Newbie's First Post

[tobyS]

Now that everyone has dissed the sprag, I had one in my 817 and after resetting the bearings on all three shafts, the TC worked great. I felt it pull when it was needed and never had to mess with it. However my TC was new in the truck and must not have been set up properly, which did require me to drop it and set the bearing preloading. No complaints by me for the sprag. And it is somewhat forgiving when tires on the front are slightly bigger I believe (but I never got them on).

 

[Bravotroop]

The plot thickens. May be an M35A2 with homemade plate and added-on turbo.

 

[18operator]

Welcome from Ohio! Good luck in your venture.

 

[SCSG-G4]

The plot thickens. May be an M35A2 with homemade plate and added-on turbo.

Not a home-made dataplate, just one that happened to be available when the motor pool did something requiring a new one. If the cargo bed is 12 feet long and centered over the rear wheels, it is probably a regular cargo deuce. Since you are in Charlottesville, you should PM 'steelypip' as that is where he lives. Ran should be able to look it over and give you a definitive answer. AND, you need to make plans to come to the Labor Day Rally at Graves Mountain (Syria, VA) so a bunch of us can lay eyes on your new truck! Straight up US 29, even in a deuce you could be there in less than an hour.

 

[98G]

Thanks, all, for the welcome and advice. I'll get pictures of truck once the sun comes up, and learn how to post them. If I drop the input shaft to the sprag transfer case, truck is okay to drive at 40-45 mph, right? Working with seller today on brake lights. Hope to get Virginia tags/inspection tomorrow. Maybe (crossing my fingers) rear axels alone will get me up the mountain.

You're worried too much about the Sprag. I just finished a 1500 mile trip in a truck equipped with a sprag... highway speed. No issues.

 

[Bravotroop]

Seems definitely to be an m35A2, pix of cargo box and whelbase attached. Engine plate (riveted on, unlike model plate in cab which has four sheetmetal screws) is Hercules LD 465-1 (NA, right?). Clearly there's a turbo to be seen in pic, and I heard the unmistakeable whistle. Turbo perhaps added at some time after engine was nameplated?

 

[98G]

There was a "clean air kit" which added a turbo to nonturbo M35A2s.

 

[98G]

It may be camera angle, but the rear tires look taller than the front. Have a look at tire sizes.... size mismatch is a red flag.

(I think it's camera angle)

 

[glcaines]

Not a home-made dataplate, just one that happened to be available when the motor pool did something requiring a new one. If the cargo bed is 12 feet long and centered over the rear wheels, it is probably a regular cargo deuce. Since you are in Charlottesville, you should PM 'steelypip' as that is where he lives. Ran should be able to look it over and give you a definitive answer. AND, you need to make plans to come to the Labor Day Rally at Graves Mountain (Syria, VA) so a bunch of us can lay eyes on your new truck! Straight up US 29, even in a deuce you could be there in less than an hour.

If the dataplate isn't original, I would advise you to compare the numbers on the data plate to the numbers stamped on the frame. When I was in the Army, it was very common to swap data plates and change USA numbers. Before inspections, we would sometimes visit another unit, steal the vehicle, swap numbers and data plates and leave our inferior vehicle in it's place. The permanent numbers on an M35A2 are stamped and located on the frame rail on the drivers side just rear of the steering box and facing the outside. Sometimes you have to scrape paint, undercoating or other trash off to see the numbers. I recommend that anyone thinking of a purchase check the numbers. The numbers on the frame rail will definitely tell you what you have.

 

[DavidWymore]

Welcome, good looking truck, and thanks for serving!

If you're gonna 6-wheel, air shift. I use mine in the desert a lot. Can't afford to be hoping she grabs. Want it on when I want it and not when I don't.

 

[Bravotroop]

Roger that, DavidWymore. Will go to air once I locate a T-136-27 air unit. Currently has T-136-21. Tires are all 9.00-20 8-ply (in reply to 98G). In reply to GICaines, 18" aft of steering box frame shows three lines top to bottom (1) 22-2793-L (2) July 14-66 (3) 7529034. Pic attached. I can't decode those numbers. Triple-posted frame picture in case of shadows.

 

[DavidWymore]

7529034 is your number. Other is frame rail part number.

I'm rusty on my deciphering but check out these articles.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162397-Deuce-ID-article-missing!

 

[Bravotroop]

Geat article! Thanks, DavidWymore. Virginia title lists 1966 Kaiser, VIN: 4J-9001. That's legal, consistent, and good enough for me. I'm gonna finalize the deal tonight and try to register the Deuce tomorrow. Thanks, all!

