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New member with a few questions

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Location
Burwell Nebraska
1: Welcome aboard, and well-written I must add ... I was a farmboy (dairy) in the Army at 17, age is just an attitude..
2: As you have seen, you will find a lot of help on here , but sorry I cannot help you with chevy stuff ..
3: Personally never cared for the chevies, they had issues when they first arrived on duty and I avoided them after..
4: Shame on me for not giving the CUCV's (and hummers) a chance, but it's also the matter of what I know versus what I
wish to learn.. 1970's mopars, M880s, jeeps, pre-automatic 5-tons are what I know better than the back of my hand..
5: Everything has its quirks, regardless of make/model, so please don't be discouraged .. You will find/learn the solutions ..
6: Am very glad you seem to be on your way to liking and getting to know your truck .. The fact you made it here says it all !

(y)
Thanks for the reply and the encouragement, it certainly has its quirks but it’s been a great truck to learn on and my friends and I have had a blast bouncing over old 1940s era highways: )

Thanks again for taking the time to reply
Nick
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
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So you got both gen lights working which great! Do that alternator test and see if they need rebuilt or it's a bad wire etc.

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30
67
18
Location
Burwell Nebraska
So you got both gen lights working which great! Do that alternator test and see if they need rebuilt or it's a bad wire etc.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
At the risk of revealing my propensity to ask stupid questions would that alternator test mean the sticky post or something different using the test plug?

Also would there be any reason to disconnect the alternator and haul it in to the Napa. I was talking to the guy who runs the shop yesterday and he mentioned being able to test it there.

Thanks

Nick
 

WWRD99

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Yes the sticky post with the test plug. You can take them into the store to get tested as well but they do hook up different than most stock gm with the isolated ground...but if you tell then that they should be able to figure it out. Testing on the truck tells you if the truck is ok and the alternator. I have tested some off the car and it tested ok then once they got hot it didn't. Some stores will test them on the car though so that's a possibility?

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Valley Rock

Big wheeler cat peeler
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Orygun
Unaware that Bass had seasons, what's the difference between Fall bass and regular Bass ?
 
30
67
18
Location
Burwell Nebraska
Yes the sticky post with the test plug. You can take them into the store to get tested as well but they do hook up different than most stock gm with the isolated ground...but if you tell then that they should be able to figure it out. Testing on the truck tells you if the truck is ok and the alternator. I have tested some off the car and it tested ok then once they got hot it didn't. Some stores will test them on the car though so that's a possibility?

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Thanks for the clarification and the idea I'm heading into town today anyway so I think I'll see about a test plug and go from there.

Thanks

Nick
 
30
67
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Location
Burwell Nebraska
Sorry its been awhile since I've updated this thread I've been prepping for my ACT test. Quick question to confirm I'm an idiot : ) what are these? first is on the back of the drivers side alt second is under my wiper motor. I have theories but I'm not convinced

Thanks for any replies

Nick
 

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Barrman

Well-known member
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The light brown wire on the back of the alternator is for the STE/ICE plug under the dash to read RPM. The 3 resistors under the wiper motor are for radio interference with the military radio when using the wipers. You can unplug them and just plug directly into the motor.
 
30
67
18
Location
Burwell Nebraska
The light brown wire on the back of the alternator is for the STE/ICE plug under the dash to read RPM. The 3 resistors under the wiper motor are for radio interference with the military radio when using the wipers. You can unplug them and just plug directly into the motor.
Alright thanks for the answers. Three more questions, of the two posts on the back of alt one which should it go on? Top or bottom also any chance of it causing charging problems? And finally I have wondered about the 3 resistors but I was mostly wondering about the loose connector seen in my dads hand. Thanks very much for the last reply and anymore to follow

Nick
 

WWRD99

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York Pa
If you look at the back of the alternator there's a pin that sticks out...it pops onto that. It goes to the big round connector under the dash for diagnostic stuff. That plug in your hand looks like it's a fat purple wire? It looks like the starter solenoid wire but not sure! I assume the starter works. Easy test if it gets 24 volts if you hit the starter. Dig around in the harness going over the engine to see if you can find the other end. To late for me to run out and look at one of mine.

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WWRD99

Well-known member
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York Pa
Ok I zoomed in on your pic of the alternator and it looks like your pin un screwed itself...all I see coming out is thread...don't hook that up to anything. Be on the left side of the alternator you can see the threads sticking out. You test volts on that regulator yet?

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