New to me MEP-002

[Alphabavo]

Bought a 1991 MEP-002 for $650, that I'm getting prepped to run.


I've changed the filters and fluids, drained and cleaned out the fuel tank.


I've heard that the injector pumps on these have a tendency to seize over time and break when cranked. Is there a way to test the pump to make sure it's good to go, without removing it from the unit?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Not really. Some say you should turn it over by hand first. If it won't go, its time to start pulling things off.

If you have a broken IP, I have parts for them, just send a PM.

 

[Alphabavo]

Not really. Some say you should turn it over by hand first. If it won't go, its time to start pulling things off.

If you have a broken IP, I have parts for them, just send a PM.

Turn over the engine, or turn over the pump?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Engine.

 

[Alphabavo]

Engine.

I was able to hand turn the engine via the fan, relatively easily.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I guess your ready to use the start knob then. Good luck on having a runner!

 

[jamawieb]

Also make sure the throttle linkage is free. My experience is that if it is hard to move up and down, then the IP is gummed up.

 

[Keith_J]

My 002a had a stiff throttle lever, I managed to take it apart and clean it with B12 Chemtool carb cleaner, then flushed it with clean diesel. Runs great now.

 

[GREENMV]

Also make sure the throttle linkage is free. My experience is that if it is hard to move up and down, then the IP is gummed up.

Just out of curiosity what process do you use to free up linkage? I have been removing the IP's and cleaning them. Pain In the Butt.

 

[jamawieb]

I will usually fill the two fuel filter canisters with mystery oil and then prime the unit, until the IP is filled with mystery oil. Turn the motor over by hand, let it sit a day and then turn it over again the next day. Then I try the linkage again, most times it will be free. If not, then I'll take the pump off and clean it.

 

[Keith_J]

I managed to take the lever off the injection pump while the pump was still on, it took a great deal of dexterity and a dental mirror to get it back together. Pulling it allowed full cleaning, fortunately the Oldham drive key (part that breaks when pump is gummed) was fine.

Oxidation is the enemy, empty fuel tanks causes it. Unlined fuel tanks contribute since rust (iron) catalyzes the oxidation of diesel, especially with the biodiesel blends.

 

[GREENMV]

I will usually fill the two fuel filter canisters with mystery oil and then prime the unit, until the IP is filled with mystery oil. Turn the motor over by hand, let it sit a day and then turn it over again the next day. Then I try the linkage again, most times it will be free. If not, then I'll take the pump off and clean it.

Thanks, I am going to try that on the next one.

 

[Alphabavo]

Looks like lawn tractor batteries aren't going to cut it for this application. Back to Pep boys for a couple group 51 batteries tomorrow.

what kind of stats should I be looking for on the batteries?

im guessing he reserve capacity is way to low on the batteries I have, they only turned the engine over about 4 times before they petered out.

 

[Isaac-1]

I have a pair of Exide Classic group 51R's on my MEP-002a which has a fairly new (2008?) Southern Automotive built type 1 starter and they don't have many cranks in them before draining down, I suspect it would be better if I had a type 2 gear reduction starter instead. I swapped the older type 1 starter out for a new import type 2 on my MEP-003a with Group 24 batteries and it noticeably improved battery cranking capacity (my MEP-003a is a bit hard to start, my MEP-002a starts much easier so I have not felt a need to do the starter swap even though it has the smaller group 51R batteries. Overall the Exide Classics work, and the only time I run into an issue is when I am trouble shooting with repeated short run times and cranking, mostly I use them because they are a decent battery and are available for about $75 each from tractor supply. (the local battery shop sells the exact same battery for $104)

Ike

 

[Keith_J]

The battery charge systems on these generators is of limited capacity, it is more like a motorcycle alternator than a belt driven automotive system, it takes much longer to recharge after starting. On my monthly run up, I run 90% listed power until the cooling air shutters are mostly open, this takes 30+ minutes.

Lawn tractor batteries lack both reserve capacity and cranking amperes. They might work in warm weather with a gear reduction starter. They are vibration resistant but so are most automotive batteries.

 

[Alphabavo]

Ok. Batteries are installed and it cranks great, but doesn't start. It does build oil pressure.

I pulled one of the lines off the fuel pump and cranked it for a couple seconds, and I'm not seeing any fuel coming from the pump. Next steps?

 

[cuad4u]

Are the electric fuel pumps getting fuel at the IP inlet? Loosen that fitting and see. If not remove and clean the check valve. Then try again.

 

[Alphabavo]

I can hear fuel running back into the tank. I'll pull that line and double check that fuel is making it to the injector pump.

 

[Keith_J]

Ok, you have fuel to the injection pump but no fuel to injectors? That could be the shut off solenoid. It must lift off the governor linkage to the injection pump during cranking, lift the air shroud and observe during cranking. If it energizes while cranking, the problem is in the injection pump, probably fuel varnish keeping the injection pump shut off.

If the injection pump is varnished, you will have to take it apart for cleaning.

 

[Alphabavo]

Ok, looks like the shut down solenoid engages and pulls away from the linkage, so the pump is going to need to be pulled. The steel return line on top of the pump is pretty well seized, so well see if getting it off is going to be a nightmare...