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There is a lot of wiring problems and I can get a 350 fairly cheap ( $350.00 )I've got three 6.2L Hummer engines in the can. Might be easier than a 350 swap.
Did you have to change the relay out? Right now I have a 12V relay but I also have a 24V relay lying around....not sure if its good but Im willing to try. I also have about 50 glow plugs all 24V. trying to figure out how I can put this puzzle together!!My last Blazer I had I run the 24v glow plugs and they worked great I just bypassed the res. pack run 24v straight to the relay. It all worked great. I had a ton of them too that is why I ran them.
No, it really is the biggest PITA on these trucks. Although it is a nice looking, clean design, it is a poor design. The cranks and regulators are very flimsy, and that is an ass heavy piece of glass. GM lightened the windshield and side windows in 1981 from the heavy design used from '73 - '80, but the Blazer rear window remained the same from '73 - '91.You know what I always wondered about the Blazers - both the military and the civvy ones : what is going on with the busted rear windows on them? Almost every one I have seen in person either had a missing rear window, or it wouldn't roll up/down. I have a hard time believing that out of all the problems a car could have, the back window is the lynchpin on Blazers....
No, it really is the biggest PITA on these trucks. Although it is a nice looking, clean design, it is a poor design. The cranks and regulators are very flimsy, and that is an ass heavy piece of glass. GM lightened the windshield and side windows in 1981 from the heavy design used from '73 - '80, but the Blazer rear window remained the same from '73 - '91.
I've learned over years if you keep them clean and greased, and easily roll the window up and down fairly often, they OK. I usually only keep about 4 or 6 screws in the access panel on the gate, and try to check everything fairly regulator. If it ever gets "sticky" I grease it right then, before rolling it back up. If you don't roll down the window for a couple months and let it get kinda stuck and then just try to bulldog it down real quick, you can pop the crank or regulator on the spot.
I'll let you have one of the 6.2L for the same $350. Seems like alot less work.....LOLThere is a lot of wiring problems and I can get a 350 fairly cheap ( $350.00 )
I did not change my because it still use 12v to switch on and offDid you have to change the relay out? Right now I have a 12V relay but I also have a 24V relay lying around....not sure if its good but Im willing to try. I also have about 50 glow plugs all 24V. trying to figure out how I can put this puzzle together!!
is it a complete engine or will I have to take somethings off my and put on it?I'll let you have one of the 6.2L for the same $350. Seems like alot less work.....LOL
They are takeouts in cans from GL. As in all takeouts you will have to transfer most on the add-on components. Alternaters, brackets, starter, etc.is it a complete engine or will I have to take somethings off my and put on it?
When you bought those did they say if they ran?They are takeouts in cans from GL. As in all takeouts you will have to transfer most on the add-on components. Alternaters, brackets, starter, etc.
Since they are HMMWV engines the pullies and exhaust will also need to be changed out.
P.S. - This is not an ad to sell some some. just trying to help a fellow SS member with some spare parts I have.
When you bought those did they say if they ran?
Actually never. Ive looked once but I don't deal with them as I send them alot of my junk stuff (engines, trannys, starters, alts....) so I wouldn't take a chance buying from them.How long have you been looking at GL? They never say if they run or not.
It is always Buyer Beware.................
But these came from Ft Riley and they do the heavy armor upgrades there, so the chances of them running are very good.
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