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New to me MEP-802A First Timer Questions

AveRageJoe001

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Howdy Folks!

New member here and First post. Ive been reading everything I can here and WHOA, lots of info. Thanks for everyone posting and all you do!!!

As many others have done, I purchased my first generator...ever! Its a 2004 MEP-802A from govplanet. Listing and pics all look good from the pc. Had a video of it running and sounded great. Had the little light lit up from the convenience outlet. I understand to take the listing with a grain of salt and Ill probly doing some work to getter top notch.

Ive searched and searched, read as many posts and stickys as I can but not finding what I am looking for.

Im looking for a basic "checklist" of sorts for things to look for and things to check before I start attempting to load test it. I get checking fluids, water in oil, belt, blow by ect... Then change fluids and filters. What all or specific things should I be looking at or checking?

I have downloaded all the TM's BUT, havent looked at them yet. Did I post this to soon and there is a checklist in them??

Little about me and intended use. USAF Vet 2000-2006, RC-135 Mechanic in the ISO/Phase Docks. Then worked Civil Service for the USAF 2013-2022 doing the same job. Just recently quit to pursue YouTube as a career.

Intended use will be as a backup for my work in progress off-grid system. Main plan is to continue using Solar of course to recharge our batteries. At the moment I use the grid as a backup especially in winter or extended cloud cover. In the event there is no grid or sun, use the genny to power home and recharge.

I also forgot to add that I dont have the genny yet, it should be here soon. Can post pictures if needed when it arrives.

Mucho Appreciated for any and all pointers
 

DieselAddict

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One of the things I do with a machine from auction (once I know it runs) is to change all the rubber components in the fuel system. Jet fuel is super hard on rubber parts. Its a virtual certainly that if they don't leak right away that they will start leaking when you least expect it leaving you with several gallons of fuel on the ground under the unit.

While its possible to do it with the top cover on, I strongly recommend removing the cover over the engine, removing the muffler, and removing the air cleaner. Once you have those parts out of the way, replacing the fuel lines are a LOT less frustrating.

The real challenge will be not buying more than one. :D
 

AveRageJoe001

New member
5
12
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Location
Omaha NE
One of the things I do with a machine from auction (once I know it runs) is to change all the rubber components in the fuel system. Jet fuel is super hard on rubber parts. Its a virtual certainly that if they don't leak right away that they will start leaking when you least expect it leaving you with several gallons of fuel on the ground under the unit.

While its possible to do it with the top cover on, I strongly recommend removing the cover over the engine, removing the muffler, and removing the air cleaner. Once you have those parts out of the way, replacing the fuel lines are a LOT less frustrating.

The real challenge will be not buying more than one. :D
I dont no how to insert replys from both but thanks Daybreak. I have looked through most of those post and have downloaded the TM's. Just need to look through them.

DieselAddict, Thanks for the reminder of jet fuel and rubber!!! I will for sure replace all the fuel lines. Id hate for them to leak when I need it most! Thanks for the tip on less frustration! Im a big fan of working smarter not harder when it comes to things like that. Although Ill admit I usually try the hard way a few times lol.

Challenge is REAL!! Ive already been looking at more!!! HAAA
 

Mullaney

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I dont no how to insert replys from both but thanks Daybreak. I have looked through most of those post and have downloaded the TM's. Just need to look through them.

DieselAddict, Thanks for the reminder of jet fuel and rubber!!! I will for sure replace all the fuel lines. Id hate for them to leak when I need it most! Thanks for the tip on less frustration! Im a big fan of working smarter not harder when it comes to things like that. Although Ill admit I usually try the hard way a few times lol.

Challenge is REAL!! Ive already been looking at more!!! HAAA
.
Hi @AveRageJoe001 ,

When you want to quote or call attention to more than one person, use the "@" in front of their user name.

For example, @DieselAddict and @Daybreak were both "pinged" when I sent this reply.
 

Guyfang

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You can also, if you want to answer to someones posting, like Daybreaks posting, (#2), instead of writing @Daybreak, What you can do is click on the REPLY button that is on the far right bottom side of his posting. And this is what you get:

Start in this thread.
MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts | SteelSoldiers
2nd post has quick links to important stuff.
3rd post has links to all the TM's you need.

Welcome.
This way, you can see the posting you want to answer. Daybreak is going to see your answer anyway, because he is part of this thread. You can also delete parts of the above red highlighted quote, like this:


Start in this thread.
MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts | SteelSoldiers
2nd post has quick links to important stuff.
3rd post has links to all the TM's you need.

Welcome.


Taking out the :


This way, the entire quote will be shown. If you dont understand what I wrote, say something. Then we can break it down farther. Try it, replying to this post.
 

Guyfang

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Correct! And sometimes, if the post is real long, it stays hidden, in the light green box. So that is why I delete the first and bottom line where it says Quote. Then the who post is visible. This is handy, when someone writes something real long. You can reply to the posting, and insert the answers to a question, in another color.
 

CallMeColt

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One of the things I do with a machine from auction (once I know it runs) is to change all the rubber components in the fuel system. Jet fuel is super hard on rubber parts. Its a virtual certainly that if they don't leak right away that they will start leaking when you least expect it leaving you with several gallons of fuel on the ground under the unit.

While its possible to do it with the top cover on, I strongly recommend removing the cover over the engine, removing the muffler, and removing the air cleaner. Once you have those parts out of the way, replacing the fuel lines are a LOT less frustrating.

The real challenge will be not buying more than one. :D
I second this all this. Suffered from it all myself on 3 of these units. Replacing the return fuel lines & the tank well nuts is a must. I hated these issues so much, I sourced reliable upgrades & now keep them stocked.
 

CallMeColt

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If it is of any help, I have made 3 separate threads with a lot of details on my excitement going through 3 of these units. All have a fair amount of links to parts. A few of the folks here helped me along the way. Like you, an MEP 802A was my first real surplus unit. Boy, that has turned into a bad habit. I guess it's better than spending it at the bar?
 

AveRageJoe001

New member
5
12
3
Location
Omaha NE
If it is of any help, I have made 3 separate threads with a lot of details on my excitement going through 3 of these units. All have a fair amount of links to parts. A few of the folks here helped me along the way. Like you, an MEP 802A was my first real surplus unit. Boy, that has turned into a bad habit. I guess it's better than spending it at the bar?
Ive been reading all about yours and have learned quite a bit! Watched the vids as well. Mine shows the fuse mod but not the blue disk. Will add asap. I should have mine tomorrow so the fun will begin!😄
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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113
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Ive been reading all about yours and have learned quite a bit! Watched the vids as well. Mine shows the fuse mod but not the blue disk. Will add asap. I should have mine tomorrow so the fun will begin!😄
I think I have some extra varistors. Send me a direct message & I will send you one. Of course if I still have some!!
 
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