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Obligatory "It's Here!" Thread

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Location
Aurora, CO
A big Thanks to Bikeman, who volunteered to help with the pickup/loading at the infamous AAA outside of Bragg. I really, really appreciate it.

Truck finally showed up late yesterday afternoon. It fired right up and the motor runs solid. It needs some trans fluid and probably some trans work. A lot of cleaning and cosmetic work ahead as well.
20150922_150128[1].jpg
 
85
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Location
Aurora, CO
What might the part number be for the 2 instrument panel bulbs? My panel was full of water, and the bulbs practically disintegrated. They don't really look like a bulb, possibly LED?

Thanks
 

bikeman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,894
501
113
Location
Ft. Bragg, NC
I was going to text you if I didn't hear from you soon about getting it!

This truck is.... rough. I swear, they drove this thing off the drop zone to DRMO. There's still remnants of cardboard and 100mph tape where the only reason to have it would be heavy drop rigging. you've got a project ahead of you for sure! Glad she started right back up!
 
85
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Location
Aurora, CO
Thanks.
Follow up question. Should I attempt disassembly of the gauges to clean them up and get moisture out, or just replace the gauges?

Rough is certainly one word you could use. A good power wash has done wonders. The mirrors packed under the seat didn't make it, all the glass was busted out. The other seat had an antenna part (?) packed up in it. Looks like a relay, maybe a booster? Haven't looked up the nsn yet.

It does have 2 brand new batteries, brand new air cleaner and brand new oil filter, like it was recently serviced. The trans drain plug was finger tight and leaked what fluid was left out on the trip from NC. The pan bolts weren't exactly tight either, so those were tightened. If they drip I'll be redoing that soon.

All the lights run, minus the missing headlights. The plastic housings for the dash lights were literally full off water. All the gauges are full too. Can barely read them
 

bikeman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,894
501
113
Location
Ft. Bragg, NC
I'd replace the gauges, easier that way since you don't know what the water got into.

I was wondering what was under the seat. Now I know. and Yeah, I imagine a good power wash helped a ton, probably took some of that flaking paint off too. I saw a bunch of misc screws and stuff laying around. and peeled a bit of the CARC off the tail lights trying to figure out if they were busted or just peeling. Antenna part is probably the base unit. Truck belonged to Brigade S-3 I think? was that laminated piece of paper still in the passenger foot well? no doubt it had comms in it. the reinforcement plates above the rear wheel well were interesting too. Don't know what they were for.
 
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Location
Aurora, CO
And another question.
I'm trying to get my rear seat frames set up for the rear seats. I'm not sure if I'm missing parts or going about it all wrong.
When the frame is slid down, there is no where to secure it. The holes in the seat frame line up with nothing on the body.

I downloaded the 9-2320-280-10 TM and can't see much about the rear seat install.

Does anyone have a picture of the rear seat frames installed?
 
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bikeman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,894
501
113
Location
Ft. Bragg, NC
you're missing the seat bases, unless they were somewhere else. I do not recall if the bases have something for the lid/back to hook into. Actually, now that I think about it, I can't remember if you had the "frame"/box for the seat bottom to rest on or not...
 
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Aurora, CO
I do not have the seat bases, but the box/frames are there and still have the latches as well.
I'm cruising some online auction sites looking for the bases.

I found a website with all the TMs and diagrams and found the rear seat replacement diagram.
I think my issue was trying to line up the locking pins with the incorrect holes in the seat frame. That diagram helped clear it up.
 
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85
2
8
Location
Aurora, CO
Found them. Thanks.

Now I just need to find the nut zert for the B Pillar that the soft top rail attaches to. They don't look like normal zerts, they're not threaded. Just have 4 tabs in them? Anyone used a standard 1/4" zert? Are there even OEM replacements available?
 
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