New to board and CUCV trucks

[grinch5326]

Hello,

Been surfing this site hard for last few days. I need another truck or two and considered getting one of the older 1984-86 blazers and pick ups. Will be looking hard so thank all of you for the good info on here and the great pics lot of great looking trucks to inspire me with ideas of what I'd like to do.

I guess one of my biggest concerns on these trucks are rust and how to deal with it. What ever I get I would like to be mechanically solid enough to be a daily driver if needed. unfortunately I don't have the time or money to fly around looking at trucks coming up for auction since I'm still active duty for a few more years till I can finally retire.

I'm also surfing the adds for solid truck that members maybe selling.

Thanks
Monty

 

[stationjj]

Monty,

I am a new M1009 owner. I purchased mine in May 2012. I purchased mine from a guy in the memphis area. So I was able to view and drive before purchase.

I had rust cancer along the door panel floors, and the top were the top bolts onto the cab. I had a welder fix it for $350.

Considering your still on active duty. I would suggest that you purchase from a private individual.

For what I paid for my CUCV. I am pleased with what I purchased. I have spent money on rubber to prevent further rust issues. Now I am tackling electrical.

These trucks as you know over 26 years old. Be ready to deal with rubber and electrical.

This site will be your new friend. Many answers to problem are on this site. I have found myself searching posts and finding a nugget of knowledge. Keep bookmarks of popular posts.

I wish you luck in your search.

Thank you for your service!

stationjj

I sent a PM.

 

[stationjj]

Monty,

I am a new M1009 owner. I purchased mine in May 2012. I purchased mine from a guy in the memphis area. So I was able to view and drive before purchase.

I had rust cancer along the door panel floors, and the top were the top bolts onto the cab. I had a welder fix it for $350.

Considering your still on active duty. I would suggest that you purchase from a private individual.

For what I paid for my CUCV. I am pleased with what I purchased. I have spent money on rubber to prevent further rust issues. Now I am tackling electrical.

These trucks as you know over 26 years old. Be ready to deal with rubber and electrical.

This site will be your new friend. Many answers to problem are on this site. I have found myself searching posts and finding a nugget of knowledge. Keep bookmarks of popular posts.

I wish you luck in your search.

Thank you for your service!

stationjj

I sent a PM.

 

[grinch5326]

Thank you!!

I have not really done alot of this type of work in the past I just dont have the time I would love to do a rebuild or restore myslef someday but that is down the road right now my day job keeps me moving alot and I started a side business that is growing really well too so that is hard to keep up in itself so for now I will probably have to buy one close to the condition of what I want.

I see some for sale but most are not close to me so same problem of getting a chance to look at them.

When you say rubber to prevent more rust what do you mean?

You said you sent me a PM? nothing yet but you can Email me at my personal E-mail
Grinch5326(removerthis)@hotmail.com

Contact me offline for information about my Weapons side business

THanks
Monty

 

[85CUCVtom]

Welcome to the site!

Stationjj is 110% correct. Be ready to do electrical work and replace rubber. The first rule of CUCV is if it's rubber replace it and if it's electrical clean it. Your going to want to replace all the fuses and bulbs and clean the fuse box with electrical cleaner to prevent a melt down in the fuse box.

I can recommend, from personal experience, buy one that still has the factory 24V starting/charging system intact. A lot of the 12V conversions out there are shade tree hack jobs that do a lot of damage to the wiring harnesses.

Also be prepared to change out all the fluid and filters.

 

[Warthog]

Welcome to the site Grinch.

There are a few members that rebuild and sell trucks like you are looking for.

One word of advice. Talk of guns and gun related items are not allowed in the open forums. Too many other sites for that. We do have a section of the site for guns but only paid members can access it.

We do allow talk of weapons that ate attached to military vehicles for display purpose.

 

[jeeplvr247]

I had rust cancer along the door panel floors, and the top

My condolences, I lost a bike to that when I was five.

I second the 24v. There are a lot of hack jobs out there that are 12v and you will no longer be able to use the TMs for help. The closer to stock condition it is in, the more help you will be able to get from this site. Also, Don't rush into buying one. You can go out on CL anyday and find some for 5,6, or 7k in rough shape but if you take your time and find the right buyer you can find a nice deal.
When I got mine my goal was to leave enough room for profit to upgrade to a deuce or a jeep. I succeeded and got my M38A1. The CUCVs are great trucks if you take care of them, remember that old diesels do not like high revs and you will be fine.
Good luck in your search.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

You said you sent me a PM? nothing yet but you can Email me at my personal E-mail
xxxxxxxx

Contact me offline for information about my Weapons side business

THanks
Monty

Monty, you really don't want to be putting your email address out like that, unless you like spam.

Here's why: SPAMBOTS

If you do NOT like spam, I suggest you edit your post. If you can't edit it, ask the mods - they may be willing to do that for you.

 

[Cucvnut]

Were in CA are you located ?

