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no power/electrical/starting issue 1986 M1009

myolddiesel

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jackson nj
Hello all, I have a 1986 m1009 cucv.
To give you the whole story, It drove fine for a good few months, I started it up one morning and heard some sort of pop like a short or something but it drove fine. When I tried to restart I get nothing my entire electrical system is not working. No crank,clicks,lights,horn,etc... . I still get 24 volts to the doghead relay and when i turn the key it drops to 12v. I'm assuming there is a short somewhere any help on where look for it would be awesome. Thanks.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Hello all, I have a 1986 m1009 cucv.
To give you the whole story, It drove fine for a good few months, I started it up one morning and heard some sort of pop like a short or something but it drove fine. When I tried to restart I get nothing my entire electrical system is not working. No crank,clicks,lights,horn,etc... . I still get 24 volts to the doghead relay and when i turn the key it drops to 12v. I'm assuming there is a short somewhere any help on where look for it would be awesome. Thanks.
My guess behind the rear battery check all the fusible links. And like I always say. It still has fusible links and dirty connections that need tightened and cleaned. Good Luck. Report back.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

cucvrus

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Just go back there and look around. I think 2 or 3. But I don't know if someone was hacking away at that thing by not seeing it. If I could help I would. But without seeing I am lost and guessing at best. Go look. Pull on the wires. They should be firm and tight. Or they are loose and internally burnt off. Report back.
 

cucvrus

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Small wires from the upper positive side of the buss bar. Tug gently if they stretch they are burnt off. Check the one that runs over to the power point at the master cylinder. That link may be burnt off. Report back. Good Luck. I will help if I can. How about some nice pictures. Have the batteries been checked and load tested lately? That may be a good place to start. is it still 24 VOLT?
 

MarcusOReallyus

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They All seem to be fine. No visible damage.
That means nothing. Nothing.

A fusible link can be completely toasted and look just fine. You need to test with a meter or a test light.

And don't look at connections, either. Take them apart, clean them, apply some dielectric grease, and put them back together. Then you know you have a good connection.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
but i'm going away for a bit.

I hope not up state for too long. Report back. But yes a test light is handy to have. And a volt meter. Test light for sure. Good Luck. PM me if you need any help.
 

myolddiesel

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jackson nj
Hey guys sorry for the long delay. as I saw somewhere else on the forum "keep it simple stupid" (Occams razor). I went to the beginning took off all the terminals from the battery's cleaned and replaced some and it started up like a charm. I guess it really should have been the first thing to do but i was getting 24 volts across both so i figured it wasn't the issue.... Now I'm gonna ask a silly question, where is the switch for the hazards on the truck? as they are on and I can't seem to figure out how to get them off. Thanks for all your help/advice Never mind I found it. Thanks again
 
Last edited:

n8roro

Member
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IL
The hazard switch is in the right side of the steering column near the ignition. It is a little black nub. Pull the collar out to turn off.
 
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