• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

New Purchase...M816!

USAFNB

Member
96
59
18
Location
Xenia, Ohio
@Wcuhillbilly, red and others. - Thanks all again for the advice and suggestions. Sorry it took me a moment to get back I am currently deployed but will be home in the very near future. I appreciate the concern about boom length, but anything out of my reach I will hire out haha I know my limits. With that in mind while doing research I found this interesting truck...and wanted to get everyone's thoughts. I have read countless threads on here about extending the 816's stick and what a bad idea it is. I am posting it just for conversations sake to see if anyone else has seen these photos.

@CSM Davis - Sadly it doesn't come with much of the equipment the truck had so I plan to pick it up as time and money permits. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

21764127_3.jpg21764127_4.jpg
- Nick
 

red

Active member
1,988
25
38
Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
As far as a jib boom (crane extension) goes that's better than most since it will fail before the main parts of the boom fail which is preferred. That setup would still require welding done to the boom which opens up a lot of concern with legality. If planning to use the crane on others stuff and you need an extension, the best option is to have a certified crane shop do the mod. Costs more but they can test it to make sure it is done right, and the liability for the modification falls on them (assuming the operator followed the new weight chart/etc).

The crane on these are pretty significantly under rated, it's a concern of the truck rolling over first. The stock outriggers don't extend very far to help with that.

The thread 'rescued m816' follows along with the progress of my wrecker (was owned by Valence before). Lots of details about bringing the truck back to life and the current/future mods. It's a bit picture heavy on some pages.
 

USAFNB

Member
96
59
18
Location
Xenia, Ohio
Well after finishing my deployment and doing some work to the truck at pick up location I decided to drive it. All brake lines and tires looked in good shape. 4 hr drive back to my place. Overall truck is in average shape. It didn't idle well went I first got it but that cleared up with fresh diesel and diesel additive. Parking brake shoes will need replaced, they are pretty worn but the good news is the crane works (see picture;don't mind liquid on boom supports that's water)
To do list for now is:
- fix front winch; broke shear pin
- fix rear winch; expect broke shear pin wound too tight
- respool all winches
- fix electric shut off; currently disconnected
- seat covers
- general mx; oil, hoses, belts

From what I can tell from the military mx records the truck has had quite a bit of mx done this was a Ft Polk truck. New hydraulic motors for crane, new hydraulic lines here and there. Biggest thing was a new engine about 100 hours from what is currently on my hour gauge. Engine has plenty of power.
Any other suggestions?
20170526_093229.jpg20170526_171902.jpg
 

Attachments

Last edited:

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,130
9,407
113
Location
Mason, TN
Well after finishing my deployment and doing some work to the truck at pick up location I decided to drive it. All brake lines and tires looked in good shape. 4 hr drive back to my place. Overall truck is in average shape. It didn't idle well went I first got it but that cleared up with fresh diesel and diesel additive. Parking brake shoes will need replaced, they are pretty worn but the good news is the crane works (see picture;don't mind liquid on boom supports that's water)
To do list for now is:
- fix front winch; broke shear pin
- fix rear winch; expect broke shear pin wound too tight
- respool all winches
- fix electric shut off; currently disconnected
- seat covers
- general mx; oil, hoses, belts

From what I can tell from the military mx records the truck has had quite a bit of mx done this was a Ft Polk truck. New hydraulic motors for crane, new hydraulic lines here and there. Biggest thing was a new engine about 100 hours from what is currently on my hour gauge. Engine has plenty of power.
Any other suggestions?
View attachment 684835View attachment 684836
It your driving it from jackson to your place in east Tennessee its about 7hours.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

red

Active member
1,988
25
38
Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
Well after finishing my deployment and doing some work to the truck at pick up location I decided to drive it. All brake lines and tires looked in good shape. 4 hr drive back to my place. Overall truck is in average shape. It didn't idle well went I first got it but that cleared up with fresh diesel and diesel additive. Parking brake shoes will need replaced, they are pretty worn but the good news is the crane works (see picture;don't mind liquid on boom supports that's water)
To do list for now is:
- fix front winch; broke shear pin
- fix rear winch; expect broke shear pin wound too tight
- respool all winches
- fix electric shut off; currently disconnected
- seat covers
- general mx; oil, hoses, belts

From what I can tell from the military mx records the truck has had quite a bit of mx done this was a Ft Polk truck. New hydraulic motors for crane, new hydraulic lines here and there. Biggest thing was a new engine about 100 hours from what is currently on my hour gauge. Engine has plenty of power.
Any other suggestions?
View attachment 684835View attachment 684836
You can get the parking brake shoes relined for cheap. That being said, the stock parking brakes capability is questionable at best with the lighter tractor/cargo trucks and completely inadequate with the wreckers even on flat ground in my opinion.