 

[grinch5326]

Coronado CA live and stationed

 

[stationjj]

Grinch

What I mean by replacing rubber to prevent further rust damage. When you get your first CUCV you will notice that most if not all rubber will be dry rot and falling apart.

When I got my M1009 the rubber seals for the top where leaking. Also check the seals for windows. Again mine window seals where dry rot and water was leaking inside the door.

My approach was that I needed to stop the water to prevent further damage. After I felt good about stopping the water I can tackle fixing and repairing the rust issues. I added a DIY waterproof bedliner.

I do plan to PM you. I have been busy with other issues.

Again I wish you luck on your quest.

stationjj

 

[jeeplvr247]

My approach was that I needed to stop the water to prevent further damage. After I felt good about stopping the water I can tackle fixing and repairing the rust issues. I added a DIY waterproof bedliner.

When I had my CUCV it would get water in it every time it rained but it would just drain through some holes in the floor boards. It was not a sexy solution but it worked.

 

[grinch5326]

OK got ya on the rubber now makes sense!! good to know also about electrical.

I dont intend on doing any lifting of the trucks I get.

Good to know about the 12 volt conversions I didnt know that I will probably keep it stock on that now for sure. So the question is can there be anyway to jump a 24 volt from a 12 volt? I that is this is the only real advantage of a 12 volt??

things I am interested in:

I read someplace the trucks will only go 55?? unless a gear is changed out? if so this is interesting to me.

Also what about the turbo conversions?

other then that all my work will be to make it as stock as possible and referb everything body and mechanical wise to be a solid running truck.

Thanks
Monty

 

[Keith_J]

You CAN jump start from a 12 volt system. But only in the case of discharged batteries and it is slow. You aren't jump starting but jump charging. I jump charged an M35A2 on my first real recovery from DRMO/GL. And did it with a VW Jetta...but it has a 140 amp alternator so it took about an hour. You MUST connect straight to each battery, one at a time.

On water leaks...I've noticed my M1031 leaks at the kick panel vents. Water from the windshield dribbles down the cowl vent where it collects into gutters which drain in between the fender and the inner body panel. It can drip on the vent door, seeping inside. I've fashioned gutter extensions from aluminum flashing and glued them onto the existing gutter with contact cement. That didn't hold too well so I also used silicone sealant, that fixed them in place. Take off the kick panel vent doors to perform this invisible modification.

55 MPH? That is the recommended for the trucks as they have 4.56:1 axles. The engine's peak power is rated at 3600 RPM which will get over 70 MPH. I find 65 MPH is comfortable, the noise at 60 MPH is from the intake manifold as it is tuned for this RPM, there is no silencer on the intake so it is LOUD.

The M1009 has 3.08 axles so it will do any legal speed...well, 75 MPH is possible. Wouldn't want to take it on the new Texas Superhighway where legal speed is 85 MPH because of safety issues. Solid axle, leaf springs and mixed brakes just are not good combination for high speed.

Turbo conversions will increase power and also quiet down intake noise since the compressor turbine is an effective sound trap. Don't expect to match current diesel performance, these are indirect injected engines.

 

[grinch5326]

makes sense on the rubber I guess they are old trucks and rubber will dry rot. I guess same for electrical I hear electrical problems can be a real PITA would be interesting to replace alot of the wiring harness.

I would probably look real hard at the re gearing and not sure on the turbo but if I do have it done it will be by a professional for sure

Thanks for the help

 

[jeeplvr247]

Just to throw in my two cents on the speed. Every truck is different but my '09 was most comfortable around 60-65. I knew it could go faster but I did not want to push it and my fuel mileage was amazing(mid 20s) if I kept it right about 60mph.

 

[CycleJay]

Here is my

I keep mine between 55-65 on the freeway, because I do not want to push it either.
I know too it can go faster, but I do not want to mistreat the engine by going faster.

With mine, I had to start with eletrical because the eletrical was in worse shape
than the rubber, but since I am getting the eletrical worked out, I will start soon
looking into replacing rubber.

I have replaced belts so far, and added a few missing items an M1009 should have.

So all is going well, I am like Grinch, I am going to...
"make it as stock as possible and refurb everything body and mechanical wise to be a solid running truck....", as well as electrical.

Just my

Good luck Grinch, and Good night...

 

[forest522]

Welcome!

Firstly, buy a used refrigerator. Place said refrigerator in garage within 50 feet of CUCV. Install radio or TV...entertainment of choice in garage. Fill frige with beer of choice.

Secondly, set up a table in garage. On table you will need: TMs for your CUCV. A notebook, pencils or crayons....digital camera and your laptop computer.

Thirdly, all tools and spare parts must be scattered about on garage floor. A second vehicle is necessary to prowl to and from local parts yards and stores. Access to a good florist is critical to keep designated spousal unit out of CUCV repair area. Also, gift cards to iTunes may also work.

Open frige, enjoy beverage, turn volume on radio or tv up to near max and conduct maintenance on CUCV.

Prepare for wallet to get lighter...

 

[grinch5326]

so you guys are saying dont mess with the gearing?