No front end drive

[Oops$$$]

Did a little wheeling last night. I was on a muddy hill climb with a little extra wheel spin....
Bang.... both front tires locked up. I reversed down the hill dragging the front tires.
A hour later with some push and pull the front end popped and wheels turned but no front end drive. Lost H completely, was able to ride back in HL but still no 4x4 in the front at all.
Will be pulling it in the shop soon, any ideas where to start.
Thanks

 

[Oops$$$]

Did a little wheeling last night. I was on a muddy hill climb with a little extra wheel spin....
Bang.... both front tires locked up. I reversed down the hill dragging the front tires.
A hour later with some push and pull the front end popped and wheels turned but no front end drive. Lost H completely, was able to ride back in HL but still no 4x4 in the front at all.
Will be pulling it in the shop soon, any ideas where to start.
Thanks

Oh I'm running a m1123

 

[Coug]

So it sounds like you broke something.

the most usual thing to break when you're having wheelspin and then hit the brakes (not saying you did) is one of the halfshafts, either the CV joint or the shaft itself. (once the wheel is spinning, that is a lot of weight for the shaft to deal with. with the inboard brakes if you slam on the brake all the force of the spinning tire has to go through the portal hub and the halfshaft, and the halfshaft is usually the weakest link. It's also the easiest to repair, just buy and install a new 12k front shaft for that location)

that doesn't necessarily explain everything being locked up though. if one shaft broke I'd only expect it to lock up one side, not both. To bind up both front wheels I'd expect the failure to be in the front diff.

Jack the front end in the air, put it on jack stands or a lift if you have one, and start by spinning one wheel and seeing what all moves. Then do the other wheel.

 

[papakb]

Sounds more like the transfer case grenaded. That would explain the lock up and then free up. My advice would be to not try to drive it and be very careful towing it around in case there's a brokem tooth floating around inside.

 

[Oops$$$]

Sounds more like the transfer case grenaded. That would explain the lock up and then free up. My advice would be to not try to drive it and be very careful towing it around in case there's a brokem tooth floating around inside.

I believe you are correct. Probably pull it this week. Best place/brand for parts?

 

[Action]

Why not put in H and D and get under it to see what is spinning first?

 

[Oops$$$]

Took the transfer case out and pulled it apart. Looks like I need a new planetary carrier bearing. Its the bigger bearing with multiple gears inside. Two different sizes meshing together.
I'm having trouble finding it.

 

[osteo16]

NP242 Rebuilt Transfer Case — Midwest Transmission Center

Below you will find a detailed list that includes complete rebuilt NP242 Transfer Cases, In addition you will find parts for the NP242 including bearing rebuild kits, gaskets, seals, small parts, bushings & thrust washers,&nb

www.midwesttrans.com

Here's a generic link with some prices and diagrams.. For info only, I just typed in " NP242 parts "

Like I said, just type in some info and search.. Plenty of stuff out there to help your repair, Of course I have a M998 with a NP218, so I was kinda assuming yours might have the NP242... BUT im frequently mistaken..

 

[gimpyrobb]

I've got a new tcase sitting in my barn that I doubt I'll use. np242

 

[Oops$$$]

I've got a new tcase sitting in my barn that I doubt I'll use. np242

Price?

 

[Oops$$$]

Through more research I have found out that my m1123. 2009 humvee transfer case (which is the 242 model) is a civilian. What gets me is I don't believe it was ever messed with. The military one has open gears and a full oil cooler around the inside housing. They also strengthen the case itself.
The problem with the military one is that it says not for high speeds. I don't know if that's why the civilian one is in my rig or not. Either way the civilian one didnt hold up well..... now I'm looking for the military style.

 

[Action]

Through more research I have found out that my m1123. 2009 humvee transfer case (which is the 242 model) is a civilian. What gets me is I don't believe it was ever messed with. The military one has open gears and a full oil cooler around the inside housing. They also strengthen the case itself.
The problem with the military one is that it says not for high speeds. I don't know if that's why the civilian one is in my rig or not. Either way the civilian one didnt hold up well..... now I'm looking for the military style.

It sounds like your HMMWV was messed with in 2009. If it was a 2009, you would likely have the 2225 transfer case and a serial number over 300,000.

 

[Oops$$$]

It sounds like your HMMWV was messed with in 2009. If it was a 2009, you would likely have the 2225 transfer case and a serial number over 300,000.

Just under 300,000 on the serial number

 

[Oops$$$]

What is the difference between the np 2225 transfer case and the mm mp2225 case? Seems like the np is half the price...

 

[Action]

What is the difference between the np 2225 transfer case and the mm mp2225 case? Seems like the np is half the price...

I left the letters out of my mention of 2225, because I don't know if it should be NP or MP. I was told it is MP for Magna Powertrain that builds in. But all the tags I see have New Process on them (NP).

 

[Oops$$$]

Picked up a np 2225.
I'm currently in the process of reworking trans oil cooling lines. Seems like I won't need the metering block ( not positive) to limit the amount of oil to the older 242 trans case. So I'm going to remove it and take the two lines from the tnsmission and connect them straight back to the cooler.
At this point I'm back to re working new coolant lines to the new 2225 case. Not sure if the loop in the case has a in and out or none directional. Taking the new ⅝ line upfront and looking for a good place to T in. I was thinking of doing it on the ⅝ line coming out of the water pump to the heater core box. Then the hot line that comes out of the t case to go into the out side of the heater core box past the mixing valve. I believe this will work but I have yet to hear, find any good info on it.
My only other thought is to pull apart the front and see if there are some easy to get to extra ⅝ ports on the side of the radiator.
Any first hand info would be great.

 

[Action]

If the "metering block" you refer to is on the transmission crossmember, that is there for the transmission.

At the front end, the factory attaches one end of the loop to a 90 degree elbow on the lower stainless radiator tube (with drain). The other hooks to the top of the water crossover pipe to a threaded adapter pointing to the RH side.
You should have an electrical sender for the fan stuck in the water crossover hole. The REV do not have a hydraulic fan.

The factory also send the coolant back through the rear diff cover.

 

[Coug]

If the "metering block" you refer to is on the transmission crossmember, that is there for the transmission.

At the front end, the factory attaches one end of the loop to a 90 degree elbow on the lower stainless radiator tube (with drain). The other hooks to the top of the water crossover pipe to a threaded adapter pointing to the RH side.
You should have an electrical sender for the fan stuck in the water crossover hole. The REV do not have a hydraulic fan.

The factory also send the coolant back through the rear diff cover.

Shouldn't be the REV as he said it was an M1123.

 

[Action]

Shouldn't be the REV as he said it was an M1123.

The person asked for some first hand info on hooking up the 5/8" hoses. I simply stated where the factory hooked them up on the REV. Those were the only models that had this transfer case.
He/she cant hook to the water crossover location, because there is an electrical sender there, which is not on the REV.

 

[Action]

The lower connection elbow installs where the red plug is.