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Okay I got the Crown Nut off now what does it take to get the Lunette out? (photos)

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
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I just finished doing this very procedure to an M101A1. Nut had to be taken off with 3/4 inch electric impact wrench. Took about 5 minutes of pull the trigger and hold on before it came off. Next got big arsed pry bar and put it into the lunette. Note, the lunette cannot turn, it's sitting on a block to prevent that from happening. There is enough space though to get a little movement. Lifted one side, rotated to the other side, lifted and kept repeating until the tinniest movement was felt. Got out the BFH and applied 200lbs or so elbow grease and whacked the tar out of the threaded side. There is a feature on my lunette where you can beat the tar out of it and it won't reach the threads. After 4-5 solid whacks, it worked itself free. One more thing. There's a bolt on the top of my trailer hitch that appears to be somekind of lock for the lunette, got to remove that or the lunette aint coming out. Hope this helps. Not sure how relevant though with your M105.
 
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KsM715

Well-known member
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St George Ks
Forget all the prying and heating. (mapp gas will not get hot enough anyways, you need a proper torch) . Get a BIG sledge. Not a 2 pound hand sledge, a BIG sledge, the kind you would hit a wedge to split oak with. Spray the lunett with penatrating oil, and hit the end of the lunette like yourtrying to drive the trailer backward with the hammer. Hit it like you mean it, I mean as hard as you can (dont worry, you will not damage it.) several times andseveral timeson either side, and on top,it will break free.
 

silverstate55

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HOLY COW I almost wet my pants, I laughed so hard at some of these responses!

I have 5 M105 trailers, and I've removed the lunette on each & every one of them using a simple method described by another member in this forum.

Put the nut back on, and place some metal spacers between the nut and the back of the steel well (just behind the nut). Then, tighten that nut against these metal spacers as tight as you can, to apply pressure FORWARD against the lunette.

Then, strike the lunette just behind the ring portion with a BFH (I have a 12-lb sledge that works with only a few strikes), but make sure your swing motion is "encouraging" the lunette forward.

Tighten that nut against the metal spacers again to keep pressure up against the lunette, and strike with the sledge hammer several more times. Repeat this process until it pops free.

One of my M105s needed some serious BFH strikes & I had to go through this process about 3 times before it popped free. But towing it & even pulling the lunette with my truck while the trailer was secured didn't pull it free....but this method DID get it out with NO DAMAGE.

Make sure all force applied against the lunette is in a forward motion, to get it to pop free.

Worked on all 5 of my M105 trailers.
 

maplehillfrm

Member
112
0
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Location
binghamton ny
I have to agree with Ks.jeff,, I have always had luck by hitting them as if installing the ,, a couple of hard blows seems to loosen the rust ,, than alternate blows on either side as if taking it off,,, you may have to hit it as if putting it on a time or two,, but that will get it off, ,, hope that helps,, also if you wre just taking the lunnette off to flip it,, you dont have to take the nut all the way off,, Good luck, pat
 

91W350

Well-known member
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Salina, Kansas
I tried to remove one, tried all the above tricks, even tied it to a tree and and gave it a healthy pull with a crawler. We successfully pulled the rear cross member out and bent the frame rails, the ring is still securely attached. It would have made a great video....
 

Nick

Member
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3
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Location
Near Daytona Beach, Florida
Got the biggest pry bar I could find about 8' long 2x2 steel bar

It still wont budge, even with my 200# hanging off the end:(

Haven't tried heast yet because I'm in Phoenix AZ area and the though its only
9am the trailer is hot as is the pry bar.
Wellllllll.........Any update?? Still fighting it or have ya got it out?????
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
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HOLY COW I almost wet my pants, I laughed so hard at some of these responses!

I have 5 M105 trailers, and I've removed the lunette on each & every one of them using a simple method described by another member in this forum.

Put the nut back on, and place some metal spacers between the nut and the back of the steel well (just behind the nut). Then, tighten that nut against these metal spacers as tight as you can, to apply pressure FORWARD against the lunette.

Then, strike the lunette just behind the ring portion with a BFH (I have a 12-lb sledge that works with only a few strikes), but make sure your swing motion is "encouraging" the lunette forward.

Tighten that nut against the metal spacers again to keep pressure up against the lunette, and strike with the sledge hammer several more times. Repeat this process until it pops free.

One of my M105s needed some serious BFH strikes & I had to go through this process about 3 times before it popped free. But towing it & even pulling the lunette with my truck while the trailer was secured didn't pull it free....but this method DID get it out with NO DAMAGE.

Make sure all force applied against the lunette is in a forward motion, to get it to pop free.

Worked on all 5 of my M105 trailers.
Follow these directions for sure. Don't get too happy backing the hut off, it can bend the welded piece behind it. The idea is to keep tension on it as you strike the lunette. Twisting and pulling on a taper fit pin that big is wasting energy. As long as that nut is keeping tension on that lunette shaft, beating the snot out of it with a sledge will eventually crack it loose. I've swung at that lunette in every angle I could in past times. To date the only one that defeated me was the one at Aberdeen Clinto posted. Haha, what a fun time that was.

Oh, one more area to consider. If you can, park the trailer on concrete. The ground can absorb some of the impact shock from the sledge hammer.
 

azjimbob

New member
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scottsals/az
Haven't had the chance to fight with it again. but will post some photos tonight of the offending lunette (I'm concerned that it might be welded in place, and would like you all to take a look at let some close up photos me know what you think.

Thanks

Jim

PS I got out the 16# BFH just in case you confirm its not welded

(I don't like to lose)
 

212sparky

Well-known member
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Monroe/ Ohio
I tried to remove one, tried all the above tricks, even tied it to a tree and and gave it a healthy pull with a crawler. We successfully pulled the rear cross member out and bent the frame rails, the ring is still securely attached. It would have made a great video....

nopics
 

KsM715

Well-known member
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Location
St George Ks
Incase your wondering there is a "flat" welded to the front of the trailer to keep the lunette from spinning, but but it is not welded to the lunette. It may be that its just covered with paint and looks like the lunette it welded.
 

azjimbob

New member
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Location
scottsals/az
Okay here's a couple of photos of the lunette. It doesn't look like its welded
it just looks like I'll need the 16# sledge (right):shock:

I'll pick up some spaces and flat washer and attack it this weekend.

Thanks for all you advise and I'll keep all posted with photos when (not If) I
get in out and flipped:)

Jim
 

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steelandcanvas

Well-known member
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Southwestern Idaho
After you get the lunette out, clean up all contact surfaces and threads with a wire bush and coat liberally with Never-Seize before re-installing. It will pop right out next time you want to remove it.
 

indy4x4fab

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indy, indiana
Me and jeremyk5 have found that two 10lb slug hammers swinging in time and both hitting the back of the lunette will knock it out every time, but some lunette do need more hitting then others. Then do what steelandcanvas says to do.
 

harleyhouse

Well-known member
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Oakmont, Pennsylvania
Looks like the lunette has some space between the mount, spray more oil in the crack and tip the trailer back. Let it sit for a day then shock it loose with a hammer.
 
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