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optima batteries

479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
2 group 31 Kirkland (Costco) marine batteries. I use one on my trailer too to run the 15,000 lb winch. They aren't the absolute best starting batteries but they crank the 12 liter Detroit with ease even after sitting a few months. Also I like them because they have 5/16 studs that work with my cables in both applications.

I have Kirkland Group 65 batteries in my 1009 (900 CCA w/ 150 reserve capacity, plus a good warranty and good customer service; Costco stands behind their stuff).
I had to make different battery hold-downs and change the terminal connectors.
But the batteries were around $80 each, the terminals and hold-down hardware cost another $15. Which is much better than $130-150+ per battery for most other "stock CUCV-size batteries."

Kirkland has group 78 batteries too (Civi Blazer size), which are slightly cheaper (by $4-5/ea), but they also have slightly lower CCA and reserve capacity.

I've been pleased with my batteries so far.
 

Bairrfhionn82

New member
47
0
0
Location
New Brighton,MN
I have Advanced Auto Grp 31 farm & truck batteries $100 a piece 1185 cranking amps and 950 cca with 195 min reserve been in the Beast for over a year starts every time. I had the red top optima in my unmarked impala I used to leave the computer on for a couple of hrs at a time with the engine off never failed to start in the Florida heat.My Saab has it now and it starts everytime here in MN.:)
 

BIG_RED

New member
385
0
0
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Optima's used to be better but now they're overpriced for what you get IMHO. My CUCV came with a pair of 1100 CCA "Quickstart" batteries. They're conventional lead-acid, 3 years old now still work fine. Have never been fully drained - that kills "starting" batteries. At work we carried Interstate batteries. They stood behind their product if they came back. Most came back due to charging system problems on vehicles, not the batteries. I'd buy them (cause I got them at wholesale pricing). Now I'd look at costco. Decent product, well backed, and cheap.
 

trooper632

Member
533
3
18
Location
Utopia, TX
i have used several different types, but ended up staying with wal-mart batteries, best price and full 3 year no hassle return, and wal-mart is all over the country return to any wal-mart. I have had to replace mabey 2 wal-mart batteries near the end of the 3 year warranty, and I have bought probibly 20 from them.
 

forest522

Member
307
3
18
Location
Bernalillo, New Mexico
I've used a few Optima batteries - one was in a Toyota tacoma - blue top. Was always reliable for startup. The others were for solar charged trailer set ups and they are four years old and still holding on.

Thought about putting some in the M1009 but Batteries Plus made me a deal on two Duracell batteries that I couldn't pass up. They have been great! Had a trade in 110 ah battery from another project and walked out of there with two new Duracells for under $150. Never looked back....
 

Sarge29

Member
169
1
18
Location
Saluda, SC
I have 4 red tops that have failed. 3 of them will take a charge but none will hold a charge. Now I cant even get them warranted because I threw away or lost the sales receipt. I guess they will go to the scrap man next time I go with a load of scrap
 

robert c neth

Banned
233
1
0
Location
girard pa
on ih8mud website they have the same complaints about optimas,basicly most people there stopped buying them,according to the site the problems started when they moved the plant to mexico.some complaints on pirate as well.
 

drbombe

New member
11
0
0
Location
Elk River
I had one in my toyota pick up, it was toast in about 2 years. I would bother again to be honest. I did make a get out of jail machine, a 5 hp motor connected via belt to a 90 amp alternator, I fire it up and I can jump start any machine I own...mounted it to a small wagon, it has a big deep cycle battery, I run out side lights on the fish house and all my 12 volt stuff inside.
 

Beerslayer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,054
55
48
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
That ^^ is a very cool idea. Would work great around farm or fleet.

My deuce came with two red top Optimas from DRMO about 3 years ago and no problems to report. Maybe they are the older ones that aren't made in Mexico. I do keep a float charger on them most of the time.

When they do eventually go I will probably buy Deka batteries from Batteries Plus. Unless I am stuck somewhere, then I will get whatever is handy.
 

M1008driver

New member
522
3
0
Location
Great Falls, Montana
I just replaced the Optima RED34 in my Ford I bought in March 2000. It was still good and getting weak during the recent severe cold we had.

The battery shop said I got my monies worth. They did say if they get discharged they must be recharged in a special way. I have not had any of the problems mentioned and use Optima in every vehicle I own and my 5th wheel. Yellow 31's in my CUCV and Blue top deep cycle in my RV.

