Reaching out to determine difficulty to rebuild the np208. I saw there is a TM that covers this and it doesn’t seem too bad to do but wanted some opinions from anyone who has done it before, and whether any specialized tools were helpful. It looks like rock auto sells an overhaul kit and chain for a reasonable price.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
NP208 Rebuild
- Thread starter adf5565
- Start date
Skinny
Well-known member
- 2,130
- 488
- 83
- Location
- Portsmouth, NH
Like any chain case it's easy peezy. You could even pull it apart in halves out of the truck if you don't have a jack.
If you don't have a good bearing puller kit now would be a good time to get one. I think the front output roller bearing in the back half is tough sometimes to get out.
If you don't have a good bearing puller kit now would be a good time to get one. I think the front output roller bearing in the back half is tough sometimes to get out.
The front case on mine was cracked near the front output. I bought a used case off of Facebook and swapped everything over. Ive still got the old one apart and in my floor if you need a photo or something.
I think the best thing I did was buy a transmission jack that pivoted and tilted. It made it easier to get in and out.
It is pretty straight forward, just be careful if you change out seals not to crack any of the lips. When it is apart, be sure to check the planetary gearset for slop in the small gears. If you've managed to wear out a chain, you could also have worn out those also. I did not change out any bearings, but you would need at least a bearing splitter and something akin to a pilot bearing puller for the end bearing in the blind holes.
I think the best thing I did was buy a transmission jack that pivoted and tilted. It made it easier to get in and out.
It is pretty straight forward, just be careful if you change out seals not to crack any of the lips. When it is apart, be sure to check the planetary gearset for slop in the small gears. If you've managed to wear out a chain, you could also have worn out those also. I did not change out any bearings, but you would need at least a bearing splitter and something akin to a pilot bearing puller for the end bearing in the blind holes.
- 117
- 119
- 43
- Location
- Los Angeles/CA
I have never done a 208, but I have done a 203, couple 205s, and an sm465 trans. Like other posters have said, the harbor freight transmission jack is worth the money even if you only do it once.
The first 205 I did with a floor jack with some wood bolted to the top of it to make a platform, and it was sketchy enough I'll never do that again.
The first 205 I did with a floor jack with some wood bolted to the top of it to make a platform, and it was sketchy enough I'll never do that again.
Skinny
Well-known member
- 2,130
- 488
- 83
- Location
- Portsmouth, NH
I've pulled a 205 and 4L80 (seperately of course) with that garbage $100 jack. It's paid for itself. Sure I wouldn't buy one for commercial daily work but yanking drive lines out in a storage unit...it's boss.
For a tcase I use a 2x4 under the center of the case so the front output sits directly on the jack. Then strap it down right. It comes out perfectly level.
Like I said if you don't have a jack, you can split the case on the truck in a pinch. I have two herniated discs, I'm no hero.
For a tcase I use a 2x4 under the center of the case so the front output sits directly on the jack. Then strap it down right. It comes out perfectly level.
Like I said if you don't have a jack, you can split the case on the truck in a pinch. I have two herniated discs, I'm no hero.
Great, thanks for the advice! I have a standard transmission jack so I’ll start with that but if needed I can get a tilting one. I also have a bearing puller set. I don’t mind buying a few tools if needed with some of the money I’d save if I took it in for a shop to do.
Once I start the rebuild I’ll update either this thread or my main one to track progress.
Once I start the rebuild I’ll update either this thread or my main one to track progress.
Last edited:
I finally got around to pulling apart the t case. It needed new seals but I did the bearings, chain, and thrust washers while it was apart as well. I got the USA Standard Gear ztbk208 rebuild kit and ztchhv025 chain.
Overall it was fairly easy to do. I made sure to take alot of pics during disassembly which helped greatly, and I feel at times I could’ve used even more. The TM procedure helps, but I swear it was missing steps for assembly. I put the 120 individual roller bearings in and then realized I didn’t put the spacers underneath. Unless I’m blind I could not find the step where it says to put those back in. So I pulled those bearings out, put the spacers in and then restacked the bearings.
It helped putting a little grease against the main shaft when assembling/stacking the roller bearings as they stick pretty good then and don’t fall off. And during the disassembly process having a small magnet to pull them out helped minimize them falling all over the place.
Overall it was fairly easy to do. I made sure to take alot of pics during disassembly which helped greatly, and I feel at times I could’ve used even more. The TM procedure helps, but I swear it was missing steps for assembly. I put the 120 individual roller bearings in and then realized I didn’t put the spacers underneath. Unless I’m blind I could not find the step where it says to put those back in. So I pulled those bearings out, put the spacers in and then restacked the bearings.
