New to me fuel storage tanks

[harleyrkc]

I scored a 550 gallon diesel storage tank and 250 gallon fuel oil tank for next to nothing. I plan to use the 550 for cleaned WMO and the 250 for dirty WMO. They came with stand but it was not worth salvaging. I plan to cut it up to salvage what I can but it was home made and I don't think it was made heavy enough, which shows in how bent up parts of it are. So my questions are what color should I repaint the tanks for proper identification? And does anyone have any suggestions on what to weld up a new stand out of?

The tank dimsions peg it at 560 gallon capacity. I used 7.5 lbs. per gallon to guesstimate the weight I need to support, which came out to 4200 lbs., plus 150-200 lbs for the tank. And the smaller tank which I plan to mount below (nearly on the ground) is around 1875 lbs., plus around 80-100 lbs. tank weight.

I'm thinking about using 2" x 1/4" pipe or tubing for the uprights with a couple X supports and a pair of cross members on the ground for a skid. I only plan on putting it about 6' high.

Suggestions?

 

[Ferroequinologist]

Colors for identification wouldn't really be an issue, I have mine painted sliver roof paint, and just labeled well. Screw on some big funnels with lids and paint them contrasting colors so you have a little reminder before you pour.

2 in pipe with sufficiant cross bracing should work well.

 

[RAYZER]

i have a 275gal storage tank that i plan on filling with wmo, i think i'll paint od green!

 

[srodocker]

Yea i have extra paint myself for my 275gal tote. i plan on mounting it on a trailer. dont plan to use it much hooked up to the deuce. just so it is mobile if needed.

 

[blybrook]

I wouldn't bother painting the tanks any special color as long as you have them la belled correctly.

For me, the local fuel oil above ground tank stands are typically made from 2" angle iron for tanks up to 400 gallons and most are painted a standard red primer. These stands have been known to be used for tanks through 750 gallon tanks, but they usually are 4 posts, x bracing and set on a concrete footing for anything larger than 400 gallon.

Since you are not in a seismic area, you should be just fine with the 2" sch 40 pipe and x bracing. Make sure you are on a good footing and tie the legs together at the 1/3 points with the braces in all directions (i.e. 2/3 point to 1/3 point).

You are near farm country, go take a gander at some of the fuel stands they use for their tractors, That may give you a few other ideas to run with.

 

[harleyrkc]

Construction is under way. I cut up the bent up old frame to salvage everything I could. I figure all the old angle iron will go into cross bracing. I scrounged up two pieces of 2" x 2" angle to use on the bottom, and picked up two sticks of 2" schedule 40 black pipe. Since I'm a short guy and the pipe comes in 10' lengths I decided that a 5' tall stand would suffice. That way us short guys can reach the lockable ball valve I plan to put on the outlet. I managed to salvage the old cradles and before tonite is over with I should have the stand partially reassembled. I'll work out all the braces later this week when time permits. My goal is to get this all put together cleaned up and painted before I have to go back to work.

And no I'm not actually home by choice but I'm making the most of it.

 

[harleyrkc]

Stand is built and painted to keep mother nature away. I took a 6" wire wheel to the main tank knock off all the loose stuff and the first coat of white paint is done.

Now for the setup. The main tank has a 1/2" tap in the bottom that I plan to put a valve on and then plug. That will give me a way to remove water if I ever get any contamination. The main tap in the bottom front is 1" and I was able to salvage the safety valve. But what should I run for a backup filter? I'm not sure if a normal diesel filter will handle wmo/diesel mix. And will my mix flow through a normal fuel nozzle?

 

[m16ty]

Just don't paint the tank dark colors. It probably won't make much difference with WMO but diesel or gas needs to be kept as cool as possible to cut down on evaporation. That's why most tanks you see are painted silver or white. Sometimes people even build a shed over their tanks to keep them cool.

 

[4x4forlife]

 

[srodocker]

 

[harleyrkc]

I'll get pics up as soon as I actually set the tank on the stand. I've got the tank stood up on end while the paint drys. I think I'm going to put one more coat of white on before I'm done. The setup will be put on the side of my barn approach under a big maple tree for shade. I still need to source a new level gauge, shut off valves, filter, hose, and fuel nozzle.

I need suggestions for the filter. Will a standard goldenrod diesel filter work for WMO?

I'd like to order a filter when I order my other parts to complete this.

 

[Bob H]

Dave P has a set up, I believe he pumps it through 3 filters, last one being a 5 micron
and each with a pressure gage to monitor for clogging.

 

[harleyrkc]

Dave P has a set up, I believe he pumps it through 3 filters, last one being a 5 micron
and each with a pressure gage to monitor for clogging.

I'm looking into putting a 13" centrifuge together and then automating the entire system. The family business I work in specializes in building automations so access to some fairly neat automation systems isn't a problem.

 

[grayw0lf]

Just don't paint the tank dark colors. It probably won't make much difference with WMO but diesel or gas needs to be kept as cool as possible to cut down on evaporation. That's why most tanks you see are painted silver or white. Sometimes people even build a shed over their tanks to keep them cool.

I'd say go for the dark colors. Gasoline would definately evaporate quicker, but it sounds like you'll be running WMO. Anything that evaporates from WMO / WVO is probably a good thing.

The darker color (& warmer fuel) will also help gravity settle out the suspensed particles.

Just my $0.02

 

[harleyrkc]

My large tank is nearly done and its on the new cradle. The neighbor came over and we hung the tank from the bucket on his front end loader to get it up there. Then he tells me I should paint a Texaco logo on the side of it. Now I'm actually comtemplating putting something more like a Sinclair Oil sign on it. I'll post pics tomorrow. Should I put a historical oil company logo on it?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Nope keep it plain so no passer-by-ers decide to inspect it. I would try to mount some kind of pump. Kip has a gravity feed unit and with WMO it is PAINFULLY slow through a filter.

 

[harleyrkc]

Nope keep it plain so no passer-by-ers decide to inspect it. I would try to mount some kind of pump. Kip has a gravity feed unit and with WMO it is PAINFULLY slow through a filter.

I wondered about that. The tank is a little over 5' off the ground and I've been debating a 3/4" or 1" filter and hose assembly. Which filter should I use for WMO / diesel mix? I don't have the money for a pump right now, but the first thing going on the tank is a lockable valve so I'll be able to work on it without emptying it.

 

[LowTech]

My WMO tank is black, and I live in the desert. I want it to get hot and cook out the water. It also makes crud drop to the bottom faster. I then have 2 valved outlets on one end, one about 6" above the other. The lower one lets me drain any water & crud out. When I start getting oil I then shut that one off and run the upper one. It keeps me at least 5" above any bad stuff.

 

[harleyrkc]

My WMO tank is black, and I live in the desert. I want it to get hot and cook out the water. It also makes crud drop to the bottom faster. I then have 2 valved outlets on one end, one about 6" above the other. The lower one lets me drain any water & crud out. When I start getting oil I then shut that one off and run the upper one. It keeps me at least 5" above any bad stuff.

That awesome...... you just verified what I am about to try. Last night I welded in an access on the bottom of my 250 gallon waste oil tank, I was planning to plug the tap on the bottom front, and I was debating where to put the new tap on the front. 6" above the bottom is now my number. Thanks.

 

[PsycoBob]

I've seen a huge difference in back-pressure with a short temperature rise. From 55-70deg back pressure dropped from 50 to 15psi. At 120deg back-pressure was at less than 5psi.

My WMO centrifuge has a 5gpm pump to run a 2.5gpm centrifuge. The manifold has temp/pressure guage and adjustable relief valve, with a 7/16" dump line to let me pump out the finished product. I also leave it dumping back into the tank on startup. I'd take pics, but I haven't finished fiddling with the centrifuge drain and relief valve lines. Blasted centrifuge really wants a wide-open drain line at 2.5+ gpm.