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OA 331

jrosbo

Member
172
5
18
Location
Vandalia Illinois
I have an OA 331 that i want to rebuild. I pulled it out of my M49 to swap with an engine I got from BFR. I want to rebuild this one so I can have a spare. The one I pulled had all the main caps busted and the bearings where toast. Looks like the oil pump failed. My question is, does anybody have main caps that they can part with? I have called around to see if I could get some and nobody has them. I went to Napa and like always they say "sorry, can't help you" cause nobody knows what kind of engine it is because they don't list REO in any of there books. Does anybody know what else these engines were used in so I can tell them.I would like to price the parts needed through them if possible. Any help would be great.
 

DDoyle

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,825
80
48
Location
West Tennessee
I MAY have caps...and the engines were used in Reo over the road trucks in the early 1950s. They were also license-built by Continental, who assigned it model number COA-331.

It'll be a couple weeks before I'm at the shop again and able to check on the caps.

Best,
David Doyle
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,650
144
63
Location
Eastern SD
I have a 331 powered bobbed deuce. I like it a lot because it is quiet and has reasonable power. The REO engines were around for about 20 years but I always get strange looks from the parts houses. You could look for an OH-200 which was a 400 cubic inches and 200 horsepower. Same external size so it would bolt right in. You'll probably get the best prices from a surplus house. I think that (early) rods are 1740CP, mains are 757M, and cam is 1114M. Full gasket set is FS3146.

I highly recommend that you convert from a bypass filter to full flow spin-on oil filter. It is very easy to do. There are three ports on the side of the block. Output of oil pump, input to main galley, and a hole which dumps into the pan. I made a plate which bolts in place of the original bypass filter adaper which has two 1/2" pipe thread ports. Get an aftermarket spin-on adaper for the PH8A filters (NOT chevy style), plumb it with -10 hose and you are done.

I also ditched the stock carb. A 320cfm holley 2bbl enconomaster will bolt up with an aftermarket carb adapter. The linkage works with minor changes. Great driveability. The paper filter is also much better than the oil bath.
 

rdixiemiller

Active member
1,760
3
38
Location
Olive Branch Mississipi
If the main caps are broken, the engine is probably not worth building. You will have to line bore the block when you change the caps, they are not a bolt on replacement. Your rods will probably have to be resized as well. OA 331's are not that uncommon, I have seen a few in junkyards over the last couple of years. Enough of the old gassers get chopped up for parts, you should be able to find one without too much trouble.
 

Crazyguyla

Active member
817
124
43
Location
Altus, OK
The parts are avalible thru NAPA, you just have to have a parts guy that's willing to do a little research. When I worked for a Chevy dealership, I had our parts guy call his contact at NAPA to find a rebuild gasket set. It was almost a week before NAPA got back with him.
 

jrosbo

Member
172
5
18
Location
Vandalia Illinois
331

I have another engine here that I got from BFR so thats not an issue. I also have a place where I work that will rebuild the engine for free if it turns into anything more then a shade tree project. They have machining capabilities also. I supply the parts and they supply the labor.There is also a place here that will line bore an engine and when I used to work for a tractor dealer here I don't remember it being real expensive when I would go and pickup the finished product. But one thing I know for sure is that to even have a chance of rebuilding this engine I need new main caps. I have some of the parts here and Memphis has the rest to finish this rebuild. From the sounds of things the OA331 might be on the path to extinction so thats another reason why I want to rebuild it and put it up for a spare. Cracyguyla, could you PM me the info to get in contact with your Napa guy so I could ask him where my Napa guy needs to look for this stuff. The help would be appreciated
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,650
144
63
Location
Eastern SD
Parts will be much cheaper from the surplus houses. There is a guy selling gasket sets on ebay for ~$25 but they are all dried out, broken, or so porous that they leak. Forget about getting one complete good set. They are, however, good for the manifold sets, head gasket, etc. The gasket set from NAPA is ~$225. This is directly out of NAPAs catalog:

intake and exhaust valve lock 216-5146
oem type intake valve seal 216-1010
perfect circle set (requires VST-20A14 tool) *VS-6
intake and exhaust valve guide 217-3895
intake valve seat 218-8753
exhaust valve seat 218-3707
cam gear 8-3600A
crank gear 8-3601A
matched gear set 8-3602SA
full gasket set FS3146
head set HS3146
manifold set (with exhaust heated intake) MS18469
manifold set (later model) MS12199
valve cover VS39741 (the one I got was too long)
head gasket 3146
oil pan OS30987
early rod bearings 1740CP
late rod bearings 3090CP
straight shell main set 757M
Cam set 1114M


If you are going to the trouble of overhauling, ditch the POS bypass filter and convert to full flow filter. Ford published a study in an SAE journal in the early fifties outlining the benefits of a full flow oil filter: 50% less crank wear, 66% less wrist pin wear, 19% less cylinder wear, 52% less ring wear. It is easy and can be done for <$100.
 

jrosbo

Member
172
5
18
Location
Vandalia Illinois
Thanks

Thanks for the list I am going to take it to napa and see if they can trace it backwards to the engine so I can price parts from them in the future.
 

