Oil spraying out exhaust

[martinv]

The turbo came out without much problem. Just needed about 16" of leverage for the exhaust bolts.
It looks like I found a used turbo i'm likely purchasing now, but still wan't to investigate and possibly repair the one I have.
The harder part to disassemble is getting the cartridge assembly out of the exhaust side:
Yellow arrow shows the rusted seam. Red arrow is a ledge that circles the unit where I tried hammering (regular, then impact) with a chisel hoping the vibration would break down the rust. No luck so far. Seam is soaking in WD40 now.


Compressor wheel doesn't look so good:

 

[martinv]

UPDATE:

This is the short version I think I had the turbo in and out at least 5 times.

1. Found a used type D turbo to replace my type D.
2. Installed it.
3. Test 1: Started engine and oil leaking all over turbo.
4. Shut down with about a minute after realizing the oi
5. Removed turbo again to investigate.
6. Discovered the oil return in the turbo was blocked. The turbo came with plugs to keep dirt/dust out and I forgot to remove the oil return plug! I bolted the assembly together from above, not seeing the plug was still in. With no where to go, the oil is forced past both turbo seals. This time oil also went into the intake manifold.
7. Cleaned up mess, re-installed turbo. Left exhaust side disconnected from exhaust piping so I could watch for oil in case new (used) turbo was leaky
8. Test 2: Started engine. Found oil coming out exhaust side. Something like 1 drip every 8 seconds and seemed to be slowing.
9. Wasn't sure if this was really a leak or residual oil from "Test 1".
10. Removed turbo.
11. Discovered oil in exhaust manifold. Concerned about possible engine issue wondering how oil could get there. Suspect it was oil that was sucked into the intake from "Test 1" and made it all the way to the exhaust port. Not exactly sure what the path is. Did it go into the intake valves, not burn with the fuel, then exit the exhaust valve to exhaust manifold?
12. Ordered a turbo rebuild kit. Took a little risk but it turns out the ebay "3LM" kit had the right parts for the 3LM-39. Oil seals (rings), bearing, plates, o-ring..
13. After installing the kit parts, found the shaft play didn't improve. Even before installing I researched some and found some info that it is even more likely the shaft itself wears. The shaft is part of the exhaust turbine. Due to balancing issues, you should not just replace that part without having it balanced..
14. To gain more confidence that the engine is OK, I completed a "Relative Compression Test" Looked OK. Details here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?189773-Relative-compression-test
15. Re-installed turbo
16. Test 3: Started engine. No oil out exhaust pipe at idle.
17. Decided to to test drive. During start of drive a little oil sprayed on passenger window and exhaust looked a little blue and excessive.
18. Kept driving and exhaust became what I think is normal. Almost nothing visible unless going up hill or accelerating. Drove on the highway around 50 MPH for a about 10 min. Stopped, inspected. Drove back to starting point. Inspected again. Looks OK.

Summary:
The residual oil made it difficult to know if the fix was good. I also had the oil+water milk shake coming out the exhaust at one point. After a panic, I realized this was water, rain and some degreaser I put in the pipe to try to clean up the mess.
The shaft play on the replacement turbo seems more that I would like. I'm looking into options for a new CHRA or entire new or fully rebuilt turbo which includes a new exhaust turbine/shaft.

Next step is a 40 mile test drive to get it back home

 

[WillWagner]

You should change the air filter due to all the damage to the compressor wheel. All those little pieces parts actually will bounce around in the intake pipe, find their way back into the filter and wedge themselves in the filter media. They Will come out again. If that happens, you will destroy another compressor wheel.

 

[obijohn]

I'm not an expert on turbos or engines, but I've rarely heard of a turbo injesting something hard like a nut and shredding the impellor and NOT damaging the engine. If it didn't, you are very lucky.

 

[martinv]

The nut did not get ingested. Luckily the blade spacing prevented that. It just rattled around and wore away the blades.

 

[WillWagner]

The little sawdust pieces did go into the engine, not good for it, but seen it alot and no issues came of it.

 

[davidb56]

most likely metal particles that have not made it through the intake/cylinders and out the exhaust, are now coated on the compression rings. A oil analysis would be in order before changing it.

 

[frank8003]

Worry Worry
Just change the oil and filters, 5 gallons and bucks
Enjoy the truck
change the crankcase oil
DO NOT ever put diesel crankcase oil into the fuel for you engine.
Well
You can
She will burn it.
But then You get to replace the hydraulic head
and there isn't anymore
You decide.