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Not sure which tire to run on a 5-ton - 14-20 or 16-20?

dma251

Member
648
15
18
Location
Arlington, Washington
Does anyone have any opinions or pictures of m813's on super singles with 14-20 and 16-20? I can't really decide which way I want to go. I am gonna be putting them on the 10x20 combat wheels.

Are there any other mods needed besides just flipping the rear hubs?

Any negatives to running the big 16-20's? Any clearance issues?
 

G744

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It is usually a lot of work to get those newer tubeless wheels to seal up. Most trucks that run them in the service have CTIES on them so it is no big deal.

I had three that that just would not seal. Taking them apart is a lot more work than you might think, as the bead seats very snugly and a duckbill sledge will not get it loose.

That being said, I run them with radial tubes & flaps, no runflat inside. I also grind a bit of rubber off each side of the bead so it will slip on and off the wheel easily for repairs.

14.00's fit perfectly, 16.00's will fit as I have seen it done but I cannot speak to total clearance issues with them.

Also do not fall to the temptation to run them a little soft for a better ride, the sidewalls will give out in short order even tho they look totally inflated. 90 psi works fine.
dg
 

yeager1

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Location
Colorado
In reply to:
It is usually a lot of work to get those newer tubeless wheels to seal up
In the past I have used a gummy product that we called bead glue (I don't know the brand name) on tractors, jeeps and 4 wheelers and it will seal anything. It's a very gunny, thick product that never dries, just gets tacky on the surface and it will seal very large gaps. I had a tractor with about a 32" front tire that would go flat in about 2-3 hours, we put that stuff on and it never leaked again. On jeeps you could go down to 8 psi and I never lost a bead wheeling. It should seal singles with no problem.
The down side is that it is VERY hard to get the wheel off as it is literally glued on and some shops won't even touch the stuff, but since it doesn't really dry you can get it off with thinner. If you find a place that does tractor tires they will probably be familiar with it.
 

G744

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Been there. Done that. Bead glue came out still. O-rings new. Sealant on the ring flange. Follow the TM faithfully. I still maintain it is easier to convert them to tubes and go.

Just because it is original doesn't make it right. I know too many of the guys that design this stuff personally to have that much faith....

dg
 

derby

Member
819
10
18
Location
S.E. MI.
You might want to further investigate those 1600x20 tires.I have talked to several reliable sources that have told me the 1600x20 on a stock axle spread will only leave you about four inches between the two rear tires.just enough for a small rock ,stump or any other debri to get loged in there.I am looking in to the 1400x20 or 15.5 80 R 20 for my truck.
 

dma251

Member
648
15
18
Location
Arlington, Washington
Do you honestly think it would really make any difference if something were to be run through the gap there? It seems to me anything that could get up there would just roll around until it rolled off the edge or was spat out. You have one surface pulling in, one pushing out. I doubt anything of any size would go in there. I doubt even less it would do any harm.

look at these pics I found of trucks running these big bad-ass tires!

http://www.oshkoshequipment.com/products.cfm?pid=2&cat=1
 

derby

Member
819
10
18
Location
S.E. MI.
At $300 a tire I am not willing to risk shredding a tire on your doubts.but you are right they do look kool ,but there is a differance between looking kool and getting the job done.
 

M1075

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Location
Oklahoma City
I also think that 14R20 is the way to go on the 5 tons, unless you have a bridge truck. Axle spacing is 52" and tires are 52". Bridge truck axle spacing is 56".
 

Towman2277

New member
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Location
Saraland, Alabama
M1075 said:
I also think that 14R20 is the way to go on the 5 tons, unless you have a bridge truck. Axle spacing is 52" and tires are 52". Bridge truck axle spacing is 56".
M1075, what would you run on the "bridge trucks"??
Also, with the bigger 16-20's you come into problems with the tires coming into contact on most trucks with the bed and front fenders.....look at those Oshkosh photos again, there is hardly ANY room to flex up the suspension, and the slightest off-road driving will cause those tires to touch, and something's getting damaged!! They look good for the road....but not feasible if they can't be used off-road. Anyone else agree??
 

M1075

Active member
3,589
6
38
Location
Oklahoma City
With a bridge truck, I would consider 1600s only because the axle spacing is 56". There could be issues up front though.
 

timntrucks

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Ponchatoula LA
im into getting some bigger tires for my m816. i love the looks of the 1600s never heard of the 1500s. the 1400s arnt much bigger than the 1100s i have now. are you telling me the 1400s will fit the rims that i have now? any pics of the 1500s that you are talking about any help would be great
 

derby

Member
819
10
18
Location
S.E. MI.
timntrucks,14.00's should be mounted on at least 10" rims.you will also need the two piece combat rim or rim with same offset.14.00's are 49" tall, should be quite a bit bigger than 11.00's. I am going to purchace 15.5 80r 20's when i get them I will post a pic.
 

timntrucks

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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63
Location
Ponchatoula LA
where are you going for the set of 15.5s the 1100s are 44 in tall makes the wrecker look small with all the space left
 
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