Newbie checking out a deuce today??

[Recy Mech]

Great thread read - subscribed.......so I can learn a bit more.

Everyday a school day.

 

[andytk5]

Cool man. Hope it helps somebody out!

 

[andytk5]

Holy shhhhhnickers.. I just changed the oil in the deuce and I got 2 1/4 5gallon buckets full of oil! It came out pretty soupy/watery so I would assume that diesel was mixed in with it..

Now, does this mean I have some kind of catastrophic issue? I know some diesels get diesel passing into the crankcase from excessive idling (new cummins/powerstrokes on their forums, plus my buddy with a commercial 6.7 cummins has that issue). This is the first oil change from the DRMO and it sat forever too so maybe that has something to do with it?

Also I added Lucas Oil Stabilizer to it 1 qt and filled it up with 5gallon adn 2 qts of shell rotella. The Oil psi jumps up quicker and it goes to 60 psi where before it was only getting 15-30psi..

On to the fuel filters now.

 

[andytk5]

Pics of the change.
Primary
secondary
final

seemed to be a rusted spot in the final so I sanded it down and cleaned all three cans out, some redish junk was flowing out. Did that till they were both clear. Swapped the seals out on the oil and the primary but couldn't get them on the secondary/final filters.. Oh well.

Kicked on the pump, opened the top bleed on the secondaries and bled a little out of each filter. Closed top bleed once fuel was coming out. Cranked up after a couple of tries then good to go.

Oil pressure is definitely just a hair over 60psi (middle of guage) oil press comes up quicker too. Engine seems quieter if thats at all possible. Also turbo gets oil quicker and quiets down faster. May add another Lucas bottle.

4/2 - drove around a little while getting diesel since gas buddy says its "only" $3.97, woohoo.. Added some lucas fuel treatment. Oil pressure has since lowered to 30psi~. I guess it needed to warm up and circulate. Started a little rough also but cranked after a second. Pressure jumped right up - nice!

side note - removed my springer seat back, and that gave me more than enough legroom. I'm going to make a custom padded back out of some plywood and foam, then cover it with a that green seat material. Much more comfortable driving position. Time for a/c is nigh..

 

[andytk5]

Here is the 12V alt and a wiring diagram that came with it. Only question I have is if I can use the the deuce's ignition switch being that it is a 24V system to match the drawing?

 

[steelandcanvas]

Here is the 12V alt and a wiring diagram that came with it. Only question I have is if I can use the the deuce's ignition switch being that it is a 24V system to match the drawing?

You'll need to have 12 VDC to get the alternator excited. This can be a seperate switch, or use a 24 VDC relay off your ignition switch and use the contact closure on that to excite the alternator. Wire #57 would be a good point to energize your relay from.

 

[andytk5]

You'll need to have 12 VDC to get the alternator excited. This can be a seperate switch, or use a 24 VDC relay off your ignition switch and use the contact closure on that to excite the alternator. Wire #57 would be a good point to energize your relay from.

Diggin the relay idea over the switch. Thanks alot for the reply.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Diggin the relay idea over the switch. Thanks alot for the reply.

Andy, Do you need a drawing, or do you have her figured out

 

[andytk5]

Andy, Do you need a drawing, or do you have her figured out

Flipping thru my TMs that should be "instrument panel ground" correct?

Do the relay like this?

 

[steelandcanvas]

Flipping thru my TMs that should be "instrument panel ground" correct?

Do the relay like this?

Your diagram is spot on. #57 should come off of terminal "B" of the ignition switch. It should be a switched leg that feeds the fuel pump, and the low air pressure buzzer. Here is a good place to get Mil-Spec connectors, if you want to do it that way.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS & TERMINALS

I'll check again on that wire number, I'm having some dfficulty reading my wiring schematics, the print is too small!