oldradioseeker

New member
4
0
0
OA-331 project rebuild L2103 TRW Flat top pistons

About 20 years ago, I was really into running a Gas Reo M35 which has a heavy boom truck rig on it. Though I never finished the project, I found a TRW piston with a flat top which is number L2103 (I think L2103F for forged). It was for a 331 engine, perhaps a White?? Well it promised to give a higher compression ratio in the gas reo 331. The stock pistons are dished. The small end rod piston pin bushings had to be pressed out of the stock military rods, and the bushings that are in the TRW book for the L2103 pistons, inserted. They fit!! The L2103 pistons used a slightly smaller pin. As for balancing, Big question mark. The L2103 also uses the same 4 rings but they moved the two oil rings together over the top of the piston pin. Will it work? I don't know but will post a message someday. Also, thanks to the oil filter trick instructions folks have offered. Tip: I know where there are several rebuilt heat valves for under the carb. These are the spacer unit that you dial in the heat you want (carb heat) Please email. Also, The two local Army truck yards are and have scrapped dozens of Reo Gas parts trucks. SAD. China is getting into our old truck parts Big time. One has no Gas REO anything on the yard and the other is soon to join them. Anybody know a source for stock pistons rings sleeves?
 

RICE670

New member
139
1
0
Location
new york
Tip: I know where there are several rebuilt heat valves for under the carb. These are the spacer unit that you dial in the heat you want (carb heat) Please email.
I sent you a PM on the heat valve scott
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,650
144
63
Location
Eastern SD
I think that Sarafan had the best prices for piston/ sleeve kits (~$80). There was an LPG version of the OA331 which had ~8.0:1 compression. It'd be pretty hard to find by now.

I am working on replacing my OA331 with a rebuilt OH200 which is a later model redesigned and improved 400 cubic inch version. 200HP at 3400rpm and 365ft lb at 1200rpm. 4.25" bore and 4.7" stroke. IMHO better than a multi and much cheaper than a cummins.
 

Attachments

JDToumanian

Active member
1,655
14
38
Location
Phelan, CA
If you raise the compression on an otherwise stock OA331, you would likely no longer be able to burn regular gas without the engine pinging... And if you fill it with premium, you will not see a big improvement in power with the stock carburetor and restrictive intake and exhaust. Tinkering with these engines isn't worth the effort - they are well designed, and improving one part or system will merely expose the next weakest variable.

Jon
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,650
144
63
Location
Eastern SD
I think that you'd be fine if you raised the compression to 7.5 or 8:1. There was a later "OA331" with 7.5:1 compression known as the 6-170/ OH170. It had 170HP at 3400rpm and 297ft lb at 1600rpm.
 

oldradioseeker

New member
4
0
0
Quick OA-331 praises. 30+ years ago a logger stopped by our place of business and offerred us a Gas 2 1/2 ton Reo truck and told us where it was and to go get it. It had been the target of High powered rifle practice in a logging woods. The engine name plate still has a bullet hole in it. The truck's doors had been totally shot up. I can't remember where other bullet holes were. He said he'd return to get some compensation for the truck, but never did. I salvaged the engine (doing nothing to it nor its air compressor) way back then and it survives to this day (in condition as obtained) in my deuce boom truck that was built about 25 years ago. That boom truck has sat the past 7 years in a swampy area. At the time I had no where else to keep it. The truck has become covered with vines so numerous that you could not see through them. There was a small tree growing between two wheel sets. This past Saturday, I cleaned the carb (which was mostly to clear the dirt wasp nests out) and cleaned the points, provided fresh fuel in a plastic can, and she runs again. The truck has the original ignition and wiring including the lever ignition switch and all original gauges except the temp, which came to a stop on 180 degrees. NO top on the cab for many many years either. The gauges still work. I am salvaging a Gas Reo which was completely submerged for several days in Hurricane Floyd's aftermath 8 years ago and it sat undisturbed in a salvage yard where it was flooded. Recently too, I removed its valve cover. All of its rocker arms, pushrods, springs are not rusted. I believe except for stuck pistons, that engine is ok. Still another OA-331 in my original boom truck cab which has been the victim of me, and two angry large fork truck drivers, one of which rammed the block, broke both the fuel pump and distributor off, and busted the block's oil pan flange, may live on too. The cab and front chassis and engine has been upside down with a board over its exhaust manifold opening for a dozen years. Again recently, I removed four of its plugs and am pretty sure it isn't stuck. Everything looks great under its valve cover. I am saving what is left to live another day. We will fix the busted out cast iron piece which is still attached to the oil pan. I doubt I will have to do anything further to that block and head but attach fresh periperals, and fire it up. (The small head freeze plugs may need replacement) These engines are meeting their end in srapping in Military truck yards. It is all dollars and cents except for those who know what a wonder this engine is. Carlton Carver
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,254
1,761
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
I agree, these engines are great stock. I recently got mine running for the first time since somebody else gave up on it in 1981. I haven't had the truck over 25 mph yet, so I can't comment on anything but off road grunt right now.

Thanks for the info on parts and later versions. I will keep my eyes open.
 

silverbullet72tnt

New member
59
0
0
Location
Northern NH
Hate to bring this back from the dead, but do any of the part numbers listed on first page still work for you guys? been pluggin em into pro-link all day and nothing comes up
 
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