Tech Tips – Powered by OPTIMA Batteries®

Tech Tip #3 – Don't Throw Away Your "Dead" AGM Battery: Three Tips on Resuscitating a Deeply Discharged AGM Battery

Like a ghost story, sometimes the seemingly dead really aren't dead at all. The same may be true for your over-discharged AGM battery.
In time, AGM batteries, including OPTIMA batteries, may fail. Failures are typically caused when a starting battery is used in a cycling application, in which a deep cycle battery is the better choice.
Okay, so now you have a seemingly bad AGM battery, you attach it to your charger and…CLICK. The charger won't even charge it! "It must be a bad battery!" you exclaim. Or is it? In many cases, OPTIMA batteries that are assumed to be bad may actually be perfectly fine, just deeply discharged.
The great thing about AGM batteries, including OPTIMA Red Top® and Yellow Top® batteries, is that they have incredibly low internal resistance. This allows very high amperage output and for the battery to accept a charge very quickly.
An AGM battery, with its low internal resistance, may stump car guys because sometimes it doesn't work like a traditional flooded lead acid battery.
Here's the problem: most battery chargers have built-in safety features. A traditional battery that's at 10.5 volts or less is seen as defective, having either a short, a bad cell or some other defect. The charger "knows better" than to charge a defective battery because the results could be unsafe. But the fact is the AGM battery is just fine; it has simply slipped below the minimum voltage threshold of the charger and the charger doesn't know what to do with the battery.
Here are three options for bringing that fine AGM battery back to life. So grab your jumper cables and charger and…CLEAR!
Recovery Option #1: The Best Solution – AGM-Specific Chargers
The best method for recharging a deeply discharged AGM battery is to purchase a modern charger that has kept up with battery technology. Many chargers now have AGM-specific settings and de-sulfation steps that help recondition and recover deeply discharged AGM batteries. These are becoming more common, and they work well for all lead acid batteries. They have the additional capability of doubling as a battery "maintainer" for vehicle storage. Some come with additional wiring to permanently attach leads from your battery to an accessible spot on your vehicle. This makes it easy to hook up when you store your car, truck, boat or RV.
OPTIMA Batteries does not officially endorse specific chargers—we simply don't have the time to test all of the excellent chargers on the market. There are a few that our customers and staff have tried and liked. You can contact OPTIMA Batteries Customer Service at 888-8-OPTIMA (888-867-8462) or via email at info@optimabatteries.com for charger recommendations based on different applications.
Recovery Option #2: The DIY Solution
This is a recovery method for the do-it-yourselfer using the equipment you've got in the garage. With this option, you're going to trick your charger into charging the deeply discharged AGM battery.
Here's what you need:

  • Battery charger
  • Jumper cables
  • A good battery, preferably above 12.2 volts (It can be an AGM or flooded battery, it doesn't matter.)
  • The seemingly dead, deeply discharged AGM battery
  • A watch or timer
Now, here's what you do:

  1. Hook up the good battery and deeply discharged AGM battery in parallel—positive to positive and negative to negative. Do not have the charger connected to the battery or turned on at this stage.
  2. Now, hook up the good battery to the charger. Turn on the charger. The charger will "see" the voltage of the good battery, and start providing a charge.
  3. After the batteries have been hooked up for about an hour, check to see if the AGM battery is slightly warm or hot to the touch. Batteries naturally become warm during charging, but excessive heat may be an indication that there really is something wrong with the battery. Also discontinue the process if you hear the battery "gassing"—a hissing sound coming from the safety valves. If it's hot or gassing, STOP CHARGING IMMEDIATELY!
  4. Check back every hour to see if the AGM battery has charged to 10.5 volts or above. If it has, disconnect the charger from the wall outlet and remove the good battery from the charger. Now, connect only the deeply discharged AGM battery to the charger. Turn on the charger and continue until the AGM battery reaches a full charge, or until the automatic charger completes the charge process. In most cases, the AGM battery will be recovered.
Recovery Option #3: Enlist the Professionals
If you don't own a battery charger, you don't want to make the investment, or you're not the do-it-yourself kind of guy, this is the option for you.
Take the battery to a professional battery specialist who knows AGM technology. Most specialists are willing to provide "charge and check" procedures free or for a small fee. Auto parts stores are typically not capable of accurately determining an AGM battery's condition, and many use conductance testers that don't provide correct readings. Battery specialists like Interstate Batteries and other independent battery distributors are experts who can help determine if your battery is recoverable or not.
 
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Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,836
987
113
Location
Paris KY
I'm running a yellow in front and a blue marine in back. I changed the front battery tray to a civilian tray to provide clearance for the fresh air pipe (not yet installed). The front yellow has side and top terminals which make it easy to attach accessories. I used these side terminals to hook up a new headlight harness to power my new Hellas. Also installed a new Solargizer to keep things topped off.
 

Attachments

DonK

New member
92
0
0
Location
Social Circle,GA
Installed two red top optima batteries and adapters in my m1009 on 8-11-11 and one has already crapped out. Under warranty for now, inerstate said the cold weather really affects them. Well it is nothing but cold here now. Pulled them out and put duralast golds in no more getting stranded. The alternators are working fine that was first thing I checked. From what I see people either love them or hate them. Anyone else had any problems with them?
Ok...here's my 2cents...
I series a couple of SC34M "Blue Top" Optimas and haven't had ANY trouble. I do have a Trickle Charger but rarely use it. I placed them on the front stock battery stand, to help with room around the Fuel Filter area for a future mod, and love it.
I have also used the Odyessey Batteries in the past and would use them again.
And now, Exide has the Orbital Battery.....
Most of the Flooded Batteries mentioned in the thread are just as good, but you need to consider the application. A flooded Battery has a heck of a time working upside down....
BTW - You can Air Freight an Optima....that may be TMI...
 
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