New source for Locking hubs!

[Trango]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343745


Believe it. Crosspost in motion.



Bob

 

[Monster Man]

WOW...... those are nice. And, you're right, if I saw a kit with one hub and a drop-in axle I would be DOWN, so much easier than than 20 minute swap I currently go through, less messy too

 

[Recovry4x4]

Ouverson already makes the double splined axle and they are far easier to deal with then Milemarker. Patience is a virtue! I'm so glad I waited to buy hubs. I'll bet some used Selectro's start showing up on the market. Fantastic news!

 

[Lee Alessi]

i like the competition!
spicer, you wanna call ouverson and find out if they will cut us a deal? or for that matter maybe if we (the forum) bought a few pairs of hubs and axles we could all save some money.....

 

[brgmchevy]

Check the price on these hubs at Ouverson at $750 a pair? OUCH! Just doesn't seem necessary to be soooo expensive!

 

[Lee Alessi]

595 was the price listed on the pirate link

 

[Elwenil]

For those too lazy to clicky or for when Pirate4X4 takes a crap and won't load:


http://www.ouversonengineering.com/inc/pdetail?v=1&pid=181






[table cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0]
[tr ][td vAlign=top align=right width="10%"][2]Price: [/2][/td][td width="90%"][2]$750.00[/2][/td][/tr][tr ][td vAlign=top colSpan=2]

[/td][/tr][tr ][td vAlign=top colSpan=2]

[/td][/tr][tr ][td vAlign=top colSpan=2]

[/td][/tr][/table][2]THE MOST PREMIUM LOCKOUT YOU CAN BUY! [/2][2]Details:
AT 10 POUNDS THIS LOCKOUT PACKS A HARDCORE PUNCH. TWO VERSIONS, BILLET 6061 T-6 OR A CASTED 356 TAKEN TO A T-6 CONDITION. 70 ROCKWELL DIAMOND HARDCOAT COATING ON ALL ALLUMINUM COMPONENTS. TRIPLE SEALED O-RING DESIGN, PREMIUM ALLOY INTERNAL COMPONENTS AND STAINLESS STEEL HARDWARE HOLD THIS THING TOGETHER. CANT SAY ENOUGH about THIS LOCKOUT. AS USUAL, THIS BABY IS MADE IN THE USA! [/2]

 

[Lee Alessi]

steve gershner is a 6x6 nut. ive chatted a few times with him. he said he had some input in the design, and he was the oone who said 595. for 750 you could almost get THREE selectros (enough to "do" a deuce)

 

[rdixiemiller]

I think they are nice hubs, but for the money? Selectros will do for me. I am not looking at enough horsepower to need anything else.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Yeah, I thought the $595 was the price. At $750 its more than I need. Guess I'm back on line to buy the selectros. Of course I'm not saying they're not worth $750, just overkill for what I'll be doing.

 

[cranetruck]

I don't really see any need at all for lockable hubs. I'll pass.

 

[spicergear]

Bjorn, mechanical sympathy for the truck by not constantly back spinning 6.72:1 double reduction, not having to soak up the frisction that creates in lessened mpg, and easier steering...just to name a few.

 

[cranetruck]

Okay, I knew that I would ruffle some feathers with that statement.

Here are my arguments for not spending $500-$800 for a set of locking hubs:

1) Increase in mpg is only 1 to 2 mpg. The hubs would pay for themselves after about 15,000-30,000 miles of highway driving. Much longer when I start using fast food cooking oil.

2) The differential is turnning with no load and the wear is minimal. How many worn out front differentials have you seen?

3) My steering is very easy on the highway, no need for power steering. The steering effort is effected by loading on the front axle. I can control that with the way the truck is loaded and how I "park" the K-boom. Power steering may be nice, but not needed, off-road or when parking a trailer, for example. Some power steering components are exposed slightly below the front axle housing (have to double check that, but I think it decreases the ground clearance some).

4) Locking hubs have not been tested to my satisfaction off-road. Can they withstand a bump into a tree stump or a rock?

5) You have to leave the driver's seat to engage them. With only one driving axle (the stub axle is removed for highway driving), I often have to engage front wheel drive to make it over a curb or up a slight incline on a gravel road. (BTW, removing the stub axle is where the real improvement are, tighter turning radius, less front tire wear, better fuel milage, much less stress on drivetrain components, which are loaded here).

If they were disabled within the differential, like lockers are, from the driver's seat, THEN I may consider this feature.

Oh, one more thing, I don't like the looks of them.

If I absolutely had to have freewheeling front hubs, I'd bore out the standard ones (did that years ago, but sold them).

I'd rather upgrade to CV-joints in the front to help ease steering off-road.

There you have it , turn on the flame throwers, eldkastare, flammenwerfer or just light a match and prove me wrong!


Regards,

 

[Lee Alessi]

ill bite......

Here are my arguments for not disengaging the interaxle by pulling the shaft..

1) Increase in mpg is only 1 to 2 mpg.

2) The differential is turning anyway and i personally think wear is minimal. How many worn out rear differentials have you seen?

5) You have to leave the driver's seat to install it.

If they were disabled within the differential, like lockers are, from the driver's seat, THEN I may consider this feature.

There you have it , turn on the flame throwers, eldkastare, flammenwerfer or just light a match and prove me wrong!

lol, the same can be said for pulling the interaxle shaft. but i agree with your comments. i know too many people in the army and marines that warned me when putting the front axle in a bind its very,very hard to steer. the negative i see on the interaxle is in an emergency it takes too long. plus if you have to get offroad (read major road closure) who wants to lay in the mud to put it back?

 

[cranetruck]

One small thing, removing the stub axle doesn't cost anything.

 

[Lee Alessi]

yes, that is true. as long as i can get 1100x20 tires at 20~30ea i cannot see doing any of these mods for tire wear arguements.

 

[cranetruck]

I'd love to get my hands on 3 new 11.00-20 NDCC for less than $50/ea.
No retreads, please (it's for the rear and the trailer, the front ones still look almost new after 5,000 miles).

 

[Red Neck]

When you figured the cost of fuel savings, how much was fuel per gallon? After (if ever) you reach the point where they are paid off, how much are the hubs worth then? (pretty close to the same price? By then they will cost more). Minute reduction in vibration and noise is worth something. Not having to worry about a torn axle boot/loss of lube on a trip? Cummins had a chart that predicted the need for engine replacement by how much fuel was consumed in the engines lifetime, how much extra engine life will you be adding with the hubs? If I can ever find a M342, I am going for the hubs, I can always get some of my money back selling them used. But you do have a good point with the tree vrs hubs issue.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Then there's my cheap butt. I have a set of desplined front hub flanges. Around town they stay at home. When I do road trips I install the bad boys. Once they're installed I pull a rear shaft and use one of the splined front flanges to cover the hole. I get the best of both worlds, can do it in 10 minutes with on board air and I haven't spent a nickel. I know that with only one driving axle I have to be cautious of where I drive and that I do. My answer to the poor traction of one driving axle is to install a Detroit Locker in the one remaining drive axle. I would like to install a rear lockout but for around $500 I can pull the shaft a lot of times. I'm even considering installing studs in that one location with fine thread outers.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Hold on gang! Arthur Bloom (M35 Products) just announced that he's cut his ties with Milemarker (Selectro) and is selling the Ouverson hubs for $595 a pair. So I guess they can be had at the original posted price. I've spoke with Arthur many times and I understand the folks at Milemarker are incredibly difficult to deal with so I find it no surprise that Arthur switched. Arthur? I know you're out there! Pipe up son!