New Member, buying first M1009 Tomorrow (HOPEFULLY)

[kswagg720]

Hey folks. My name's Kyle. I'm a proud veteran of the U.S. Navy, and as such, I oddly feel attracted to this breed of vehicle. So attracted, that I'm going to look at and possibly/hopefully purchase an un-molested 1986 6.2 M1009 from a guy about an hour away, and in turn, sell my current daily driver so this can take it's place. Please let me frankly preface my involvement on this forum by saying , I do NOT intend on leaving the M1009 "as is" or in the built for the military condition that it is in. No offense to the guys who bleed nostalgia, but thats just not my style. .

So, as this is going to be my first time thoroughly looking at one, what are some areas that i should pay special attention to, during my pre-purchase inspection. Anything specific about the engine/transmission/transfer case? "Blazer" specific rust spots? "M1009" specific wear n' tear due to military service?

I've been researching this particular series of vehicle for about a month or so, and have come up with a basic list of near immediate upgrades to include:

1)Converting to full 12-volt
2)Installing A/C ( in as near "factory" a manner as possible)
3)Larger than factory tires (i've read that significantly larger stock [but not ridiculously larger than] tires improve the fuel economy potential due to the gearing) [[EDIT]]-- What is the largest tire size that can be installed with factory openings, just so i know?--[[END EDIT]]

Feel free to add to my list of "basic starter upgrades" that i may have missed, or that you have learned from experience. Any advice is welcome.

Thanks,
TM2(SS)

 

[cucvrus]

an un-molested 1986 6.2 M1009
Good deal Kyle. Keep it that way. I just finished driving mine 575 miles today. Not the greatest driving vehicle but it made the trip thus far. And welcome to the site. And remember if it is not broke don't fix it. And if it does break fix the problem or replace the part. Don't redesign the vehicle. It lasted 30 + years the way it was built. Don't try to turn a sows ear into a silk purse. it can not be done. A CUCV is a utility based vehicle to say the least of it. It is not a modern comfort machine. Don't try to make it one you will be disappointed. Drive it for what it is and maintain it well and it will serve you well. I have some for 20+ years and they are still chugging away.

 

[AZK9]

Thanks for your service, Kyle!

Welcome from Arizona and good luck with whatever project you decide to take on.

 

[kswagg720]

an un-molested 1986 6.2 M1009
And remember if it is not broke don't fix it. And if it does break fix the problem or replace the part. Don't redesign the vehicle. It lasted 30 + years the way it was built. Don't try to turn a sows ear into a silk purse. it can not be done. A CUCV is a utility based vehicle to say the least of it. It is not a modern comfort machine. Don't try to make it one you will be disappointed.

While i dont intend on turning it into a Cadillac, i do plan on adding many upgrades, including creature comforts such as A/C and a modest stereo system, my main focus is to create functioning (semi) comfortable daily driver, that can also handle the offroad abuse of getting to somewhat remote camping and fishing areas that require mild water fording, trail running, and week (or so) long, off grid camping. Something I cannot achieve with my current "Cadillac" level comfortable 2WD RAM, with leather, DVD system, and shistie fuel mileage.

 

[kswagg720]

Thanks for your service, Kyle!

Welcome from Arizona and good luck with whatever project you decide to take on.

And you sir, are very welcome. It was an honor to serve.

 

[Flyingvan911]

Very nice. A full 12 volt system should be an improvement. Thanks for your service.

 

[rsh4364]

Most people can identify rust problems,leaks and such.But with the cucvs you almost need someone who has a history with one to spot the tough things,wireing,missing brackets,unwanted modifications.If you can take a bunch of picts.and post on here before you buy someone can surely lead you in the right direction.Most mayhem is under hood.And thankyou for your service,my son is a deep sea diver in the Navy.He has been at it for 12yrs,and still loves his job.He will re-tire before I do.LOL.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Welcome to the mix and thanks for your service. On to the truck. As built with the 3.08 gears, you will likely not see a noticeable difference in fuel mileage by going with a larger tire. With that said, you can shoehorn a 33x12.50 on the stock rims with not much effort. As far as deleting the 28V side of the electrical, that's a matter of preference. The system as designed works great with common sense maintenance. A/C is not easy nor cheap but very doable. I would be cautious of rust and excessive blow by. Blazers either rust from the bottom up or top down. Roof rust is hard to stop. Pay close attention there. Around the windshield and the floors next. You can always post pics while there and someone should see them. Good luck.

 

[MtnSnow]

31" tires are the largest you can run without a lift if truly off-roading it. You can get away with up to 33" without a lift as long as you are very very mild off-road. (ie semi-graded dirt roads) and don't compress the front end with the tires turned or you will be bending sheetmetal and gouging rubber.

 

[rsh4364]

Wonder if he bought the 1009?

 

[kswagg720]

Well, I wasn't able to make it out there yesterday. Luckily, his other potential buyer did not show up either, so I still have ample opportunity. It's just hard to make it from the south side of Houston to the north side and back in reasonable timeframe, during rush our. I feel I'll yesterday as well, so once I got home, I hadn't the drive to anything, much less buy a truck. I will surely keep you all informed though.

 

[Rvitko]

I bought mine dec 2014, in that time I changed the harmonic balancer, lift pump, water pump, all hoses and belts, figure on doing those preventively. My steering box was shot, I could turn the wheel 90 degrees and still be straight. I changed my front axel, ball joints were shot as were the bearings and if you can find a cheap milsurp it is cheaper than the parts if you factor calipers and rotors. Look for weird wobble and rub issues, the front ends seem to be worn out from age and use. I personally would stick to 24v for your uses. Look up accessories for semis and milsurp 24v tools and appliances to see why.

 

[Rvitko]

I plan to add the nostalgic air ac kit, I already own it, just need to put it in. If you fix up that rear junction block and keep the nato plug, it opens doors for outdoors stuff, like 24v fans, 24v space heater, 24v coffee makers, etc, not to mention drills, impact wrenches, stuff that could come in handy assembling a blind or feeder. I have found the 24v system perfectly workable if you just get the glow plugs straightened out with the newer wide terminal delco plugs, 60g I think.

 

[2deuce]

I've bought quite a few CUCV's over the years and the ones that have been modified are the trucks that have ended up as parts vehicles. I feel the reason for this are changes done on a tight budget coupled with inexperienced or overconfident owners. Most of the problems arise from attempted switches to 12 volt. People who attempt this switch often don't ever get it right and when the truck leaves them on the side of the road, they call the CUCV the worst truck ever built, while the blame belongs to their poor mods. I think any mod can be good if you truly understand the system, and know the end result before you start. If you live in Texas I can understand your need for AC.
In my younger days I liked the looks of the tall truck raised with big tires, then I began to realize that the mileage suffered because of all the air passing under the truck, the ride suffered, tire costs rose and I found myself driving something I didn't like... to save money.
I've been driving my M1009 everyday for over a year and while I think it could use an extra gear, I doubt I'll make any changes except maybe install items that make it look even more military like a radio tray, radio, antenna, speakers etc.
When you get your truck I hope you complete your vision with it and like your CUCV like I do mine.

Good Luck

 

[cucvrus]

I also have scrapped a few CUCV's for parts that had the wiring messed with and cut and hacked into. Not many but a few. I like to get basket cases and resurrect them. As you can see. A few I just pulled the entire harnesses out of and replaced the entire harnesses with an un molested wreck that I bought as residue from DRMO. Man I miss the voice auctions. Between the 12 volt conversions and the attempts of installation of gauges and stereo's I have seen a lot of CUCV's ruined. I know it is not a popular subject but I converted 6 M1010's to standard pick up trucks. Just because 1 I needed a plow truck at the time. And 2 I never could get the charging system figured out. A few only had less then 2K miles on them and the log books were riddled with notes on dead batteries and no charging. Oh well they served well in the new conversion. And I still have a few of the M1010 bodies for parts and lawn mower storage. Have a great day.

 

[Skinny]

The 24v system is very simple if you take the time to read up on how it works and you rebuild the alternators right out of the gate. Mine has been trouble free for years, you just have to bite the bullet and do the maintenance up front.

My M1010 I just bought had an uneducated tech already start removing and cutting wires for whatever reason. I will be spending some time modifying the 12/24v system so that it functions better than stock without the DUVAC.

 

[Tracer]

Welcome aboard from Nevada.

 

[tommys2patrick]

Howdy and welcome from Colorado. I would like a cucv as well. Keep us posted how you progress. Try to document what you do as you go. It may help you down the road. Also, you may want to label the things you change. It can get real confusing in a hurry.

 

[infidel got me]

Welcome from central Florida-- Thank you for your service-- and good luck on your project.

 

[WatchDawg]

Welcome From Maryland, Having driven 5 hrs to pick my first MV, and First Cucv (read about the adventure here). Let me give you a few pointers. First Download / Print out the Tm's listed in the wiki, They are invaluable try to read over at least the operators manual (they have a great section on pre-drive inspection etc.). If you are traveling to buy it, get trans, oil, and coolent before you set off for home should you buy it that day.

Get the vin number if you can before making the drive out to purchase and do a carfax report, it's worth the money.

Check for any leaks prior to start, check to see if the engine is warm prior to starting up and doing a test drive, if warm, could indicate owner knows it has prob. cold starting. Not a deal breaker, could use to lower price a bit. Before test driving check for any leaks or spots on the ground where it's parked. Check proper operations of necessary safety components, do all blinkers work? do low / high beams? does horn? Bring a DMM with you, if you can. Check the voltage at the alt's and at battery, are there any idiot lights on (read TM know what they mean, and get the electrical diagrams on the forms). Check any and all fluids. make sure all the keys work, make sure the tail gate works. are the tires worn on one side. Lock the hubs, and put it in 4x4, test the parking break and make sure it disengages properly. if there are any accessories (winch, etc) make sure they function as expected. again nothing is a game over (unless it's something like it won't start, or something along those lines). Ask the owner about it, was he the original owner, what did he use it for (4x4, or daily driver, or show car?) check fluids in diff's if you can. Get it on the highway, look for any shakes, misallignment, etc.

I talked the person I bought it from down from 4500 to 3900, and it was pretty nice (1 owner, 65k miles)

I also found out mine served in the USAF like I did , so it's now my battle buddy. I hope to goto the original unit when I make my bucket list trip cross country with it. It will have issues and problems, It's an old truck, but the guys on the form here are great, the TM's are amazing (I would suggest putting them on yoru phone so you always have them if you don't want to print out about 4k of paper). Just know what your getting into, if you don't want something you will constantly be working on, or don't want to get your hands dirty, this may not be the right fit. But if you like to work on things, it's something you can take a ton of pride in, I've had a few other vet's now tell me they used to drive it, when they were in the service, and seeing the smiles on their faces and the memories it brings them really makes my day. I can't stop smiling since I got mine. I've never really worked on cars, and now I have worked on this more then any car / truck i've owned ,and I love learning how to fix it myself, with help of family and the forms. Paying $30 for a part rather then $100+ to fix something is awsome.

Also what was the reason for the 12 v conversation? You can always get a step down converter from 24v to 12v, works great on interior passenger side junction box if you wanted to for car radio, etc... I'd keep it as is until you've had it for a few months to see if anything else pops up, would be a pain to troubleshoot something electrical not knowing full well and good what other problems may be underlying