Oil Cooler line leak...

[KiefOlsen92]

How do I fix this? the oil line is leakin right before it meets that metal fitting... what are the steps to fixing this?
Thanks

 

[patracy]

Replace the hose. Fortunately those hoses are the only oil cooler parts that are available for purchase. (The solid lines accross the radiator aren't)

 

[KiefOlsen92]

how does the line attach to those metal fittings and which one would it be Dorman 625-154 or 625-155?

 

[patracy]

They're threaded onto the block. I can't say which one it would be. But honestly, if one is leaking, odds are, the other will leak soon afterwards...

 

[KiefOlsen92]

all right cool thanks.. I might just bring in it to my mechanic... cuz i cleaned all the grease off them and didnt see any holes so maybe its not seated in the metal fittings right. Also I wrapped it with eletrical tape for the time being.
thanks

 

[patracy]

The fittings aren't easily visible from up top, and barely visible from under the truck. It's literally on the bottom corner of the engine block.

 

[KiefOlsen92]

what would you call that rippled metal fitting is that the hose attaches to in the yellow box?

 

[Warthog]

That is the rippled giga-watt fusion connector. It is connected to the blinker fluid resevoir.

The hoses are pre-made. There is a barbed fitting that the hose slides onto then they crimp the fitting. Over the years the aluminum clamp flexes and eventually loosens and the hose starts leaking. Only easy fix is replacement.

 

[wilogger]

When I replaced mine Carquest couldn't order it, they sent me to the Chevy dealer, they ordered it & it cost big bucks, I can make a 1 inch 4 wire hydraulic hose on my gates crimper, for what they charged me for those puney cooler hoses. Next time i'll replace with a solid hydraulic hose.

 

[patracy]

When I replaced mine Carquest couldn't order it, they sent me to the Chevy dealer, they ordered it & it cost big bucks, I can make a 1 inch 4 wire hydraulic hose on my gates crimper, for what they charged me for those puney cooler hoses. Next time i'll replace with a solid hydraulic hose.

How do you plan on dealing with the custom threads GM uses? They're not a standard thread that a shop can get. (I've been down this road)

 

[wilogger]

Cut the end off and braze it on a fitting I can crimp.

 

[patracy]

Cut the end off and braze it on a fitting I can crimp.

Best of luck with that. You're going to create another leak point. I've had several hoses "fixed" like that in the past. It's always bitten me in the end. (Have one doing it now) Plus by the time you've done all the work, you could buy a replacement hose...

 

[Twicepipes]

Advance Auto Parts part #'s Dorman 625-154 and 625-155
They are not as heavy as the originals but they will work.
You will need one each as they have different bends on the filter end.
Just tell them you have an '86 K20 truck with a J code 6.2

eta: It's a good idea to take some old pieces of heater hose, split it down the center and wrap it
around the cooler lines where they may contact the inner fenders to protect them from wear.

 

[patracy]

BTW, both hoses shipped to my door from rock auto are only $57.

 

[doghead]

There are several threads that cover this thoroughly.

Try a search for the Dorman numbers.

 

[wilogger]

Ya maybe your right, about brazing it, it is thin stuff, i do braze or weld hydraulic fittings often with no prob but they are much heavier and easier. I just hate paying high prices for little things like that, although $57 for both hoses is way less than I payed from GM.

 

[patracy]

Ya maybe your right, about brazing it, it is thin stuff, i do braze or weld hydraulic fittings often with no prob but they are much heavier and easier. I just hate paying high prices for little things like that, although $57 for both hoses is way less than I payed from GM.

When you remove the hoses you'll see just how thin and brittle they are. I just was voicing my experience with stuff like that. It always has cost me more in the long run.

I also understand about the cost. My wallet is still hurting from the timing belt job I did on my wife's liberty CRD. ($660 in a timing belt, two idlers, a tensioner, water pump, thermostat, and gaskets!) I ended up doing it myself because it would double the cost due to labor. Unfortunately there was no reputable aftermarket parts in that case.

 

[usmcpatriot]

Napa has it as a Dorman number as the one up top, two different numbers, top and bottom. Go new, and have them wrapped in rubber tubing , they vibrate on the steering column, and wear.

 

[jatonka]

I just ordered one of the oil cooler pipes that runs across the radiator, from Chevy . Used the part number from a 1985 GM CUCV manual and it was still a good number. Cost $38 plus sales tax, I was satisfied with that. I replaced the 2 oil cooler flexible lines with Napa parts last year, what a job getting them out and back in!!!!!! JT

 

[usmcpatriot]

My old ones where leaking were they come close together, before they fit into the engine. The Motorpool cut the old top line with rubber tubing and clamps. That is were I wrapped both lines in rubber tubing and clamped snug. No metal to metal wear.