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NHC250 blows?

simp5782

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Hmmm...check this out: https://www.amazon.com/Miles-Everco...eeze-Gallon/dp/B00YUL3N72#feature-bullets-btf

Green, does not say anything about "extended life", comes precharged with SCA, but you do have to add water.
EDIT: Nope, I was wrong. It does say "extended life" but doesn't really explain how or why.

Geeze, I think 319cssb has probably found the best stuff. The description clearly states "conventional" and "for older vehicles" as well as "light duty diesel applications."
All of the coolants I found on Wal-Mart's pages are ELC.
You are looking for glycol low silicate
 

US6x4

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On the topic of coolant, does it have life span in the vehicle? I have no idea how old mine is (as old as the trucks last military service possibly) but if I drain it and strain it and if it tests out to provide enough freezing protection can it just be reused? Does it break down over time and become acidic or corrosive?
 

319cssb

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On the topic of coolant, does it have life span in the vehicle? I have no idea how old mine is (as old as the trucks last military service possibly) but if I drain it and strain it and if it tests out to provide enough freezing protection can it just be reused? Does it break down over time and become acidic or corrosive?
I think the PH test strips help you to determine that.
 

Scrounger

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Coolant does wear out. Fresh coolant has an additive package that protects the cooling system from corrosion and provides lubrication for the water pump bearing. Over time the additives get used up.

One way to tell is by using PH strips.

The old standby method was to check the freeze point with a Duo-Check and then check the PH with test strips.

Commercial over the road trucks frequently have coolant filters, and replacement filters come with an additive package in them.

While one could install a coolant filter and add an additive package, for most of the owners of these vehicles that is not necessary. A yearly check with a Duo-Check and checking the PH will more than suffice.
 

Iceman3005

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You could use waterless coolant! Then you avoid having to mess with ph, and cavitation all together.

Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk
 

Iceman3005

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I thought so. No need to mess with ph, no cavitation, and it has a lifetime warranty, never needs changing, won't cause corrosion or rust inside engine, no pressure when its hot, it doesn't expand. So there isn't any pressure on any thing! I can open reservoir when engine is at operating temp.

Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk
 

319cssb

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I have to admit. It does sound appealing.
How about engine temperature? Is there a difference in coolant temperature?
And what is covered under the lifetime warranty? engine failure due to coolant? or just the coolant itself?

I think I'll give it a try on my CUCV
 

Iceman3005

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Engine and the coolant are covered As far as temp, it runs about 10 degrees cooler, was running 180-190 and now it runs about 170-175. I replaced the radiator, thermostat, and added a heater core.

Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk
 

US6x4

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My water manifold has the black sludge that others have experienced so I'm going to do a flush/ clean with fresh coolant. However, when my heater fitting sprung a leak it left rust streaks all over my truck. I'm trying to remember what rust indicates- cavitation or electrolysis? If I get my coolant mixture back where it should be will the rust issue go away?

20190914_161814.jpg 20190914_161750.jpg
 
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simp5782

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Yes it will go away. You will have a hard time getting it all out. Pull the manifold and use electrolysis on it to get it clean. Or buy another
 
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