New motor time...

[llong66]

When I bought my 85M1008
i was told it had a newer <5000K miles on it 6.5. Well I have had nothing but problems, before I even got 50 miles I got a low coolant light, puled over and the water pump was gushing water, so that had to be replaced and I think it had previously been over heated as one of the heads was cracked so I replaced them. However, one of the cylinders was scored, probably from over heating and is below the standard compression and smokes until warm. The guy I bought it from had told me it started hard when warm so I was figuring I was going to need a new injector pump. When I had it looked at the pump was fine but was only held in place with one bolt, obviously, whoever did the swap didnt now jack about these. After I got those problems fixed I started having problems with the starter engaging with the flywheel and upon inspecting it, not only was the flywheel a mess, but whoever put the starter on had stripped out the holes for the starter and tried to heli coil it, needless to say, that has not lasted long and I think I just need to replace the motor.
I am interested in keeping a 6..5l in it and would like a turbo. I have found a completely reman. motor at US Engine Production Inc. it is described as follows:DROP IN COMPLETE: Includes NEW OEM Spec Parts. Includes all Reman Long Block Parts - (Cam/Main/Rod Bearings, Camshaft, Connecting Rods, Gaskets, Lifters, Oil Pan, Oil Pump, Piston Rings, Pistons, Push Rods, Rocker Arms, Three Angle Valve Seats, Timing Chain, Timing Gears, Valve Cover, Valve Guides, Valve Keepers, Valve Springs, and Valves), Plus - Exhaust Manifolds, Glow Plugs, Injectors, Intake Manifold, Pump, Turbo, and Water Pump. It is listed as a OPTIMIZER 6500 Drop In Complete Reman. When I called them, they said they had both the side and center mounted options available.
My question is, other than the changes I would need to make to my exhaust and oil lines for the turbo, would this work for my truck? They are asking $4700 for the complete pkg. I am sure I could go to the pull a part yard and get a motor and rebuild it my self, I have built numerous gassers but this is my first diesel as well as turbo.
From the description I have given, is there anything else I would need to ask or find out about/get?

Thanks much!
Greg

 

[CARNAC]

6.5 or 6.2?

 

[Triple C]

You need to make sure your pump set up the same. The 6.5 turbo uses two different model pumps, a DB2 and a DB4. The DB2 uses a mechanical connection to the accelerator and the db4 uses a wire. The db4 is the "electrical" pump that has a pmd on the side and they run about $350 by themselves. In my opinion, if your truck uses a db2 (and I think it does - or should) I would stay with that, which means a 1993 (possibly 1994 - not sure) or before. I have a 93 with the db2 and a 97 with the db4.

 

[Warthog]

1993 was the last year for the mechanical DB2 injector pump. 1994 and up are the electronic versions and require the computer.

A center mounted turbo will not fit without major work to the firewall. The sidemount turbo requires a little creativity with the exhaust pipe.

You need to find out what water pump is on the engine. The engines with sepentine belts turn the water pump opposite direction. That may be what the issue was with the "replacement" engine.

Many members have installed the 6.5L inplace of the 6.2L. They have also added the turbo to both engines.

 

[nattieleather]

If you can afford the price and it will save you time I say just do it. The motor should mount up engine mounts and trans with no problems. Other than the little things mentioned above I see no reason not to go for it.

 

[llong66]

If I have to do this, does anyone know if other than needing the crossover pipe for the exhaust if any other exhaust mods are needed? Will my current 6.5l pipes mount up to the turbo manifolds or are the outlet in a different place?

Thanks!
Greg

 

[culverjoe]

I put a 6.5 Turbo on my 6.2 (M1031). As far as the exhaust goes, you will need to build a cross over pipe from the outlet on the drivers side manifold, to the manifold on the passenger side. Then you will need to send your exhaust out of your turbo, through your fender well. You will named to run your exhaust on the outside of your frame until you get past the cab, where the frame angles up. There you can run your exhaust under your frame rail and to the inside before taking I. All the way back.

 

[southdave]

SS diesel sell a two piece cross tube.. saves alot of time... also check the assorsey drive rotatation ... serpentine belts runs water counter clockwise and v belts run clockwise. I ALSO thought that opt. Heads are different. ? Maybe consider a 4bt cummins swap chevy set up with a 400 turdo is about 2300 bucks.. I did it to my 1009

 

[llong66]

Thank you all so much for your help and answers on this! I was able to do a temp. fix until I can get a motor without having to go ask the bank. I removed the inspection cover that runs below the starter, slightly counter sunk the starter bolt hole, put a piece of all thread the proper size in the starter bolt hole, hit it with a welder, and viola! With the inspection cover removed, the starter slides right up! It would prolly last forever, but I still want to eventually replace the motor and when I do, I am going to go with the turbo 6.5. Southdave, thanks for the cross over info! That was my biggest worry. As far as accs. rotation, the place I was looking at can set you up either way, serp. or stock. The only diff was they supply a single 24v alt. so you are able to put an AC compressor, etc on. The guy I spoke with said I just need to swap my bracketage and such over.
Thanks again to all!

Greg

 

[southdave]

Greg
I have sort of the same thing going on now.. I have 1028 that I am swaping motor out.. It is 6.2/6.5 thing with a tubo I am losing my A/C ( had a cucv bracket) I may lose the pass. alt. and use GM ac pump for 6.5, if I can swap the pully. But pass. mounted A/C is fail with sanden pump.. the driver side might be an option but you will loose an alt