Options for a Snapped U-joint and Damaged Shaft End

[stanzuray]

ehuppert - Thanks - Getting close to knowing what I need and where to get it. Checked out Denny's and they need to know if shaft is 30 or 35 tooth spline.

Also Anyone: need some help with TM's (this has been the case before so I'm missing something I know (my brain I know). So go to what I think is correct TM (p series for my M1031) (1st picture). Then to FIGURE/diagram 76. FRONT AXLE COMPONENT PARTS AND SPINDLE ASSEMBLIES(see picture 2) showing my shafts (#7 and #9). Then to the the figure/diagram x reference for the part numbers and it doesn't show a 7 or a 9 (picture 3). Picture 4 is the diagram parts and no shafts listed?. Got a feeling I'm going to feel stupid here but this has happened before looking for TM part numbers and it's time for someone to point out the obvious to me. I hate to ask questions I should be able to figure for myself. Help. Stan

 

[ehuppert]

Seeing as how i was a 63b (mechanic) before computers i might have a clue....haha Go the the 34p TM! The 20p is organizational!

 

[Jbulach]

My experience with breaking u-joints, if your in abusive high load conditions, you want to avoid the the u-joints with the grease fittings in the cross. Go with either a non greasable, or a good brand with the fitting in the cap.

Or if your really abusive, get one of the many, fancy new high strength, high dollar joints on the market.

Ive had reasonable results from repairing ears as well as broken shafts for temporary use or spares. When you get good at breaking them, you also get fast at swapping them out!

 

[stanzuray]

Good to know about greaseable ujoints. In my case the ujoint was the initial problem. Thanks

My experience with breaking u-joints, if your in abusive high load conditions, you want to avoid the the u-joints with the grease fittings in the cross. Go with either a non greasable, or a good brand with the fitting in the cap.

Or if your really abusive, get one of the many, fancy new high strength, high dollar joints on the market.

Ive had reasonable results from repairing ears as well as broken shafts for temporary use or spares. When you get good at breaking them, you also get fast at swapping them out!

 

[stanzuray]

Seeing as how i was a 63b (mechanic) before computers i might have a clue....haha Go the the 34p TM! The 20p is organizational!

Years back I downloaded every manual and TM I could find so had the 34P - just once I saw the 20P never went any further. Having the parts numbers like this changes everything. I found a place in Fairbanks that will can order these parts and shafts now, pretty reasonable price (Young's Gear and Driveline). Getting parts from now on will be a pleasure. Thank you so much for showing me where I was being stupid. Stan

 

[Jbulach]

Yeh, after breaking a bunch I found out, then I started breaking shafts in the same spot as Chris (post 20) as well as joints. I found some longer shafts, cut them down and had Moser respline them without that narrowed relief in them that solved the shaft problem, but I still broke an occasional joint. Biggest thing was I got used to knowing immediately when I broke them, and would stop and throw one of my beat up spares in, before I beat my ears up any worse.

Glad I don’t play with this vehicle or go to Haspin as much anymore. This was 20-25 years ago before most of the cool high strength aftermarket axles and joints where available.

 

[ehuppert]

Stan, It's called learning, not stupid!

If you do put in non-grease-able joints make sure you add some grease in the cross and cups. A lot of joints, bearings, etc come new with not much grease in them. Gone so far as to pull seals from new bearings and add grease. Not sure if they're saving on grease or want it to wear out faster. For normal use greaseable joints and factory shafts are plenty strong enough. If you're wheeling or really hammering that may be a different story.
When we got CUCVs in the mid-eighties i worked in the mnt shop..... These things got beat on unmercifully by soldiers that didn't know and or didn't care. Didn't have a whole lot of catastrophic failures, but they were also new!

 

[stanzuray]

I have assembled all the parts needed for drivers side axle repair and will be replacing both axle parts, u joint, all seals and deflectors etc. Was printing out the TM diagrams and repair pages that apply and came up with a few pages from TM9 2320 289 34 and 34P. Am I missing any others.
Also anyone know of the best civilian shop manual for my CUCV if any exist that go into more detail and "pictures" specific to K30 1 tons. Thanks, Stan

 

[cucvrus]

Get a Genuine GM Shop manual for 1984 C/K10-30. It covers everything in easy step by step procedures. 1985/1986/1987/will also cover the procedures. A few things cosmetic body and wiper system are different. All the way up to 1991 they made the 1 ton cab chassis/Suburban/ K5 blazer in the older body style. They referred to them as V10-V30 during that period. Gets confusing when a customer says they have a 1987 V10 pick-up. I picked up a few of the old shop manuals when a local dealer when out of business. Good Luck. eBay may be a good place to look.

 

[stanzuray]

Thanks CUCVRUS Just need to not be ordering something that was no better than the TM's as detail and pictures. Stan

 

[cucvrus]

I may be having a Dana 60 parts axle here at the shop soon. I have my bid in on an M1008 that has the front axle busted. Wonder where that would be coming from? HA. Let me know if you need any of them parts. Have a Great Day.