W/OW that was just a few miles from me. Went to take a look at it, owned by a gentlemen in his early 30s who was probably in a bit over his head. Told me he bought it years ago and drove it back from Pennsylvania. Used it a few times to go romping in the desert, and then it sat in his driveway for the last 4 years. I later learned that it only had about 150 miles put on it in all that time. Truck started, but idled poorly. Fuel tank was about 1/4 full and looking pretty cruddy. Brakes of course were non functional, and appeared full of DOT3 flud.

To make matters worse, the truck had 4 flat tires and was sitting on jackstands. Several of the lugnuts were snapped half off - to which when I inquired I learned that he did not know the "left thread right thread" difference on these trucks. Also that he owned no air tools and was trying to break these off the truck using a 10" wrench and a non impact socket. Needless to say, he was unsuccessful. A bunch of the tires also had screws glued in to the tires (as plugs). Again, obviously not successful. After we conversed back and forth about him just wanting it out of his yard at this point and no one knowing even how to start the thing, let alone repair it, we came to an agreement and I took ownership. He was kind enough to let me leave it in his driveway for 3 weeks while I started repairs and ordered parts.

First task was to get those wheels off and it was no small task. 2' Breaker with another 6' pipe on it eventually worked them free after some long runs on them with the impact gun and two full cans of PB Blaster. Called around to several tire shops in town and found Phoenix Tire to be super accommodating and willing to deal with the stock rims and tires. The tires were in pretty bad shape with significant dry rot. He also had 3 spare tires and rims, but all of those tires had blown out sidewalls. I was able to get 6 of the 10 to hold air, and ran the other 4 down to the tire shop. A quick 45 minutes later they had the wheels cleaned up, new tubes in them, and I was back to the truck the following day.

Ordered all new wheel seals, brake cylinders, some lugnuts, etc from Mikes Motor Pool. Ended up replacing all of the cylinders for safety, repacking the bearings (and yes, I rembered the cork!), and also decided to add a remote reservoir to the brake system for safety after flushing it all and going back to DOT5. After two weekends of work I fired her up and took her home - a blast to drive for the first time. Got it home, but really wasn't feeling good about the tires, even for short trips. Had to chance it a few miles to emissions (boy, did that get some looks!) and it passed no problem. So the first order of business was ordering 10x 9x200 takeoffs from Memphis Equipment - again, great to deal with. Arrived at the dock at my offce a few days later, threw them in the back of the M35 and took it back to Phoenix Tire. Truck ended up with new'er sneakers all around, and 3 unmounted spares and 3 mounted spares in the bed for the future.

Uneventful and short recovery - all things considered it went very well, though those lugnuts were quite the bear. I don't envy those of you doing long distance recoveries!

One thing that I could use some help with is chasing down what I believe to be an oil leak from the IP. The truck will leave a oil spot directly below the IP after it's parked. When its running, it doesn't appear to drip that I can see. Started first by draining the oil for a change, and putting in new oil filters and gaskets. It didn't appear that anything was leaking here recently, but hard to tell. Same for the base of the air compressor, its got some crud there, but doesn't appear to be the source of the drip on to the IP. So I then de-greased the entire side of the motor, and after coming back the next day, I see some oil around where the throttle shaft enters the IP and at the base of it. Is this a common leak point? I haven't found too many discussions regarding it after a search. Photos are attached.

I've searched, and also reviewed the TM9-2910-226-34 document but could use some feedback from the larger crowd here. It appears there is an o-ring on this shaft similar to that of the fuel cutoff rod. Can the shaft be removed from the side without dismantling the entire IP? Has anyone done this before? Also, I'd hate to buy the entire gasket set for the IP if I only need 1 o-ring. Based on this post (http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?128507-Throttle-Stop-Shaft-O-ring-Size) it appears it is NSN 5330-310-6559 and cross referenced as American Bosch PN: GA76195 but I'm not having any luck finding an actual size for it.

In any case, appreciate any insight you can share and hopefully meeting some of the Arizona crew in the near future.

- Jason
 

Attachments

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,028
113
Location
London England
Welcome to the site hobby friendships..and now your really getting stuck into the very necessary tasks..the events to come. Well done, keep at it.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Have you tried to simply snug up the screws ? Sometimes thats all that is needed. After 46 years, things tend to loosen up!
 

AZJason

New member
5
0
1
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
Have you tried to simply snug up the screws ? Sometimes thats all that is needed. After 46 years, things tend to loosen up!
I have not snugged anything up yet (on the IP) - figured I'd research the issue a bit first. My understanding is though that there shouldn't be any oil behind the cover on the throttle shaft though because the o-ring on the shaft should keep it inside the IP to begin with. Correct?
 

18operator

Well-known member
1,093
1,855
113
Location
Seville, Ohio
Welcome from Northern Ohio! Nice looking truck. What do they check for when you take it to emissions? Not exactly the cleanest exhaust coming out of our trucks.
Must be tougher emissions standards where you're at.
 

Aussie Bloke

Well-known member
725
373
63
Location
Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,.....


Don't be worried about getting an entire seal kit if all you need is a single O-ring out of it as its always a good thing to have spares/parts on hand for later use.
(hopefully never needed)

That's a great truck you have saved!

Congratulations and I hope you have as much fun as I have with mine since I have had it.



Aussie.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,256
3,354
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
Correct, although a **little** oil behind the square cover is not unusual.

I would put the following on my to-do list:
- order O-ring kit for the IP
- make new gasket for shutoff cover from gasket material (easy).
- check out oil supply and return hoses for the IP. If suspicious, take off and have hydraulic shop make new ones (re-use fittings)

- switch to spin-on fuel filters and use as an opportunity to bypass FDC and run black DOT line as fuel line; new fittings with inserts...no leaks.
 

AZJason

New member
5
0
1
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
Welcome from Northern Ohio! Nice looking truck. What do they check for when you take it to emissions? Not exactly the cleanest exhaust coming out of our trucks.
Must be tougher emissions standards where you're at.
In Maricopa County (Phoenix area) emissions testing is required and the vehicle must pass the emissions standards that were acceptable for its year of manufacture (i.e. 1970). By biggest concern was if it would pass while it was running rough, having 5 year old diesel in the tank, and really only getting 20 or so miles on it after sitting for that period of time.

But it passed no issued! ADEQ performs a Diesel Snap Test (good reading here: https://www.arb.ca.gov/enf/hdvip/saej1667.pdf) which has you idle the engine for a few moments to achieve a baseline reading, then 3 times you'll go wide open throttle until you hit the rev limiter, and let it go back to idle. Each time they measure the opacity as a percentage. ADEQ had this vehicle/motor as a 55% max value, and the Deuce tested at 8.5% - so well below the limits required. This is thesame test I'm required to do on my '05 F250 6.0L Diesel.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks