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Boogiessundance · Aug 30, 2020

Hallo , I am the proud owner of an CUCV , M 1009 ´83 . come from Germany and think it´s a shame that there is very little knowledge about these CUCV is here .

I haven´t been driving the Blazer that long and currently have a electrical problem . It started with the sudden lighting up of some indicator lights .
Then the engine suddenly failed , the ignition was dead . After a little waiting time with the ignition key in Pos. on it suddenly starts again .
Now the ignition is dead and it doesn´t even start anymore .
What have I done so far : I installed a new ignition relay and a new ignition switch , I checked all groundings according to your list here , th batteries are fully chsrged , Gen i and II work perfectly . i have 12V on the firewall and also on the fuse for the ignition ! But no voltage on the connector of the ignition switch . The red cable to the starter relay is live . The indicators , brake lights and front lights work . Dash is dead .
I just don´t know what to do next .... and i would be very happy about your help !
Greetings from Germany

jcollings · Aug 30, 2020

Here some links that you should review I'm sure lots of people will be charming in about your problem.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=20191&share_type=t&link_source=app

[/URL]

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jcollings · Aug 30, 2020

Chiming in....Dam auto correct

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Boogiessundance · Aug 30, 2020

jcollings said:
Chiming in....Dam auto correct

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Thanks ! I have just measured the location of the fuse in the fuse box and there is voltage on one side and nothing on the other .... fuse box defective ?

jcollings · Aug 30, 2020

Depending on what fuse it is sometimes they get hot and melt the terminals, you wanna wiggle that around double check

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Boogiessundance · Aug 30, 2020

jcollings said:
Here some links that you should review I'm sure lots of people will be charming in about your problem.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=20191&share_type=t&link_source=app
[/URL]

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ups ... cannot open these link

jcollings · Aug 30, 2020

If you're doing tap talk you might have to go to the main site to download. I have that problem also on tap talk.

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Boogiessundance · Aug 30, 2020

jcollings said:
If you're doing tap talk you might have to go to the main site to download. I have that problem also on tap talk.

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Ok , thank you

cucvrus · Aug 30, 2020

Let me tell you about the fuses in a CUCV. They may look good and still be bad. May I recommend that you clean the connections on all the fuse box connections. I fine sanding or a points file work. Blow that area out good and check all you grounds. The ground above the E Brake lever is key to getting a good cab interior ground. Also under the hood check all the fusible links. I think you may have a fusible link burnt out. Check over on the right behind the rear battery and make sure the links are intact and no melted. Once again a through inspection and testing with a test light is how I do it. I have a Fluke Multi meter but seldom use it. The test light will tell me what I need to know. Check these things and then check back. Another thing is get the batteries load tested for the correct amps. Batteries also need the correct amperage in addition to voltage. I hope I helped a bit. Report back. Thank you and Be Safe.

Boogiessundance · Aug 30, 2020

cucvrus said:
Let me tell you about the fuses in a CUCV. They may look good and still be bad. May I recommend that you clean the connections on all the fuse box connections. I fine sanding or a points file work. Blow that area out good and check all you grounds. The ground above the E Brake lever is key to getting a good cab interior ground. Also under the hood check all the fusible links. I think you may have a fusible link burnt out. Check over on the right behind the rear battery and make sure the links are intact and no melted. Once again a through inspection and testing with a test light is how I do it. I have a Fluke Multi meter but seldom use it. The test light will tell me what I need to know. Check these things and then check back. Another thing is get the batteries load tested for the correct amps. Batteries also need the correct amperage in addition to voltage. I hope I helped a bit. Report back. Thank you and Be Safe.

Thank you , CUCVRUS ! How can i check these fusible links ? There is no molten Plastic anywhere . The ground above the E- Brake is new , also the batteries

jcollings · Aug 30, 2020

You have to probe each side of the link to see if it is good . here's a pictures of what you're looking at. so from the below the black barrel to the other end (ring terminal)

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Boogiessundance · Aug 30, 2020

jcollings said:
You have to probe each side of the link to see if it is good . here's a pictures of what you're looking at. so from the below the black barrel to the other end (ring terminal)

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Hey , thanks for the photo now it´s clear to me

cucvrus · Aug 30, 2020

There is also a ground on the under hood engine harness that could be checked.

Over to the left of the vacuum pump is a ground wire that gets connected to the second intake manifold stud. Check that. Good Luck.

Boogiessundance · Aug 30, 2020

cucvrus said:
There is also a ground on the under hood engine harness that could be checked. View attachment 810591
Over to the left of the vacuum pump is a ground wire that gets connected to the second intake manifold stud. Check that. Good Luck.

Thank you ! this ground wire what you mean has recently been redone . I´ve just tested all of the fusible links - they´re all ok !

Boogiessundance · Aug 30, 2020

I`am really thinking about laying a bypass cable to the ignition switch .....

Boogiessundance · Sep 2, 2020

Has anyone ever opened the fuse box ? I am thinking of corrosion , on one side there is voltage in the fuse box but the fuse 15 ignition is dead ....

Boogiessundance · Sep 2, 2020

really that difficult this job ?

jcollings · Sep 2, 2020

If you want to remove main bulk head wirring harness.
One 10mm or 3/8 bolt in the center of the conector, that is on the engine bay side.
Two screws on the drivers side compartment side,
Also two locking tabs.
Should let you separate it with a good grasp or with a couple small prying tool being careful.
A bunch of nasty sticky grease inside. Good luck.
You have tried a continuity from inside to outside first i presume?

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Boogiessundance · Sep 2, 2020

jcollings said:
If you want to remove main bulk head wirring harness.
One 10mm or 3/8 bolt in the center of the conector, that is on the engine bay side.
Two screws on the drivers side compartment side,
Also two locking tabs.
Should let you separate it with a good grasp or with a couple small prying tool being careful.
A bunch of nasty sticky grease inside. Good luck.
You have tried a continuity from inside to outside first i presume?

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Thank you for advice ! What do you mean by your last sentence ?

jcollings · Sep 2, 2020

If you have a Volt meter on the ohm setting, and you touch both the leads together it will have a very low or 0 reading.
Now if you go to one side if you're wire Probe/Pierce the wire, Then to the other side and probe/ Pierce the wire, it should show you the Continuity/ resistance of the wire.
You can also set your voltmeter to audible or beep setting so you can hear if there's a connection.
Hope that helps.

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