Off to a solid start
 

wcuhillbilly

Member
421
5
18
Location
Devils Tower, WY
You can get the parking brake shoes relined for cheap. That being said, the stock parking brakes capability is questionable at best with the lighter tractor/cargo trucks and completely inadequate with the wreckers even on flat ground in my opinion.

Off to a solid start
I second that one,,, had mine relined for around $125 and used them for about a week,, found out that if they were adjusted enough to work on flat ground or a mild grade, then they would rub and burn on the drum running down the highway... thus they are backed of now. still toying with the idea of an air can to open them and close them for parking operations.... hopeing a set of air axles comes along first... he he he he...(thanks for re-inventing the wheel Red)
 

red

Active member
1,988
25
38
Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
hopeing a set of air axles comes along first... he he he he...(thanks for re-inventing the wheel Red)
hahaha yea swapping the axles is easier than swapping the backing plates like I did. The parking/emergency brakes provided by the air brake conversion is worth it, not cheap but worth it. About $900 in fittings, valves and hoses on my setup.

The other option would be to install a dual circuit master cylinder and some pinion brakes on the rear axles.
 

USAFNB

Member
96
59
18
Location
Xenia, Ohio
@Red - just a curious question as to why you chose full air brakes vs something like a hydro boosted brake system? Thinking of future upgrades!
 

red

Active member
1,988
25
38
Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
@Red - just a curious question as to why you chose full air brakes vs something like a hydro boosted brake system? Thinking of future upgrades!
Either the dual circuit upgrade with pinion brakes as parking/emergency brakes, or swapping to air brakes are both good viable options. I went with the conversion to m939 series air brakes because I got the wheel ends (drums, backing plates, shoes, etc) in a trade. Lots of details and pictures in this thread about it https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132200-quot-Rescued-quot-M816-Wrecker/page46 Also I did not copy the m939 brake plumbing, simplified it and used regular commercial valves.
 

USAFNB

Member
96
59
18
Location
Xenia, Ohio
I have read your thread extensively haha and plan on borrowing some of your upgrades. How hard was the front wheel air engagement modification you made?
 

red

Active member
1,988
25
38
Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
Hardest part of the front axle disconnect is deciding where to mount the switch. With the transmission tunnel removed it's easy access to the plumbing. Also with how I plumbed it mine is only disconnected when driving forward, it still engages automatically in reverse. If you want to disable the sprag in both forward/reverse then plumb the switch into the air supply line going to the transmission.
 

USAFNB

Member
96
59
18
Location
Xenia, Ohio
@Red: Thanks for the info, after all routine Mx and some additional storage boxes this will be my next mod!

@ CSM Davis: I had found it on Oshkosh equipment but it was somewhat expensive, I will get in touch with them! thanks for the heads up
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,195
326
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
Declutch the drum, drum lock out, then you should be able to pull the cable out.
 

USAFNB

Member
96
59
18
Location
Xenia, Ohio
@73M819 - I figured as much for the front drum but what about the rear since it can't free spool? Hook up to a vehicle and "help" it unspool if needed?

Thanks!
 

red

Active member
1,988
25
38
Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
Heh hopefully it unspools better than mine did. Lower layers were wrapped over the upper layers in some spots and wouldn't come out even with a vehicle dragging the cable (winch in free spool).

IMG_3401.jpg


Yes same concept with the rear winch of using another vehicle, just power out. Preferably a vehicle with an auto transmission. Friends deuce in low range 1st gear couldn't idle slow enough to match the rear winch speed.
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
4,166
393
83
Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
@73M819 - I figured as much for the front drum but what about the rear since it can't free spool? Hook up to a vehicle and "help" it unspool if needed?

Thanks!
Yeah that's the easy way to unwind it. Otherwise 3-4 strong soldiers are needed. Some of us are setting up a little winch to pull it out with a snatch block if you have to use it alone or with just soldier B. Also set the soldier B to hold a little brake pressure when you wind in to get it to wind even.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

USAFNB

Member
96
59
18
Location
Xenia, Ohio
My dad, Uncle and I went to our property this weekend where the truck is located. We greased and oiled the entire truck, some things were "sticky" from sitting, but overall the truck ran great and fired right up. we got the crane winch let out, greased and pulled back in correctly. Also got the front winch broke free, however it still isn't working. Someone put a bolt in place of the shear pin. The PTO engages, spins but the shaft does not...I think the key on the PTO shaft is broken, more to come on that in the future.

Any recommendations or advice on belt change, specifically the water pump. I have read these trucks with the 855 cummins and the rotating water pump to tighten the belt can be "challenging"?

As always you steel soldiers help is greatly appreciated!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks