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oil change

dmetalmiki

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oil is prssured thro the rocker shaft..and lubes "tappets"etc..varies from engine to engine..mine has oil a plenty milling about in that region..But will run with cover off little splash over. (i'd be quite happy with more!)
 

dmetalmiki

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I used 2 B all of an edgy waiting 4 oil prssure climb ! NO MORE! cut down the oil filters to 2" yep! 2"..small element in those, and WHAM! insta oil presh !. (oh..and 120lb SOLID line gauges on both my M35/M54/ )..NOW im both sure AND happy!.........converting my M45 same ..next project.
 

11ACR-LT

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Which TM advises to pre crank, mine doesn't, it does make sense but usually excessive cranking is harder on bearings. My 72 M35A2C takes about 12 to 14 sec to get pressure, always makes me nervous.

Curt
 

ida34

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Dexter, MI
The original question was talking about changing the oil. I would do check for hydrolock but I only crank until I see oil pressure after an oil and filter change. My oil pressure gage sticks on the deuce all the time so I have to do the standard fix for gages in the movies. I just tap it to get it to move. If I don't do this it will jump up to 60 after about 10 seconds or so. Remember that we are dealing with electric gages instead of mechanical. With my gage it sticks only a little. When it sees 60 lbs for a few seconds the magnetics of the gage over come the sticking. This is why I love mechanical gages. You can always depend on it. During a parade one time I about choked when I looked down to see the oil pressure at 0. This was one of the only times it stuck for more than a few seconds. I cycled the power switch then tapped the gage and the pressure came back.
 

rdixiemiller

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dmetalmiki said:
I used 2 B all of an edgy waiting 4 oil prssure climb ! NO MORE! cut down the oil filters to 2" yep! 2"..small element in those, and WHAM! insta oil presh !. (oh..and 120lb SOLID line gauges on both my M35/M54/ )..NOW im both sure AND happy!.........converting my M45 same ..next project.
Did you shorten the housing and the bolt to use the shorter filters?
 

DDoyle

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11ACR-LT said:
Which TM advises to pre crank,
All the Multfuel ones except the 361 manual - at least all of them that I've ever seen....this is not referring specifically to after an oil change, but rather, any time the truck is started.

Page 4-35 of TM 9-2320-209-10-1, as an example.

HTH,
David
 

CUCVFAN

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This thread reminded me of the first time I changed the oil in a deuce. I had a 5 gallon bucket under the front of the oil pan and the bucket had a lid with a 2" hole in it, in which I had neatly balanced a funnel with about a 1/2" opening at the bottom. I slid the bucket under the plug and unscrewed it. As the plug loosened and came out, I pulled it to the side and looked back at the draining oil....That oil was coming out in a stream about 3/4" diameter and I said "Oh S*@$". I thought I could plug it temporarily with my thumb until I could get the funnel off the bucket. Wrong... I was too slow. The funnel filled to the brim in a few seconds and tipped over and dumped oil all over the lid and onto the floor. Luckily, I had posistioned the hole in the bucket lid directly under the drain plug, so that fat stream of oil proceeded to flow, unobstructed, into the bucket. The oil filled that bucket TO THE RIM. Fortunately, I had very little cleanup from what could have been an Exxon Valdez situation on my garage floor! Man, I still don't know what I was thinking... :cookoo: But I laugh everytime I think about that experience...
 

dmetalmiki

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regarding shortning housing...parted e'm off with an angle grinder,then "faced em" on a flat plate with grind paste! bolts cut down and re welded with threaded portion.
 

dmetalmiki

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and IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE SHOTS of modification look in PHOTO GALLERY "deks collection" thats on My M54A2 ..the M45 AND M35A2 are same also...OILpresure gauges on ALL my trucks now "solid" line capillery type.
 

rmgill

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Decatur, Ga
Re that PS magazine article. When did the starter button move from left of the steering wheel to the right lower of the steering wheel?
 

houdel

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Chase, MI
I hate dry starts. 12-15 seconds with no oil pressure to the engine bearings or turbo does not sound good, although after 57 years of experience, it doesn't seem like much of a problem, but Uncle Sam has a lot more spare engines than I do. An anti drain back valve on the filters would be nice, but from all the pics in the TMs I don't know if it would be possible. I suppose some sort of oil pre-charger would solve the problem, I just haven't figured out how to make one work yet.
 

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus

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This is such a great site I am learning so much about the deuce that I love. Mine took 17 seconds to come up with ambiant air temp of 30 degrees F. I don't think that is too long especially since I treat my oil with lucas oil treatment and the remaining surface tension film should last 17 seconds. The truck starts within a second of pushing the start button and runs with more noise from the spedometer than the engine.
 

No.2Diesel

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I justed wanted to add to the existing results posted regarding oil pressure and how long it takes before the needle goes up. I haven't used my deuce for a week. Today I went home at lunch to hitch up my dump trailer so I thought it would be a good opputrunity to see how fast oil pressure builds. Current temp is...33°F with a windchill of 29°F. Cranked it over for about 5 seconds with the Engine Stop handle pulled out. Then pumped the pedal twice, pushed the engine stop handle back in and cranked while holding the flame heater switch on. It took a good 6 seconds of cranking before the engine lit. I counted 3.5 seconds before the needle shot up.

Update on block heaters... I went to my truck parts place and they have em listed as 478ci Hercules. Is this correct? I will order them soon and post the Part #
 
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