It helped putting a little grease against the main shaft when assembling/stacking the roller bearings as they stick pretty good then and don’t fall off. And during the disassembly process having a small magnet to pull them out helped minimize them falling all over the place.
Attachments
rcamacho
Well-known member
- 772
- 855
- 93
- Location
- Bainbridge Island Wa
Nice job 
I rebuilt an np208C out of a Chevy Blazer a few years back. Very easy job at the time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I rebuilt an np208C out of a Chevy Blazer a few years back. Very easy job at the time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So yesterday went out in the garage and noticed a small puddle under the truck. Turns out the front output shaft seal on the transfer case is leaking again (it was leaking here before the rebuild). My question is, is the output flange shaft supposed to look like this? Or is it worn? This is one from eBay but mine looked similar.
I did clean up the shaft and put a new seal (and bearing) in during the rebuild so I’m not sure why it’s leaking again. I believe I can change this seal with the t-case installed so it’s not a huge time issue but I don’t like having to redo work I’ve already done. Any suggestions are appreciated.
I did clean up the shaft and put a new seal (and bearing) in during the rebuild so I’m not sure why it’s leaking again. I believe I can change this seal with the t-case installed so it’s not a huge time issue but I don’t like having to redo work I’ve already done. Any suggestions are appreciated.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,474
- 10,437
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
That looks a little rough. Check this out. Refreshing Gunny the thread. | Page 2 | SteelSoldiers
I posted a large picture of the output flange yoke of an M1008 NP208 C
I posted a large picture of the output flange yoke of an M1008 NP208 C
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,323
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
Can you feel it with a fingernail? If so, it will leak.
The picture you posted definitely looks better than mine. Yeah i can feel the grooves so I’m sure that’s why it chewed up the seal. Any ideas where I can find a new output flange? All the ones on eBay look to be the same condition as mine.
- 7,724
- 19,779
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.
In a real parts house - with an old guy behind the counter and no computer - you might find a seal that replaces yours with a "Wear Ring" in the box. The wear ring is a thing metal sleeve that covers up the grove in your flange. The seal will drive in normally and the rubber part of the seal is a little smaller than the original seal.
Thing is, there may be no such thing. But somebody who has "been around the block "a few times might be able to locate it if it exists.
- 1,836
- 987
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
- 7,724
- 19,779
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.
Yeah!!! That's the stuff.
@adf5565 this is the magic that you are looking for!
@Sharecropper , This is FANTASTIC and Thank You for already having the answer!
- 1,836
- 987
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
@Sharecropper , This is FANTASTIC and Thank You for already having the answer!
[/QUOTE]
That's why I make the big bucks.
[/QUOTE]
That's why I make the big bucks.
That is perfect Sharecropper, thanks a lot! I definitely agree with your post on being a poor setup, the dirt and crap just gets stuck in there and gets worn in with the seal and the shaft.
Any chance you remember the part number or method you used to determine which speedi sleeve to use? I’m not sure if the 241 and 208 use the same output flange so maybe I just have to pull it off and measure the diameter and order appropriately.
- 1,836
- 987
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
Yeah the NP208 takes a Speedi Sleeve #99187 from National. NAPA should have this, or can get it. It comes with a driving cup to install the sleeve onto the yoke shaft. When you go to install the sleeve on the shaft, make sure you don't drive it too far on the yoke that the rubber flange of the seal doesn't engage the sleeve after the yoke is reinstalled. You won't know this unless I told you. If you drive it all the way onto the yoke until it stops, the rubber flange of the new seal will miss the edge of the sleeve and the wear grooves will be exposed, thereby defeating the purpose of the sleeve. Drive it onto the yoke until the edge of the sleeve is just up on the edge of the yoke shaft. The last photo shows the edge of the sleeve just onto the yoke collar and the new seal slid on for the photo.
I actually ran a bead of Great Stuff gasket sealant on my yoke shaft to guarantee that the sleeve seals on the yoke. The yoke will only go onto the splined TC shaft so far, and if the sleeve is driven all the way onto the yoke the rubber flange will just barely catch the sleeve, which wasn't quite enough for my comfort.
Next time you go out in the mud, remember to wash the crud from the narrow gap between the TC and the yoke. Nobody ever does this and that is why the yoke shaft gets scored.
Hope this helps.
That’ll do the trick, I appreciate the help!
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,474
- 10,437
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
If your yoke is still chewed up and you want the one I showed you we can " Let's Make a Deal"