New2Me 1961 M37

[NDT]

Parasitic draw is usually the starter switch. Open it and clean vaporized metal deposits.

 

[Txsrooster]

I managed to get the truck started the other day, but when I turned the switch back to the Off position, the engine kept running. I used the secret "security" switch that the previous owner installed that kills power to the ignition to shut the engine off. So may be an issue in the switch. Funny thing is, that the starter will not turn when pressing the starter pedal with the switch off.

 

[Wreckclues]

On some of these, the tool to pull the oil drain plug is just a 1/2" drive ratchet with no socket on it.

Worked for me on transmission diffs and gear box of my M813, but I think the 5/8 socket plug worked best.

 

[G744]

If the starter won't go with the security switch off, there has to be a big relay in the chain somewheres.

 

[Txsrooster]

I have to wait for a few sunny days to recharge the battery. My shop is off grid and its been really cloudy these last couple of days so the power system is struggling to keep the lights on.

 

[Txsrooster]

I changed out the master cylinder and successfully bled the brakes. The pedal no longer smacks the fire wall when pressed. I think I need to bleed them again as there is some sponginess to them. Getting closer to driving to the car wash for a much needed bath and vacuum.

 

[Txsrooster]

Got the brakes properly bled, went to start it up, and it will turn over but will not start. I pulled one of the sparkplugs and it is dry, so not sure if fuel is getting making it to the cylinders. I turn on the electric fuel pump and see fuel in the filter leading to the carb, so pretty sure I have a carburetor issue. Luckily I bought a carb rebuild kit I guess. I did go ahead and order the Pertronix MV-161A to match the new coil I ordered. edited cause I ain't the gooderest speller.

 

[Txsrooster]

Parasitic draw is usually the starter switch. Open it and clean vaporized metal deposits.

I found the parasitic draw. Previous owner installed a ignition kill switch, that when turned on supplies power to the ignition system. It was his "Security" measure to prevent someone from stealing the truck.

 

[Txsrooster]

Well...I ain't got no spark. New coil so Don't think that's it. I tried updating to the electronic system instead of the just replacing the points and condenser and that didn't fix it. I pulled the plug and had a friend watch as I turned it over and he verified no spark. @NDT let me know if you got some time to come take a look, as you might be able to see something I don't.

 

[G744]

Pull the dist cap, and crank while using a short piece of wire from ground to close to the HV coil output to see if you're getting spark. If so, then your rotor or cap or wires are/is defective.

 

[NDT]

The distributor caps are notorious for getting hairline cracks and then the juice jumps to ground right there. Do as G744 advises.

 

[Txsrooster]

Luckily I have a spare distributer that came with the truck if it turns out that its bad.

 

[John Mc]

Do you have power to the distributor?

 

[Txsrooster]

Do you have power to the distributor?

That's is another great question..

 

[Txsrooster]

Well I got a chance to swing by to measure..I hope this doesn't mean my coil is bad... edit to remove duplicate photo

 

[Txsrooster]

Well I got a chance to swing by to measure..I hope this doesn't mean my coil is bad... edit to remove duplicate photo

I used my multimeter and tested resistance from the positive to the center point on the coil and got "OL"...same for the center to the negative post. I get 12.4 ohms from the positive to the negative terminal on the coil.

 

[G744]

You have to run the starter to turn the dist to open & close the points to get spark, and not with a meter. Just a jumper from ground to close to the HV end of the coil.

 

[Txsrooster]

I ran the starter and had a small wire from the coil to the ground. It made for a small spark... nothing to write home about, but it's a spark.

 

[Txsrooster]

The new coil came in and I checked the resistance from pos to neg and it is also 12ohms, so makes me think that the old coil isn't bad. I guess next is the cap.

 

[Txsrooster]

Well I won't pretend to understand it, but I installed the new coil (which tested the exact same with a multimeter as the old coil) and she fired right up. Drove it around the property for a bit to test the brakes and they worked beautifully. Next to tackle some of the electrical mess that is in there and get the brake lights working.