 

[98G]

Geat article! Thanks, DavidWymore. Virginia title lists 1966 Kaiser, VIN: 4J-9001. That's legal, consistent, and good enough for me. I'm gonna finalize the deal tonight and try to register the Deuce tomorrow. Thanks, all!

Please update the VA legal post with your success or failure registering it. With the recent changes, it'll be good info to have either way.

 

[Tracer]

Congrats on your purchase, and take some pics of your truck & return trip.

 

[Bravotroop]

Sailed through DMV with Title, registration, and tags. Passed Virginia State Inspection first try. Thank you, everyone, for your help getting to this day. I am very, very happy.

 

[92ramaro]

I have also had sprag units engage when driving at highway speed. The steering wheel starts jumping around and loud banging noises. They can also engage on the highway and wear your front tires quickly.

Is that the result of an actual component that was out of adjustment/broken or are you saying that the sprag t-case will do this under its best operating conditions.

 

[Lovetofix]

Is that the result of an actual component that was out of adjustment/broken or are you saying that the sprag t-case will do this under its best operating conditions.

I am in the midst of repairing a malfunctioning sprag unit on my M817 which has the T-138.


I had to back up a hill, around a corner, fully loaded truck with a fully loaded M1061 trailer because of an oncoming truck.


When I shifted to forward again the sprag stayed stuck in Reverse position. (that problem has been solved) As I pulled forward I felt it start to bind and hit the clutch and brake. At the same moment the sprag “Let Loose” the whole truck jumped with a terrible bang. I thought I blew the case up like the 939 series but it all appeared fine. I pulled on forward off the trail VERY slowly and no noises or anything unusual and gave it a good inspection. Pulled the hub caps on the front which allowed me to test the axle lock up. Both were good all the way to the transfer, but I could sometimes get the sprag to slip when in reverse. Drained some oil after a mile or so and it was perfectly clean, so I took it home. I expected to find something cracked but the only thing I can find wrong is that there are flat spots on outside of the sprag wedges/rollers which alters their width and in turn affects angle, allowing them them them to stack closer and creates extra space.

I have a video clip of the sprag slipping with just hand pressure, but I don’t know how to post a video clip yet.

All that to say: Looking at how it all works in the 138 (I believe the 136 is the same) if it is locking up the front while rolling down the road it would have to be worn wedges or rough race not allowing it to free wheel.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[92ramaro]

I am in the midst of repairing a malfunctioning sprag unit on my M817 which has the T-138.
View attachment 785114

I had to back up a hill, around a corner, fully loaded truck with a fully loaded M1061 trailer because of an oncoming truck.
View attachment 785115

When I shifted to forward again the sprag stayed stuck in Reverse position. (that problem has been solved) As I pulled forward I felt it start to bind and hit the clutch and brake. At the same moment the sprag “Let Loose” the whole truck jumped with a terrible bang. I thought I blew the case up like the 939 series but it all appeared fine. I pulled on forward off the trail VERY slowly and no noises or anything unusual and gave it a good inspection. Pulled the hub caps on the front which allowed me to test the axle lock up. Both were good all the way to the transfer, but I could sometimes get the sprag to slip when in reverse. Drained some oil after a mile or so and it was perfectly clean, so I took it home. I expected to find something cracked but the only thing I can find wrong is that there are flat spots on outside of the sprag wedges/rollers which alters their width and in turn affects angle, allowing them them them to stack closer and creates extra space. View attachment 785113

I have a video clip of the sprag slipping with just hand pressure, but I don’t know how to post a video clip yet.

All that to say: Looking at how it all works in the 138 (I believe the 136 is the same) if it is locking up the front while rolling down the road it would have to be worn wedges or rough race not allowing it to free wheel.
View attachment 785116


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I appreciate the thorough reply. Gives me something to look for if I decide to stick with the 136 and open it up before installation. Unless I find a reasonable air shift t-case close to me of course.

 

[Ajax MD]

@Lovetofix

I also have an M809 series with the T138. Much respect for having the guts to dive into your transfer case. Mine had severely worn output shaft bearings for the front and rear propeller shafts. Only the jack shaft was snug. I replaced the whole unit with a rebuilt transfer case.

Since you've torn into yours, what would you rate the difficulty of replacing output shaft bearings or even rebuilding the whole unit? I'm trying to decide what to do with my old T138. (sell, rebuild, pay to have rebuilt)