 

[andytk5]

Your diagram is spot on. #57 should come off of terminal "B" of the ignition switch. It should be a switched leg that feeds the fuel pump, and the low air pressure buzzer. Here is a good place to get Mil-Spec connectors, if you want to do it that way.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS & TERMINALS

I'll check again on that wire number, I'm having some dfficulty reading my wiring schematics, the print is too small!

Great! Thanks so much for the assistance. I'd like to keep it as clean an install as I can so I'll check that site.

edit: Lol, been there a bunch, thanks for reminding me though so I didn't use a lame jumper!

 

[andytk5]

Painting my 12V alt bracket now. Then work on install later.

Parallel project: Trying to sniff out the source of all the fuel in the oil I learned my FDC was already bypassed. I know that can be a source for this if not funtioning properly. Now I am a little stumped on where else it can be coming from. I will search thru the old threads as I know I'm not the only person this has happened to.

 

[Horst]

I would say a bad lower o-ring in the HH could cause that

 

[andytk5]

I would say a bad lower o-ring in the HH could cause that

Thanks for some guidance on that.

 

[andytk5]

Jesus what a pain the HH is. Most of my injector lines won't come off the HH so they are coming with it. Have em disconnected from the injectors and ready to go and I have the small plate off in front of the HH to line up the marks and I am gettign to the one under the shutoff cover where the red painted tooth and pointer is. From my reading that tooth needs to be one tooth to the rearf of the pointer and I need to use the correct timing mark on the damper before I pull the HH off.

Biggest problem I am having is how to manually turn the engine over?? I haven't come across that in the threads covering the HH removal and the TM9-2910-226-34 only shows it when the entire inj pump is off the motor.

 

[Horst]

Actually that is easier than you might think. Stand on the front bumper and turn the engine with the fan blades with one hand while using the other hand to tension the belts. You will be only able to turn it in one direction.

For removing the HH I would turn the red tooth exactly under the mark. The hint for one valley before the mark is only important if you time the HH. If you don't turn the engine with the HH off, no need. Just reinstall as removed. If you put it exactly at the mark no guesswork later. In any case the HH must come off with no force at all. Only if it won't , you will need to turn the engine at little further. For removing and installing the HH only, you can ignore the mark under the door with the four screws.

 

[andytk5]

Actually that is easier than you might think. Stand on the front bumper and turn the engine with the fan blades with one hand while using the other hand to tension the belts. You will be only able to turn it in one direction.

For removing the HH I would turn the red tooth exactly under the mark. The hint for one valley before the mark is only important if you time the HH. If you don't turn the engine with the HH off, no need. Just reinstall as removed. If you put it exactly at the mark no guesswork later. In any case the HH must come off with no force at all. Only if it won't , you will need to turn the engine at little further. For removing and installing the HH only, you can ignore the mark under the door with the four screws.

Awesome! Thanks so much for the help. I guess I was stumped since I was also putting on my 12V alt and had those belts loose. I'll tighten them up so I can spin it over.

 

[andytk5]

Raaawwrrr!!! Thank god I finally got this B out! Thanks for your help on that Horst, who knows what kind of stuff I would be ordering otherwise!

Here is where I am now. I took the side bolt ut before pulling it and caught that little metal part, phew! I'm going to get the fuel lines off this so it is easier to work on. Seemed to be a little bit of fuel around the fuel lines meeting the HH. I see the 2 orings large and smaller. Try to find some viton ones I think. I did that on my biodiesel processor in place of rubber. Here are some pics.

Went to ACE.. nada... Anyhow sent in my order for some samples from "apple rubber"

http://www.applerubber.com/

got the Viton orings and hopefully 3 of each size so I can make a repair kit for the future if needed. So for the next few days it is a 13,000 lb yard ornament.. lol

 

[andytk5]

When I put the HH back in I need to have that gear lined up just like I took it out correct? Grr...

 

[Horst]

Sure. If you haven't turned the engine in the time it was off. If the scribed tooth was exactly under the notch install it that way. If you have turned it, different topic.